Ohlins Road & Track for FRS/BRZ suspension install/review thread

[diss7]

Originally Posted by fooddude

^^^ ?

It goes against my nature to answer someone that quotes themself.

Search "ohlins slammed ft86 or ohlins stanced ft86" on google. Brings up a thread on here of how a guy got them to go a lot lower using different top hats and things.

[fooddude]

Ya..I already read that thread "how to hella flush on Ohlins"

... just wanted to get some hard numbers on max lower f&r with the Ohlins, and also hard numbers on max lower f&r with the addition of hvt fronts and raceseng rears... that thread didn't really state any hard numbers (only pics...which is hard to really see with its' big 18" wheels)

[mav1178]

In process of finally installing @Raceseng CasCam front upper mounts.

A few things I've noticed:
- Craftsmanship is absurd. If you want the best, don't look anywhere else.
- With the shorter collar + the lower mount height overall, I stand to gain about 10mm lowering. In other words, the Ohlins gained about 10-15mm of height adjustment in the front without changing anything else.
- Fits my STi strut bar without issue.

Looking to finish this up and get the car aligned in next couple of weeks.

-alex

[mav1178]

I won't detail the @Raceseng CasCam upper mounts in terms of how they are installed, the instructions are pretty clear.

However, a few things to note if you are installing onto Ohlins:

1) It drops the front of the car by approx. 15mm (more than I thought), the front wheel gap went down to about a finger (from almost 2 finger gap with the Ohlins upper mount).
2) It uses a 15mm sleeve insert. The original measurements seem to call for a 14mm sleeve but it doesn't fit. Kudos to Jarrett and his team for getting the proper inserts for me without issue.

Installation onto Ohlins:

Remove the Ohlins uppers. Pretty straightforward...


The lower spring perch needs to be loosened. More on this later:


There is a difference in the collar height that sits on top of the spring perch, the Ohlins is much thicker versus what the Raceseng one is. First picture is Ohlins, second is Raceseng:




If you look closely, the Raceseng collar is less than half the height of the Ohlins collar.

To set the proper spring height/preload (if any), loosen the lower collar and make sure the top perch is all the way down on the shock body.


I used both the collar + the supplied pillowball shock nut to hold down the top perch:


Next, rotate the lower spring perch so you get the proper spring preload:


The rest is pretty straightforward... install the plates onto the car, install coilovers, etc etc.

The car now sits approx 1 finger lower if measured by wheel gap, around 15mm.



-alex

[enivid]

What's the optimal lowering amount for the track? All the way on these?

[1Cor10:23]

@mav1178 hey Alex, just wanted to confirm something with the coils + raceseng plates. It seems like the Raceseng specific top perches are completely necessary? Also, given a 15mm drop using the raceseng setup compared to Ohlins, if I wanted to maintain recommended ride height would I just add 15mm to the initial instructions for the front?

Also, what do you reckon max camber is with the raceseng plates and the ohlins up front? I'm assuming you're not using camber bolts as well?

Thanks!

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

@mav1178 hey Alex, just wanted to confirm something with the coils + raceseng plates. It seems like the Raceseng specific top perches are completely necessary? Also, given a 15mm drop using the raceseng setup compared to Ohlins, if I wanted to maintain recommended ride height would I just add 15mm to the initial instructions for the front?

Also, what do you reckon max camber is with the raceseng plates and the ohlins up front? I'm assuming you're not using camber bolts as well?

The top perch is reused from Ohlins. What you will need is Raceseng-specific top collars that will sit on top of the Ohlins upper perch, and sits inside the Raceseng upper pillow ball (spherical bearing).

On ride height, that is correct. As for max camber, I'd say somewhere around -3 if you max out the camber + lower it as much as you can.

-alex

[GT86_PRAGUE]

Originally Posted by mav1178

haha... who knows, maybe I'll get sick of them after a couple of months and you can buy them for cheaper.

-alex

So, how are they after that time? Would you buy them again?

[1Cor10:23]

Originally Posted by mav1178

The top perch is reused from Ohlins. What you will need is Raceseng-specific top collars that will sit on top of the Ohlins upper perch, and sits inside the Raceseng upper pillow ball (spherical bearing).

On ride height, that is correct. As for max camber, I'd say somewhere around -3 if you max out the camber + lower it as much as you can.

-alex

Thanks for response! Interesting.. Not sure if they do collar only now, looks like to do full perch swap with collar integrated, I will contact raceseng to find out.

Edit: just spoke with Jarrett, you can find the collars here: http://www.raceseng.com/shock-bushing-cascam

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by GT86_PRAGUE

So, how are they after that time? Would you buy them again?

Yes I would, they still work great.

I should add that with virtually every coilover system out on the market, it's recommended to rebuild them from time to time. 24-36 months is the usual timeframe, if not sooner.

Not every manufacturer has the capability to rebuild, many just sell you a new strut. Keep this in mind.

-alex

[GT86_PRAGUE]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Yes I would, they still work great.

I should add that with virtually every coilover system out on the market, it's recommended to rebuild them from time to time. 24-36 months is the usual timeframe, if not sooner.

Not every manufacturer has the capability to rebuild, many just sell you a new strut. Keep this in mind.

-alex

I want Ohlins thats why I am asking. And they offer rebuilds as I know.
Thanks.

[1Cor10:23]

@mav1178 two quick questions:

1. Is there any danger in fully "opening" the adjuster more than 20 clicks? Wasn't "forcing" it but it was still clicking away after what seemed to be more than 20 counter-clockwise from fully closed. Wasn't counting at the time until I realized it seemed a lot more than 20 - this was while strut was off the car, just fiddling with it in my hand.

2. How do you remove the adjuster on the rear shock? I'm assuming it has to come off to be able to fully assemble the shock?

Thanks!

[Buurz]

I got Öhlins a while ago, in my opinion, they are the perfect mix of streetable manners and capability.

I haven't been on a track yet but Street driving feels great. I have them set to 15 clicks from full stiff front and rear.

I like the ride height it's at currently, I find its a good mix of form and function.

And if anyone is wondering, those are Weds TC105-N, not knockoffs.










Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

1. Is there any danger in fully "opening" the adjuster more than 20 clicks? Wasn't "forcing" it but it was still clicking away after what seemed to be more than 20 counter-clockwise from fully closed. Wasn't counting at the time until I realized it seemed a lot more than 20 - this was while strut was off the car, just fiddling with it in my hand.

2. How do you remove the adjuster on the rear shock? I'm assuming it has to come off to be able to fully assemble the shock?

#1, no idea, ask Ohlins.
#2, yes. The adjuster threads onto the end of the shock body. Grab the silver base of the adjuster (head is gold colored) and turn counterclockwise.

-alex