Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[WC-BRZ]

Some more questions for you guys:


- If I want to aim for 300-330whp, would I be using a high-boost pulley and would that be with the C30 or C38?


- Let's say I tune on water/meth plus 100 octane in the tank, is it possible to get my tuner to provide a backup map where output can be lowered in conjunction with lower-octane gas (i.e. I'm on a long road trip, for instance, and there is no 100 octane available and I'm out of water/meth!)....I know how map switching would work on a turbo with an EBC since you can just adjust the boost, but is this possible on a supercharger?


- Speaking of water/meth, I've noticed from pics that the JR inlet tube going into the TB is actually not a metal piece - is this correct? Would a water/meth nozzle be compatible with this rubber inlet tube?


(All of this is assuming that I have appropriate supporting exhaust and drivetrain modifications as well)


Thank you

[GrabTheWheel]

Originally Posted by WC-BRZ

Some more questions for you guys:


- If I want to aim for 300-330whp, would I be using a high-boost pulley and would that be with the C30 or C38?


- Let's say I tune on water/meth plus 100 octane in the tank, is it possible to get my tuner to provide a backup map where output can be lowered in conjunction with lower-octane gas (i.e. I'm on a long road trip, for instance, and there is no 100 octane available and I'm out of water/meth!)....I know how map switching would work on a turbo with an EBC since you can just adjust the boost, but is this possible on a supercharger?


- Speaking of water/meth, I've noticed from pics that the JR inlet tube going into the TB is actually not a metal piece - is this correct? Would a water/meth nozzle be compatible with this rubber inlet tube?


(All of this is assuming that I have appropriate supporting exhaust and drivetrain modifications as well)


Thank you

If you are dead set on making over 300 WHP and you do not have access to E85 do yourself a favor and just swap for a turbo. Will make things a lot easier. JRSC is for those who want to mimic the stock power band and don’t care about dyno numbers.

I don’t think there is a single supercharged 86 making 300 WHP without ethanol, at least on a realistic dyno.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by GrabTheWheel

If you are dead set on making over 300 WHP and you do not have access to E85 do yourself a favor and just swap for a turbo. Will make things a lot easier. JRSC is for those who want to mimic the stock power band and don’t care about dyno numbers.

I don’t think there is a single supercharged 86 making 300 WHP without ethanol, at least on a realistic dyno.

There are not many, but they exist. They have a built motor and run lower compression.

[mrg666]

Speedacademy reached ~320whp with upgrading C30 JRSC with HBP and injectors. I think you can add a bit more with ACE header. They did not rebuild the engine. Here is their Youtube link
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQPDTHxAbgA[/ame]

Originally Posted by WC-BRZ

Some more questions for you guys:


- If I want to aim for 300-330whp, would I be using a high-boost pulley and would that be with the C30 or C38?


- Let's say I tune on water/meth plus 100 octane in the tank, is it possible to get my tuner to provide a backup map where output can be lowered in conjunction with lower-octane gas (i.e. I'm on a long road trip, for instance, and there is no 100 octane available and I'm out of water/meth!)....I know how map switching would work on a turbo with an EBC since you can just adjust the boost, but is this possible on a supercharger?


- Speaking of water/meth, I've noticed from pics that the JR inlet tube going into the TB is actually not a metal piece - is this correct? Would a water/meth nozzle be compatible with this rubber inlet tube?


(All of this is assuming that I have appropriate supporting exhaust and drivetrain modifications as well)


Thank you

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by WC-BRZ

Some more questions for you guys:


- If I want to aim for 300-330whp, would I be using a high-boost pulley and would that be with the C30 or C38?


- Let's say I tune on water/meth plus 100 octane in the tank, is it possible to get my tuner to provide a backup map where output can be lowered in conjunction with lower-octane gas (i.e. I'm on a long road trip, for instance, and there is no 100 octane available and I'm out of water/meth!)....I know how map switching would work on a turbo with an EBC since you can just adjust the boost, but is this possible on a supercharger?


- Speaking of water/meth, I've noticed from pics that the JR inlet tube going into the TB is actually not a metal piece - is this correct? Would a water/meth nozzle be compatible with this rubber inlet tube?


(All of this is assuming that I have appropriate supporting exhaust and drivetrain modifications as well)


Thank you

People with HBP C30 + full bolt ons + E85 hit between 300-350whp depending on the dyno. 100 ron = 95.75 octane with a 49/51 water meth mix at the ideal cc/min spray amount should give you an effective octane close to E85 with a little better IAT cooling. I’d say 290-340whp wouldn’t be unreasonable depending on the dyno. This Is also the very top end of what you’d want to run without a built block. From my understanding the C30 + HBP makes about the same as C38 with normal pulley but more efficiently. The main reason to go C38 is if you plan on building your block using the HBP and trying to push 350-400whp depending on the dyno.

For octane you would need to fill up with a lower octane and get tuned for that octane and just map switch between higher and lower octane map manually if/when you have to switch octane. For WMI you can use a wmi failsafe wired to ecu and ecutek will automatically adjust tune to accommodate and run safely when you aren’t spray (out of methanol, pump stops working, hose clogged, system leaking, etc...)

I’m pretty sure the “pipe” in between the MAF and TB is plastic and just connected with rubber and clamps, if so you can tap it with a 1/8 npt.

If it is all actually rubber then I would get a TB spacer with a 1/8 npt threaded hole and use that, Or you could get or make some type of plastic or metal pipe and make your own.

[WC-BRZ]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

People with HBP C30 + full bolt ons + E85 hit between 300-350whp depending on the dyno. 100 ron = 95.75 octane with a 49/51 water meth mix at the ideal cc/min spray amount should give you an effective octane close to E85 with a little better IAT cooling. I’d say 290-340whp wouldn’t be unreasonable depending on the dyno. This Is also the very top end of what you’d want to run without a built block. From my understanding the C30 + HBP makes about the same as C38 with normal pulley but more efficiently. The main reason to go C38 is if you plan on building your block using the HBP and trying to push 350-400whp depending on the dyno.

For octane you would need to fill up with a lower octane and get tuned for that octane and just map switch between higher and lower octane map manually if/when you have to switch octane. For WMI you can use a wmi failsafe wired to ecu and ecutek will automatically adjust tune to accommodate and run safely when you aren’t spray (out of methanol, pump stops working, hose clogged, system leaking, etc...)

I’m pretty sure the “pipe” in between the MAF and TB is plastic and just connected with rubber and clamps, if so you can tap it with a 1/8 npt.

If it is all actually rubber then I would get a TB spacer with a 1/8 npt threaded hole and use that, Or you could get or make some type of plastic or metal pipe and make your own.

Yes, absolutely, understood the point RE tuning on lower octane. What I was trying to understand is that the "lower octane tune" would still be based on the pulley that comes with the C30 kit - I.e. the 9psi pulley?

So the lower octane tune wouldn't be based on lower boost it would just pull back ignition/timing? And still be running 9psi?

Whereas on a turbo setup you would most likely also bring down boost along with other parameters, correct?

Anyhow, when it comes down to actually doing this, I'm sure the tuner will explain everything but I wanted to make sure I'm thinking this through correctly at least and also wanted some feedback from others here

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by WC-BRZ

Yes, absolutely, understood the point RE tuning on lower octane. What I was trying to understand is that the "lower octane tune" would still be based on the pulley that comes with the C30 kit - I.e. the 9psi pulley?

So the lower octane tune wouldn't be based on lower boost it would just pull back ignition/timing? And still be running 9psi?

Whereas on a turbo setup you would most likely also bring down boost along with other parameters, correct?

Anyhow, when it comes down to actually doing this, I'm sure the tuner will explain everything but I wanted to make sure I'm thinking this through correctly at least and also wanted some feedback from others here

Yeah pretty much. Nothing wrong with running 11.5psi(HBP) on 98ron or 93 octane. Your tuner should be able to set it up pretty safely. Alternatively you could swap to normal pulley when you map switch if your really worried. Or get some boostane and take it with you on road trips. 1/3 bottle should get you back to or even higher then your normal octane.

[mistople]

I was wrapping up my install today and ran into a couple issues. Hoping you guys could help me out..

1) How does the stock plastic bottom radiator panel reattach to the frame once the intercooler is in there? For the life of me I couldn't find a way to make it fit. The intercooler simply pushes it down too far to the point where it has to be positioned at an angle to even try getting the 3 screws in.

2) How did you guys prime the Rotrex with compressed air? I have a compressor, but have no idea how to get a perfect seal on the top of the oil reservoir. I tried without luck to get oil through the system/leaking out of the "IN" banjo fitting.

3) I don't seem to be able to avoid rubbing between the throttle body inlet tube and the supercharger bracket. Any tricks to get more clearance?

[mistople]

Here's the panel referenced above. The intercooler setup seems to prevent it's ability to line up properly with the original bolt threads. Am I missing something obvious? I must be since I haven't heard of this being an issue before.

[D-rek07]

I was wrapping up my install today and ran into a couple issues. Hoping you guys could help me out..

1) How does the stock plastic bottom radiator panel reattach to the frame once the intercooler is in there? For the life of me I couldn't find a way to make it fit. The intercooler simply pushes it down too far to the point where it has to be positioned at an angle to even try getting the 3 screws in.

Did you have the spacer installed correctly on the passenger side? The one that the intercooler slides into underneath the crush bar? Mine was touching when I installed it but it bolted up okay

2) How did you guys prime the Rotrex with compressed air? I have a compressor, but have no idea how to get a perfect seal on the top of the oil reservoir. I tried without luck to get oil through the system/leaking out of the "IN" banjo fitting.

I was actually wondering this the other day. I installed mine a year ago but don't really remember how I did that.

3) I don't seem to be able to avoid rubbing between the throttle body inlet tube and the supercharger bracket. Any tricks to get more clearance?

I cut about a 1/4" off the side of the that goes against the throttle body to pull it towards the throttle body a little bit.

[mistople]

Originally Posted by D-rek07

Did you have the spacer installed correctly on the passenger side? The one that the intercooler slides into underneath the crush bar? Mine was touching when I installed it but it bolted up okay

I think so? Everything looks flat and even to me, so I can't imagine I messed it up too badly.

EDIT: Figured it out! Feeling like an idiot. I simply had misaligned the radiator panel and was basically trying to thread the bolt through a thread that doesn't even get used. Sigh. My car is all buttoned up now though, so at least that's done.

I can't seem to get the Rotrex primed with my air compressor. It's an electric bike pump that I use for my car's tires at the track. I tried taping up the nozzle so no air escaped, but I can't get the fluid to get through to the "IN" banjo fitting on the C30 at all. Stuck on the last step!

Any tips?

[D-rek07]

Originally Posted by mistople

I think so? Everything looks flat and even to me, so I can't imagine I messed it up too badly.

EDIT: Figured it out! Feeling like an idiot. I simply had misaligned the radiator panel and was basically trying to thread the bolt through a thread that doesn't even get used. Sigh. My car is all buttoned up now though, so at least that's done.

I can't seem to get the Rotrex primed with my air compressor. It's an electric bike pump that I use for my car's tires at the track. I tried taping up the nozzle so no air escaped, but I can't get the fluid to get through to the "IN" banjo fitting on the C30 at all. Stuck on the last step!

Any tips?

Is the IN fitting loose? I would call Jackson Racing. Sometimes actually talking to someone helps out.

[mistople]

Originally Posted by D-rek07

Is the IN fitting loose? I would call Jackson Racing. Sometimes actually talking to someone helps out.

It is. I think I'm just unable to push enough pressure into the reservoir to actually get it through the system.

I'll give JR a call.

[mistople]

Install is done! She started up perfectly. Oh man...the sound it makes is amazing. Going around in 1st gear is hilarious. It really sounds like a jet engine under the hood!