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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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02-10-2018, 08:59 PM | #43 | |
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Another issue is tires. If you plan to or want the option to swap tires at the track, it's possible to be self-contained with the BRZ for wheels / tires / tools. With a Miata, you're looking at dragging along a Harbor Freight trailer. Brake pads are another issue... depending on what setup you want to run, swapping rear pads on the BRZ is MUCH easier than a Miata. The parking brake function is via a drum configuration with the rear rotor, so it's able to use a caliper style similar to the front, which makes rear pad swaps easy and a matter of seconds - literally. If my need were to drive the car to and from the track, a twin / 86 is hard to beat and an easy choice. I didn't pick up an NC Miata because I don't like the BRZ... I love the car. I got the NC because it was too good to pass up and I'd been looking for exactly this scenario for a few years now. The last Miata I owned before my NC was a '99. It was a great car, but there's no way I'd drive that to and from the track, compared to what I've experienced with the BRZ. I love both cars and now I have both. Have I mentioned that one day I hope to come across a deal on a "salvage" 86 car to gut, cage, etc?
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02-11-2018, 08:03 AM | #44 | |
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I hope to travel fairly far. MN does not have a glut of tracks, so I imagine a road trip or two each year to a different track (perhaps alone, perhaps with son). Maybe actually see some of this country... |
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02-11-2018, 03:05 PM | #45 | |
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As said before the Miata is cheaper to run, especially brake costs. I miss that, as well as it was easier to tow. My frs is about 9 sec faster around road America than my Miata was.
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02-11-2018, 08:37 PM | #46 | |
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http://www.sportscarmag-digital.com/...015?pg=22#pg22 had some misfire issues. To solve that, one tactic was to remove the hood at Sebring, in the summer, and see whether the misfire persisted. It didn't. So, after that hood vents were installed. Misfire problem solved... apparently it was heat related, I guess. If you compare the coil pack harness from a '13 BRZ to a '16, (which I have directly in cars side by side) the '16 coil pack harness is different... much more robust. Whatever the case, adding cooling to the '13 BRZ hood area solved the misfire issue. Also, a very reputable tuner has mentioned to me that that the '16 is a good one to get from a mechanical and ECU standpoint. There are some changes in the '17 ECU that are more challenging... Take that and my ignorance / heresay for what it's worth...
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02-12-2018, 07:02 AM | #47 | |
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02-12-2018, 09:25 AM | #48 | |
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I went through a big back and forth with my shop at the end of the season last year to see if it was even possible to swap the the wiring harness from a 2015+ car onto my MY2013, but they ultimately decided it could end up being an expensive and labor intensive experiment that didn't actually work. So I'm having hood vents installed. From what I've seen, they're only partially effective but after replacing the A1 pack 3 times (4x?) now, I guess this is the next step. I had the header ceramic coated last year and that didn't really help. FWIW, as it's part of the discussion, my car was built during the 3rd week of January 2013 and it DID have the updated tune from the factory. There was a a way to find out, I think the factory tune ended with a 1C or something--too lazy to look it up at the moment. So even mid 2013 cars should, in theory, avoid DI seal issues. But buying a newer car with the updated wiring harness is also something worth considering. |
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02-12-2018, 09:37 AM | #49 | |
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02-12-2018, 10:12 AM | #50 |
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02-12-2018, 10:12 AM | #51 | |
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I've done about a dozen trackdays since the warranty work and I haven't had the CEL return. |
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02-12-2018, 10:14 AM | #52 |
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02-12-2018, 11:19 AM | #53 | |
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FWIW, I think few people with the stock header suffer coil pack problems. It's usually a combination of: - After market header - Driving on track where the car is constantly pushing close to redline for extended periods. - Driving under those conditions with high ambient temperatures and high humidity. Fortunately the coil packs aren't hugely expensive. They're almost a consumable. But it's just a hassle. |
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02-12-2018, 11:22 AM | #54 | |
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So I'm hoping the combination of the coated header, hood vents and fresh plugs does the trick. |
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02-12-2018, 11:50 AM | #55 |
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I've had 2x coilpacks fail on my stock 2013 (12/12 build), I've only done 5x track days and then I started autocrossing, it was the track days that killed them, sustained high load high rpm driving like you mention (there's little humidity here). I haven't done a track day since swapping them to a newer part number, but I know there's skepticism that the newer parts on the '13-'14 cars are any more durable.
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02-12-2018, 12:38 PM | #56 | |
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