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Old 10-06-2019, 02:23 AM   #29
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Hey @norcalpb and @7 skulls, can you provide an update on the pedders hats? How are they holding up? Any additional noise, problems to report?
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Old 10-06-2019, 03:08 PM   #30
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Hey @norcalpb and @7 skulls, can you provide an update on the pedders hats? How are they holding up? Any additional noise, problems to report?
Can do. It's been roughly 5000km (3000 miles) since the install and everything is just a tight as day one. No weird noises or problems so far. Front tire wear seems fine but I will check this more closely when I change to my winter wheels in a few weeks.
Performance wise, the turn in is still immediate. I haven't been to an autoX since the install due to work commitments but with MPSS (stock size), there is now more front grip than you can safely exploit on the street. As a plus, it's easier to get the back end around. Anyone who has driven my car before/after always comments on the quicker steering. At higher speeds, it is almost too quick now, two hands on wheel,
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Old 10-06-2019, 10:12 PM   #31
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Hey @norcalpb and @7 skulls, can you provide an update on the pedders hats? How are they holding up? Any additional noise, problems to report?
Things have been great so far with the top hats. No additional noises, and like above the handling is great. I just love how compliant they are. IMO these are the DD/sport driving go-to. I;d say I've put 7k miles on these so far.

I have really soft STi springs but plan to upgrade to a coilover setup where I can incorporate these top hats and maintain comfort in that area on my way to work.
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Old 10-29-2019, 04:12 PM   #32
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Uneven wear...

Been away for 4 weeks without the car and just got back a few days ago. While changing the oil, I noticed some uneven wear on the inside of my front tires. Looks like almost 2 deg of camber might be too much for daily driving. My toe is within spec so that shouldn't be the problem. Everything I have read here says that 2 deg negative camber should be fine for a daily driver. I guess not. Next spring, (the car is not winter driven) I will have the alignment checked again and possibly got back to just the top hats with the stock camber bolts. Anyone else having this trouble?
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:10 PM   #33
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That's about what my tires look like at the end of their life at -4

'toe in spec' does not mean it's right, what's the actual toe value?
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:38 PM   #34
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That's about what my tires look like at the end of their life at -4

'toe in spec' does not mean it's right, what's the actual toe value?
0.08 and 0.07 degrees with total toe at 0.15. The car is more nervous at speed so I am hoping this is a toe issue but have no idea what toe I should be shooting for.
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Old 10-29-2019, 07:49 PM   #35
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0.08 and 0.07 degrees with total toe at 0.15. The car is more nervous at speed so I am hoping this is a toe issue but have no idea what toe I should be shooting for.
In or Out?
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:32 PM   #36
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[QUOTE=strat61caster;3270873]In or Out?[/QUOTE
Value is positive so toe-in.
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:51 PM   #37
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In or Out?
Value is positive so toe-in.
Could probably chop that in half closer to zero to improve tire wear, I've found the highway stability has more to do with the rear toe than the front, I've been happy with about +0.25 toe in the back and 0 in the front when it comes to highway stability. Right now at 0F & +0.15R and there's a bit of tramlining but part of that is the high camber I have in the front at -4

All toe numbers are total, imho as a conservative change 'closer to zero toe front, more toe in, about 0.25' would be a good step forward.
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:56 PM   #38
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Could probably chop that in half closer to zero to improve tire wear, I've found the highway stability has more to do with the rear toe than the front, I've been happy with about +0.25 toe in the back and 0 in the front when it comes to highway stability. Right now at 0F & +0.15R and there's a bit of tramlining but part of that is the high camber I have in the front at -4

All toe numbers are total, imho as a conservative change 'closer to zero toe front, more toe in, about 0.25' would be a good step forward.
I agree with the above. Zero toe front, slight toe-in rear. Toe will kill tires much faster than camber will.

On a lighter note, I got my top hats in on Friday! Now I just need to find some time to install and align...
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Old 10-30-2019, 10:55 AM   #39
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Appointment booked for tomorrow at the garage. Zero toe front is the goal. Just rotated my tires as well.
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:53 PM   #40
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Alignment done today.

Same garage, same machine, different, more experienced tech. More camber than the last alignment scan. Had him zero front toe and it made an immediate difference to how the car drove: less twitchy at highway speeds, no more of what felt like bumpsteer across road undulations in turns. Turn in is a little slower but front grip remains the same. Not bad for $84.
On the way to the garage, I shared the road with a heavily modded MK3 Supra. 600 whp is no comparison to 200 at the crank.
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Old 10-31-2019, 09:04 PM   #41
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I’ve heard that having more caster on the right is better for a DD as it helps fight the crown of the road.

Maybe RCE can chime in ��
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Old 11-01-2019, 04:15 AM   #42
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More caster does two good things, makes steering more tending to self-return to center, and increases dynamic negative camber gain on top of static camber for turned wheels, allowing to use less static camber, resulting in more even contact patch both in straights & in turns.
In some uses those changes might be considered as negative though. For example - it will make steering heavier, which some might not like, will overwork powersteering more (some of earlier twins on sticky tires / lot of caster had issues on track with PS overheating and switching off to cool down), and too much of a caster's induced dynamic camber gain might be detrimental if one needs opposite for that, eg. in drifting, where outer tire is one countersteered "opposite way".
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