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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 01-27-2020, 02:24 PM   #15
SuperTom
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I'll say Ive been on my DT Ace 350 setup for 2 years now with no problems at all. And the turn around time was great on the tunes.


- Have you looked into the Racer-X intake manifold, looks like it has potential but needs a good tune?


- I see you listed the Full Blown Motorsports intake manifold. Is that for FI only or is there NA gains with it.


Im looking to get as much NA power as possible and still remain streetable.
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Old 01-27-2020, 02:26 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by DeliciousTuning View Post
Not fair.

The idea is to try and keep with the stock engine as long as possible. Then if we need to upgrade it a bit, such as head work.
I think there's a ton of the road course guys (including me) that would be 100% in for a lightly opened FA20 that produced 250-260 HP with a ~8K redline. Reliability is huge for road racing, hence why a lot of us want to stay as far away from FI as we can.

Thinking just ported heads and cams or something a bit more involved? Maybe valvetrain and oil pump for the extra bit of revs
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Old 01-27-2020, 03:09 PM   #17
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I think there's a ton of the road course guys (including me) that would be 100% in for a lightly opened FA20 that produced 250-260 HP with a ~8K redline. Reliability is huge for road racing, hence why a lot of us want to stay as far away from FI as we can.

Thinking just ported heads and cams or something a bit more involved? Maybe valvetrain and oil pump for the extra bit of revs
This is MEEEE!!! Dont want to go FI, but need more umph to get to my allowed 12:1 hp / lb. There just isnt enough weight to cut out of the car at this point to get there...but all the FI TT / ST guys I know are on engines # 2 #3 or 4.
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Old 01-27-2020, 03:10 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by SuperTom View Post
I'll say Ive been on my DT Ace 350 setup for 2 years now with no problems at all. And the turn around time was great on the tunes.

Im looking to get as much NA power as possible and still remain streetable.
^^ I echo his sentiments. DT has been great to me, and would love to see you guys bring some more NA power to the table!
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Old 01-27-2020, 03:21 PM   #19
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I think there's a ton of the road course guys (including me) that would be 100% in for a lightly opened FA20 that produced 250-260 HP with a ~8K redline. Reliability is huge for road racing, hence why a lot of us want to stay as far away from FI as we can.

Thinking just ported heads and cams or something a bit more involved? Maybe valvetrain and oil pump for the extra bit of revs
Youd need a 2.3L stroked short block, paired with something like element tunings “big valve head,” cams, ace 150 header, ITBs or a manifold designed around high rpm efficiency so maybe shorter runners. on E85 rev to at least 8k and i could see 250whp possible on a friendly dyno probably closer to 230-240whp on most dynos.
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Old 01-27-2020, 03:22 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by DeliciousTuning View Post
We have tuned quite a few of them, so there is good and bad on these. Based on stock intake manifolds.

The good, they help the midrange quite a bit, by increasing the torque through 6K RPM.

The bad, they hurt the top end since the runners have become too long, in turn hurting power above 6500 RPM's.

For daily driving, might be nice, but for all out power and top end they do hurt it a bit.

Yeah for non sustained high RPM use they seemed to help - they also do respond to further tuning once installed, you can recover some of the power loss at the very top with increased timing (apparently lower VE/cyl pressures in that range vs without them). Even for track use though I'd think they'd benefit in the 5000-6500 range - anyways just curious. Thanks for the reply
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Old 01-27-2020, 06:50 PM   #21
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You can swap in this beauty . Imho engine lighter then FA20, NA 356hp, 271Nm, redline 11600 should fit the bill.
I believe somebody in 86CUP is also running that engine as well. If money weren't an object, I would love to build an 86 track car with an engine like it.

On topic, interested to see how this goes!
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:08 PM   #22
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Youd need a 2.3L stroked short block, paired with something like element tunings “big valve head,” cams, ace 150 header, ITBs or a manifold designed around high rpm efficiency so maybe shorter runners. on E85 rev to at least 8k and i could see 250whp possible on a friendly dyno probably closer to 230-240whp on most dynos.
this.
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Old 01-27-2020, 08:52 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by KR-S 86 View Post
I believe somebody in 86CUP is also running that engine as well. If money weren't an object, I would love to build an 86 track car with an engine like it.

On topic, interested to see how this goes!
It sounds glorious. I seen't it.
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Old 01-27-2020, 09:54 PM   #24
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I have a bone stock 2018 BRZ. If I want to do an Ace A350 on an otherwise stock car what do I need to buy? Do I need to get the ProECU programming kit? Do I need to get the ECU connect programming kit? Does it matter? What about needing a license. The ECUtek website is not super clear on this.
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Old 01-27-2020, 10:10 PM   #25
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I have a bone stock 2018 BRZ. If I want to do an Ace A350 on an otherwise stock car what do I need to buy? Do I need to get the ProECU programming kit? Do I need to get the ECU connect programming kit? Does it matter? What about needing a license. The ECUtek website is not super clear on this.
Yeah the licensing crap can be confusing. I went the with package from Counterspace garage who gives you what you need. Counterspace, Ace, and Delicious all worked together on the tune/package
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Old 01-27-2020, 10:13 PM   #26
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I have a bone stock 2018 BRZ. If I want to do an Ace A350 on an otherwise stock car what do I need to buy? Do I need to get the ProECU programming kit? Do I need to get the ECU connect programming kit? Does it matter? What about needing a license. The ECUtek website is not super clear on this.
Go through counter space garage. Ask them. You'll start a 3 day shit show here with that question
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Old 01-28-2020, 12:36 AM   #27
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I have a bone stock 2018 BRZ. If I want to do an Ace A350 on an otherwise stock car what do I need to buy? Do I need to get the ProECU programming kit? Do I need to get the ECU connect programming kit? Does it matter? What about needing a license. The ECUtek website is not super clear on this.
In the past, a person would have needed the Ace 350, ECUTEK cable (proprietary OBD2 to USB cable) and dongle (usb key), ECUTEK license, Delicious or other tuner’s tune. ECUTEK cable n dongle could be bought new or used, but the dongle is useless without the cable and vice versa. The license is coded to the ECU and is not transferable to another car/ECU. Same with the tune.

ECUTEK released the Bluetooth connect, which allowed for live monitoring and modifications.

I believe the ECUTEK cable and dongle can still be purchased, but it has also been replaced by the ECU connect and will likely phase out the old system or it will only be used by professional tuners. The ECU connect is like the Bluetooth connect unit, except it has a usb attachable cable for being able to reflash the ECU for tunes, as well as, coming with the needed key dongle. The good news is that you don’t need to purchase both, but for those of us that already have the old dongle, we would beed to buy the Bluetooth connect unit if we want to utilize it and the app. Lucky you.
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Old 01-29-2020, 10:45 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 View Post
Youd need a 2.3L stroked short block, paired with something like element tunings “big valve head,” cams, ace 150 header, ITBs or a manifold designed around high rpm efficiency so maybe shorter runners. on E85 rev to at least 8k and i could see 250whp possible on a friendly dyno probably closer to 230-240whp on most dynos.
Maybe. We'll see what Bill has in store for us later. I would really like a solution that doesn't touch the bottom end. Honestly any solution that doesn't require machining would be preferable. If we can figure out a reliable solution to increasing the rev limit while keeping the torque from dropping off, there's a good bit of horsepower increase right there.

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This is MEEEE!!! Dont want to go FI, but need more umph to get to my allowed 12:1 hp / lb. There just isnt enough weight to cut out of the car at this point to get there...but all the FI TT / ST guys I know are on engines # 2 #3 or 4.
Exactly. Literally every FI person I know that actually tracks these cars hard has had issues, whether it be heat management related or engine randomly externally venting itself related.
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