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Old 07-26-2016, 12:46 PM   #2983
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Originally Posted by Bramick View Post
Does anyone make a replacement for this OEM part that is separate or part of an aftermarket sway bar setup? (I have a BRZ, but I'm assuming the FRS has the same part.)

Item #8

http://oemtoyotaparts.riverviewtoyot...omponents-scat
I don't know of an aftermarket part for that piece. Whiteline used to make a swaybar mount brace, but I'm not sure if it's available separately.

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Old 07-26-2016, 02:45 PM   #2984
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Hi. Im new here. Recovering S2k/Honda guy. Three questions:

1-Is it a common practice to disconnect the rear sway on this car to take advantage of more active droop?

2-what is the ideal droop (or "sag" in the motorcycle world) for this car on say, 7k springs with -20mm static ride height for the street?

3-On my RSX-S I rotated the front camber plates 90 degrees and set the shafts at the very back of the slots to achieve more caster (or more correctly SAI) and then just used crashbolts to get the negative camber i needed. Granted these are RWD and outside of tight AX, perhaps more caster isn't needed as badly, but has anyone here experimented with this (or is it even possible for the bolt pattern of the strut mounts?)

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!! I hope i haven't stumped you!!!11
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:09 PM   #2985
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Originally Posted by prj3ctm4yh3m View Post
Hi. Im new here. Recovering S2k/Honda guy. Three questions:

1-Is it a common practice to disconnect the rear sway on this car to take advantage of more active droop?

2-what is the ideal droop (or "sag" in the motorcycle world) for this car on say, 7k springs with -20mm static ride height for the street?

3-On my RSX-S I rotated the front camber plates 90 degrees and set the shafts at the very back of the slots to achieve more caster (or more correctly SAI) and then just used crashbolts to get the negative camber i needed. Granted these are RWD and outside of tight AX, perhaps more caster isn't needed as badly, but has anyone here experimented with this (or is it even possible for the bolt pattern of the strut mounts?)

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!! I hope i haven't stumped you!!!11
1. Few, if any, do this for droop. Some do it for balance or while trying different setups on but the bar generally ends up back on.

2. No idea, sorry. I worry more that available travel is enough, how I get there is secondary.

3. Oh, you had a Type S and tried to better the suspension? Sorry to hear. Certain camber plate options for the FRS allow you to mount different ways to make camber or caster adjustable, while making sure the static setting is as large as can be. Nearly everyone I know prefers to use the plates to adjust camber. I think with crash bolts plus a shock with slotted mounting holes you can maybe get enough camber, but it's doubtful in my opinion. The geometry just isn't very friendly to that approach.
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:50 PM   #2986
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Originally Posted by prj3ctm4yh3m View Post
Hi. Im new here. Recovering S2k/Honda guy. Three questions:
1. Most people around here aren't as concerned with droop as they are with compression travel. If the rear sway is unhooked it's for balance as it does not inhibit suspension travel in any way.

2. As above, I don't think about suspension setup that way and I don't think many around here do. We generally set static ride height as desired and the rest of the suspension lands where it does. I can't really wrap my head around the preload/height adjustable setups, seems to me you'd always maximize travel in the needed direction (on this car, compression) and set your ride height as desired via spring perch height.

Sorry that's probably not helpful, I feel like I'm trying to mime a different language on that one, hopefully someone understands your perspective better.

3. I made a post about that over here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=1#post2713773

You could, but the car wants more camber.
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Old 07-27-2016, 12:55 AM   #2987
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1. Most people around here aren't as concerned with droop as they are with compression travel. ...
awesome thanks to both of you. positive travel is of course more important but i dont want to jack up the spring preload trying to get the damper to ride higher in the stroke (less static sag) if it is detrimental to unloaded/inside wheel traction (i.e. promotes wheel lifting).

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3. Oh, you had a Type S and tried to better the suspension? Sorry to hear.
those rear control arms were a joke. no doubt about it.
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Old 07-30-2016, 01:35 PM   #2988
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Are Roll Center Adjusters (taller lower frt ball joints) beneficial on this car at a 20mm drop?
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:56 PM   #2989
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Are Roll Center Adjusters (taller lower frt ball joints) beneficial on this car at a 20mm drop?
No, they start becoming more beneficial around 30mm and up.
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:33 PM   #2990
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I am currently using rsr club racer suspension. And i am thinking to change to rce t2 cause of 2 way ... is there real benefits on the track??before i dont wanna get the t2 cause i am thinking 2 way is hard to set up..but now i think 2 way is a lot better on track??thank for all the reply
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Old 08-20-2016, 06:46 AM   #2991
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@Racecomp Engineering since I know you guys are proponents of the rear UCA bushings can you guys confirm of they are STX legal for autox (ie no more metal then stock)? I dont have the stock bushings anymore to do a side by side comparison.
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Old 09-01-2016, 12:40 PM   #2992
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@Racecomp Engineering since I know you guys are proponents of the rear UCA bushings can you guys confirm of they are STX legal for autox (ie no more metal then stock)? I dont have the stock bushings anymore to do a side by side comparison.
bump. Do @CounterSpace Garage or @Racecomp Engineering know the answer?
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Old 09-02-2016, 03:00 PM   #2993
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bump. Do @CounterSpace Garage or @Racecomp Engineering know the answer?
Yes legal, sorry missed this the first time!

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Old 09-02-2016, 03:10 PM   #2994
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Yes legal, sorry missed this the first time!

- Andrew
No prob. I know the mentions dont always work. Thanks!
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:21 AM   #2995
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Looking for a quick explanation since I'm a noob.

At the track through hard corners I feel as though I cannot take them as fast as other 86 guys (using AIM solo data) without losing grip from the initial load transfer left to right or right to left (250lbs/in spring rate). Without changing the springs/shocks themselves, what would happen if I increase the strength of my whiteline front and rear sway from soft setting to hard setting? Would I lose my mechanical grip? Would it theoretically benefit me?
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Old 09-17-2016, 12:47 PM   #2996
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Originally Posted by Gliderx View Post
Looking for a quick explanation since I'm a noob.

At the track through hard corners I feel as though I cannot take them as fast as other 86 guys (using AIM solo data) without losing grip from the initial load transfer left to right or right to left (250lbs/in spring rate). Without changing the springs/shocks themselves, what would happen if I increase the strength of my whiteline front and rear sway from soft setting to hard setting? Would I lose my mechanical grip? Would it theoretically benefit me?
It should reduce the roll and so in theory keep the weight more evenly on all four tyres allowing them to work better I would imagine.

250lb springs are pretty soft for track use so you probably are getting a lot of weight shifting around.

When I was on tein flex a's with 6kg (350lb) springs I ran the rear and front Whiteline bars on their stiffest position but still found it a little soft.
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