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Old 11-13-2014, 06:24 AM   #15
1ofaKind
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Dam bro sucks it melted it down a bit, you should of wrapped the headers.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:58 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by 1ofaKind View Post
Dam bro sucks it melted it down a bit, you should of wrapped the headers.
I've seen header wrap cause too many fires and rust to be comfortable with it on my car. The manifold is ceramic coated but apparently that wasn't enough. Doing it again, I'd put some gold reflective tape on the underside of the intake.

Can't say I'm surprised, noticed IATs climb to the 70s once while I was waiting in the queue at an autocross

Last edited by Decay107; 12-05-2014 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 12-07-2014, 02:06 AM   #17
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Running the car without the primary resonator end up giving some pretty high LTFTs at low RPMs around -10 or so. Today I did a bit of work to stop the resonator from melting

First I added some gold reflective tape


But just on the bottom so it still looks pretty clean up top


And added a pop clip for easy removal in the future


This should stop the plastic from melting any further
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Old 12-07-2014, 02:14 AM   #18
themadscientist
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Nice car and enjoying the mods. the heat shield rear tray was clever. That header, though. Packaging the manifold on the flat fours is a real PITA, but to bring it up in front of the engine like that where it can radiate all that heat can't be the best approach. You couldn't fit Bill Clinton's definition of "is" between the tubing and your crank pulley.
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Old 12-07-2014, 02:29 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by themadscientist View Post
Nice car and enjoying the mods. the heat shield rear tray was clever. That header, though. Packaging the manifold on the flat fours is a real PITA, but to bring it up in front of the engine like that where it can radiate all that heat can't be the best approach. You couldn't fit Bill Clinton's definition of "is" between the tubing and your crank pulley.
Thanks!

Yeah, unfortunately its the only way I've seen which allows for long enough runners to achieve a nice mid range torque boost. It seems to work pretty well for most of the turbo guys without many melting issues, but none of them re-use the stock airbox.

Clearance to the crank pulley isn't as bad as it appears in this picture, but it is close. The manifold actually kind of goes around the outside of the CP if viewed from the front and ends up closer to the fans than the block.

Last edited by Decay107; 05-27-2015 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 12-14-2014, 04:01 PM   #20
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Winter mode activate! Only took me a quick drive a few days ago to realize how useless the AD08s are in the cold/wet. I threw a plasti dipped set of OEM wheels and tires I picked up pretty cheap.


Not a huge fan of the plasti dip, but I'm far too lazy to remove it all. Yes they are in fact Subaru wheels, no I'm not going to bother cleaning them (can't really figure out how to do it on plasti dip anyway).



And here is my custom "oil cooler block off plate". I've found that my oil tends to run too cold in the winter despite having a thermostatically controlled oil cooler kit, this lets it get nice and toasty even if I'm just driving around town.

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Old 01-28-2015, 09:52 PM   #21
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LCAs came in today




And the list of things that need to occur before the track season starts up

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Old 02-27-2015, 01:58 AM   #22
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Took a quick spin in Ultramaroon's car today with the clutch slave cylinder modification, bought one about an hour later after arriving back home. Totally removes the Fischer Price feeling from the clutch.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77390
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Old 02-28-2015, 09:34 PM   #23
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Installed my control arms today. Still need an alignment, but I roughed it in pretty well with a set of calipers



Also just found out that MCA was chosen as the spec damper for the Australian 86 PRO-AM series, which means I can now say I have racing suspension
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:38 AM   #24
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So, busy week this week. The SPL arms I received did not have enough camber adjustment available for my rally-stance car. The guys at SPL (specifically Pat) express shipped me some extended adjusters, and some extended heim joints just in case the adjustment screws were not enough. Great folks to deal with!

I got aligned and the setup I'll be running this year are
(at basically stock height)
-3.1 per side front camber
0 toe
-1.7 per side rear camber
.04* toe in

Brake fluid changed out and Project Mu Club racers installed, no impressions yet as they have not been up to proper operating temperature. I also removed the speed bleeders, pretty sure they were letting air into the system and I probably need to reapply the thread sealant before they work again.

I got an updated nameless front pipe with the new spherical resonance chamber, sounds far less raspy than the old can style. I can actually rev the car out on public roads again without feeling like an ass.

First track day of the season is this Saturday!
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Old 03-26-2015, 01:12 AM   #25
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Ordered a larger oil cooler core and I plan to prototype some ducting to make it more effective. Target oil temp is 220 max during a 20 minute session. Might also design a blank off plate for winter driving, I've found that even with a thermostatic takeoff plate, most air to oil radiators overcool in the winter.
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:28 AM   #26
Takumi788
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Garage
Loving your build. Sub'd for updates
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- #813 2013 Scion FRS Build Thread
- JHerbert Racing Website
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Decay107 (04-07-2015)
Old 04-07-2015, 12:52 AM   #27
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Well two track weekends in a row down. New brakes are doing the trick perfectly, as I'm now running out of tire well before I run out of brakes. It's been cool (mid 60's) so the current set up isn't having any heat issues at all, saw oil temps stable around 220 for a full 40 minute session this past weekend.






Played for a bit with an R1 powered Lotus Seven before he totally walked away from me. Little more power and tire and I'd have had him

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Old 04-07-2015, 01:31 AM   #28
akahenry
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Hey man! How did you like your Muffled Track Pipe with the rest of your exhaust setup? Was it unbearable or annoying whatsoever? Was there drone?! :O
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