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Old 08-27-2014, 06:42 PM   #589
WazzuGrad
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400 miles later, no noise yet.
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:39 PM   #590
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Noise is back on. If i drive longer than an hour, i can hear it in the cabin.

This is very frustrating.
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Old 10-07-2014, 11:26 PM   #591
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Hello all, here's my story:
2014 scion frs purchased April 3rd at 12 miles.
Currently: 12.2k miles average mpg: 26.5mpg
Mods: greddy intake and evo 3 and tien s type springs @9.5 k miles.

<Car has had throttle dip, chirping, violent idol since I bought it. >

>>10/2/2014: 12.2kmiles cel and trac light come on.

>>10/3/2014 dealer visit: states, bad fuel pump or car sucking too much air due to intake....order new fuel pump, was told car is fine to drive in and running properly.
>>10/5/2014 parts arrive dealer says it's going to take longer than they expected and there working on it but it will take untill tomorrow,
>>10/6/2014 pick up car with new fuel pump, was told they cannot seem to fix issue and reccomebd replacing stock parts (which I still have) or purchase a ecu flash chip to calibrate engine for modded parts, car is good to drive and runs smoothly, just cannot get cel off....
Car feels diffrent, feels very groggy, as if it has asthma all of a sudden....
>>10/7/2014 @12.2k miles , 9:34 pm. While rolling into first off a red light, car makes loud bang in engine bay near driver wheel. Then immidiatly drops power....
>>10/7/2014 10:25 pm...I'm standing in a parking lot waiting for a tow truck to haul her back to the dealer and d and now am posting this......I will keep you all updated as the situation unfolds
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:45 PM   #592
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Update!
>>10/8/2014 11am: receive call from dealer, says reason engine cut out and source of the problems is a blown fuse(does a blown fuse cause the engine to die?)caused by after market wiring of a Viper 4108 remote start I had installed professionally by geeK squad back in early June and have had no issues what so ever.
(Dealer confirmed aftermarket intake and exhaust are irrelevant to the problem )
>> car being toed to best buy to remove viper remote start and return everything to stock. Which is covered under warrenty....Will keep updating
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Old 10-09-2014, 06:30 PM   #593
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>best buy auto tech (who happens to be a very close friend of mine and personally installed the viper to begin with)tested and confirmed the fuse in the fuel pump blows every time car ignited.....but has nothing to do with viper alarm....but to please dealer uninstall everything and revert to factory (with exception of suspension springs)--> issue persists confirming issue lies within install of new fuel pump....

>called dealer covering cost of 3rd tow back to dealer so they can fix.
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:42 PM   #594
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>>10/10/2014 dealer working on car for 8+ hours now still have no idea what is causing short....Also finally approved me for a rental...'13 automatic corola s....fml at least is has downforce bro!
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Old 10-11-2014, 09:15 PM   #595
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GMB4, sounds like a very shitty situation! Keep us updated.

I know that your still within the 3/36 warranty, but that's exactly the reason i purchased extended warranty...there cars are a blast to drive. But sure have lots of issues!
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Old 12-12-2014, 08:53 PM   #596
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Last Friday I was driving to Tallahassee from Orlando in my '13 FrS. I was using cruise control at 71 miles an hour, everything was going well. Unfortunately, about 60 miles from Tallahassee, the car shuddered violently and displayed the check engine light and slip light simultaneously. Luckily this happened right next to a rest area so I coasted in and found a spot. When I stopped, before shifting to P, I noticed the engine was revving wildly. The revs would fluctuate between 500-1200 RPM and the car would lurch about as well. Oil was fine (recently replaced,) the coolant was fine, the engine didn't seem to be very hot, I couldn't really determine the issue.
Well, the car had trouble starting (took twice as long as usual, occasionally would not start) and also had no power at all in drive (automatic transmission.) Curiously, the car was fine in reverse.
I was quite perplexed as the car is essentially new, I bought it with around 2,000 miles on it from the local dealer and it now has close to 3,800.
I had the car towed to the dealer, and the next day the service consultant told me that there was an issue with the intake manifold (or something similar, I can't remember what exactly he said.) They are replacing it, but the part is on backorder.
Well, the car has been in the shop for about a week now, and I am unsure as to when I will see it again. Just thought I would post this here to potentially get some insight on the problem.
Edit: It's worth noting that the car is not drive-able, has no power whatsoever.

Last edited by AurumReichert; 12-12-2014 at 08:58 PM. Reason: Listed
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:59 PM   #597
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Registered to post this:
Last Friday I was driving to Tallahassee from Orlando in my '13 FrS. I was using cruise control at 71 miles an hour, everything was going well. Unfortunately, about 60 miles from Tallahassee, the car shuddered violently and displayed the check engine light and slip light simultaneously. Luckily this happened right next to a rest area so I coasted in and found a spot. When I stopped, before shifting to P, I noticed the engine was revving wildly. The revs would fluctuate between 500-1200 RPM and the car would lurch about as well. Oil was fine (recently replaced,) the coolant was fine, the engine didn't seem to be very hot, I couldn't really determine the issue.
Well, the car had trouble starting (took twice as long as usual, occasionally would not start) and also had no power at all in drive (automatic transmission.) Curiously, the car was fine in reverse.
I was quite perplexed as the car is essentially new, I bought it with around 2,000 miles on it from the local dealer and it now has close to 3,800.
I had the car towed to the dealer, and the next day the service consultant told me that there was an issue with the intake manifold (or something similar, I can't remember what exactly he said.) They are replacing it, but the part is on backorder.
Well, the car has been in the shop for about a week now, and I am unsure as to when I will see it again. Just thought I would post this here to potentially get some insight on the problem.
Edit: It's worth noting that the car is not drive-able, has no power whatsoever.

Man, sorry to hear! I guess this is why Consumer Reports has a big black dot for reliability on the twins. I have the '13 BRZ and am just waiting for something to happen.


Anyway, have been on this forum since 2012 and do not remember reading about problems with the "intake manifold" as your dealer reported. Some early 2013s did have issues with the Cams not working right making the car not drivable. I wonder if this is what is going on.


Please keep us updated. Maybe someone else has an idea.


I assume your car is stock?
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:38 PM   #598
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Man, sorry to hear! I guess this is why Consumer Reports has a big black dot for reliability on the twins. I have the '13 BRZ and am just waiting for something to happen.


Anyway, have been on this forum since 2012 and do not remember reading about problems with the "intake manifold" as your dealer reported. Some early 2013s did have issues with the Cams not working right making the car not drivable. I wonder if this is what is going on.


Please keep us updated. Maybe someone else has an idea.


I assume your car is stock?
I was merely guessing, stopped by the dealer today and they had somehow managed to replace the throttle body even though it was on backorder. After that they figured out that the ECM needs a replace as well, said it should be done by Monday. Hoping this will be the band-aid that the car needs
The car is indeed stock.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:02 PM   #599
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What happens if the car 25,000 warranty is over and now I have these issues do I have to come out of pocket to get parts replaced or will scion take care of it for me.
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Old 12-14-2014, 08:11 PM   #600
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What happens if the car 25,000 warranty is over and now I have these issues do I have to come out of pocket to get parts replaced or will scion take care of it for me.
I've never heard of a 25k warranty. I know of a factory 36k/3year, and then there are options of upgrading to many other scenarios. I chose a 100k/7year platinum plan.

I could be wrong, but the 36k/3year is factory warranty and its not dependable of dealership. So i'm guessing your still covered.
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:13 PM   #601
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All 2013 FRS and BRZ has ECU issues. Car idle rough and stall and VSC and CHECK ENGINE light up. More than 200 cases repoted and Toyota DO NOT want to address this issue. Computer (ECU) must be replaced with the latest version. Everytime I have VSC and check engine I need to desconnect battery for 5 minutes and connected back again to get rid of the lights. Also keed the engine at 1000 RPM minimun otherwise will stall and check engine will light up again. Be carefull what dealers tells you, they want to replace OCVs, Camshaft Sensors, etc etc and want the owner to PAY!!!. No, the problem is the ECU. We need to force Toyota to issue a recall. Or collect signature from all the 200 cases and issue a Class Action Lawsuit.
The major problem created by a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT in this car, is that the computer will cut the power by 50%, otherwise I will keep driving the car will all LIGHTS ON.
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:13 PM   #602
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All 2013 FRS and BRZ has ECU issues. Car idle rough and stall and VSC and CHECK ENGINE light up. More than 200 cases repoted and Toyota DO NOT want to address this issue. Computer (ECU) must be replaced with the latest version. Everytime I have VSC and check engine I need to desconnect battery for 5 minutes and connected back again to get rid of the lights. Also keed the engine at 1000 RPM minimun otherwise will stall and check engine will light up again. Be carefull what dealers tells you, they want to replace OCVs, Camshaft Sensors, etc etc and want the owner to PAY!!!. No, the problem is the ECU. We need to force Toyota to issue a recall. Or collect signature from all the 200 cases and issue a Class Action Lawsuit.
The major problem created by a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT in this car, is that the computer will cut the power by 50%, otherwise I will keep driving the car will all LIGHTS ON.
Have you ever tried... reading out the codes when you get a CEL?
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