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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 01-03-2018, 05:17 PM   #127
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.
legit
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Old 01-03-2018, 09:26 PM   #128
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Get a big fucking oil cooler. I can hook you up with a bill of material for my setup but finding a diverter valve might be the tricky part. You wouldn't need it unless you daily yours.

I can maintain my engine oil temp below 190 F for an unlimited duty cycle. I cut back on the flow when I'm cruising.

http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab...ler-p-247.html
Thanks, already got an oil cooler.
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Old 01-03-2018, 09:27 PM   #129
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Now that's "Old School"
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:39 PM   #130
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Thanks, already got an oil cooler.
Not big enough.
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Old 12-07-2019, 01:38 PM   #131
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I have a question, so I just rebuilt my motor, I'm running a JDL turbo kit with the RS ball bearing 2860, I've got the Jackson racing oil cooler, no crazy oiling mods engine build consisted of all new OEM cams/gears/pistons/rings/main+rod bearings, WRX DIT rods, supertech valve train with Kelford springs, and killer B pickup tube... Using 0w30 oil (LiquiMoly)

All bearing clearances matched to factory spec, all cam journal clearances verified to be within factory spec (and not much if any variation between em)

Subaru spec on oil pressure is (at 80C/176F) 7.3psi at idle and 73psi at 6000 RPM.

I'm getting about 10psi at idle, and I only ever see above 40psi during cold start, and cold start I see about 98psi. All vvt working normally, doesn't matter if I rev to 6000 stationary neutral or driving with load, it never really goes much above 40psi.

Wtf? I'm scared to drive it above 4000rpm... Do I need a new oil pump? There was no scoring or anything and I took all the backing plates off to clear out passages... And fully tightened screws back down.

Any input is welcome, as a new timing cover my cost is about 350 (Subaru master tech)

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Old 12-07-2019, 05:41 PM   #132
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10 psi idling at test temp is a bit low. It sounds like an internal leak. Look especially at the o-rings between the front cover and block. Maybe the chain tensioners? Perhaps the bypass valve is leaking.

We're neighbors. I'm seeing 120 PSI at cold start. It's about 115 in the summer mornings.
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Old 12-07-2019, 08:53 PM   #133
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10 psi idling at test temp is a bit low. It sounds like an internal leak. Look especially at the o-rings between the front cover and block. Maybe the chain tensioners? Perhaps the bypass valve is leaking.

We're neighbors. I'm seeing 120 PSI at cold start. It's about 115 in the summer mornings.
I was thinking bypass valve leaking, I couldn't imagine the orings leaking without having catastrophic events occur, vvt malfunctions if orings to heads leaking or rod knock if oring to block leaking.

Idk, I guess I'll just buy the new oil pump. I've spent way too much money on this thing already to let it blow up over not wanting to spend an additional $350.... I guess I was just hoping for some kind of confirmation. And heck while I'm at it I think I'm gonna grab a 15mm oil pump gear as posted about in another thread by "solidsnake11", as it would be even larger than the Reimax kit currently available I'd just have to get aspacer made which is no big deal

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Old 12-08-2019, 12:08 AM   #134
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Originally Posted by Ricks919 View Post
I have a question, so I just rebuilt my motor, I'm running a JDL turbo kit with the RS ball bearing 2860, I've got the Jackson racing oil cooler, no crazy oiling mods engine build consisted of all new OEM cams/gears/pistons/rings/main+rod bearings, WRX DIT rods, supertech valve train with Kelford springs, and killer B pickup tube... Using 0w30 oil (LiquiMoly)

All bearing clearances matched to factory spec, all cam journal clearances verified to be within factory spec (and not much if any variation between em)

Subaru spec on oil pressure is (at 80C/176F) 7.3psi at idle and 73psi at 6000 RPM.

I'm getting about 10psi at idle, and I only ever see above 40psi during cold start, and cold start I see about 98psi. All vvt working normally, doesn't matter if I rev to 6000 stationary neutral or driving with load, it never really goes much above 40psi.

Wtf? I'm scared to drive it above 4000rpm... Do I need a new oil pump? There was no scoring or anything and I took all the backing plates off to clear out passages... And fully tightened screws back down.

Any input is welcome, as a new timing cover my cost is about 350 (Subaru master tech)

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Something isn't right. I think there is two springs in the bypass did you reinstall both?

First thing I would do is take oil cooler adaptor off.
Next buy mechanical gauge.
Next would be unfortunately pull motor again.

My flange at one of my tensioners had a dent in the side and pushed a hump in the face. Which made an internal leak I didn't catch the first time. I used a file and file to flatten it back.

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Old 12-09-2019, 09:21 PM   #135
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Issue resolved. Oil cooler plugged up with debris from old motor (crazy catastrophic failure)

Still going to get a timing cover together with the big oil pump gears but no longer in any rush to do so & car has become safely driveable again, just no oil cooler...... For now. Good thing is the coolest time of the year

Thanks @Ultramaroon & @solidsnake11 for ya help.

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Old 12-09-2019, 10:56 PM   #136
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Issue resolved. Oil cooler plugged up with debris from old motor (crazy catastrophic failure)

Still going to get a timing cover together with the big oil pump gears but no longer in any rush to do so & car has become safely driveable again, just no oil cooler...... For now. Good thing is the coolest time of the year

Thanks @Ultramaroon & @solidsnake11 for ya help.

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That's great!!!! And you didn't have to pull the engine!!!
Glad to Help.
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Old 12-09-2019, 11:15 PM   #137
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Issue resolved. Oil cooler plugged up with debris from old motor (crazy catastrophic failure)

Still going to get a timing cover together with the big oil pump gears but no longer in any rush to do so & car has become safely driveable again, just no oil cooler...... For now. Good thing is the coolest time of the year

Thanks @Ultramaroon & @solidsnake11 for ya help.
Yikes! Glad you found it! Change oil and filter now, IMHO.
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Old 12-10-2019, 09:26 PM   #138
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Yikes! Glad you found it! Change oil and filter now, IMHO.
Way ahead of ya. Knowing that pressure never rose above 40psi once warm, I been keeping rpms low (plus engine break in) so I think it'll be fine. Stopped driving it once I established a pattern, unhooked cooler & going to get a new one come spring time.

Also may still do this VQ oil pump upgrade, got sum parts on order for testing hopefully kind of double win for a car that's going to spend 90% of is future in high rpm skidz.

Appreciate you guy's help. For now car is drivable to continue e-tuning, and being coldest time of year I'm not sweatin it.... Now that my oil pressure is correct

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