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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 03-09-2015, 09:43 PM   #1
dp1
driving smoother faster
 
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dp1 tires (reference/research/reviews)

Pay it forward...

Common tire choices (see table) for summer/ax/track in 17" (225/45-17 to 255/40-17):
- Key attributes include Type, Brand, Model, Size, Rim Width (measured rim width in bold), Overall Diameter, Section Width, Tread Width, Tread Depth, Weight, UTQG, with differences from stock. Grouped by size and sorted by UTQG.

Highlights:
- Most 225 tires fit fine on the stock rims but fit better on 17x8 rims.
- Stock tires are good to learn car control since they are not too wide and break traction progressively. When ready to upgrade, 225 width provides plenty of fun in UTQG 200. You will know when it's time to go UTQG 100 or less. Michelin PSS or equivalent UTQG ~300 tire will be perfectly fine for a summer street tire that sees an occasional ax/track day, especially for relative beginners - PSS stick pretty well, also with Jackson Racing SC, and they won't get greasy until they are overdriven.
- Wider tires may have more grip but often snap quicker at the limits, very sticky wide tires even quicker.
- When you are ready for 235/245 widths, 17x9 rim will make the tire feel somewhat more responsive than 17x8, though both will work.
- The lighter the wheel the better, within reason and within recommended specs...don't worry about this for HPDE.
- Tires with UTQG 200 are the most common streetable track tires, with UTQG 100 are stickier, still streetable but will wear faster and may heat cycle out with frequent street use, UTQG <100 tires work best for advanced drivers and racers.
- FOR AX/TRACK, SEAT TIME IS EVERYTHING, the more you do it the better you get. Fast driver in a stock car will often be faster than a relative novice (unless prodigy) in a much upgraded car.
- Other factors that affect how much you get out of tires: experience driving at the limit, camber/toe, corner balance, ride height, dampers, sway bars, track surface/turns, ambient and consequently tire temperatures/pressures (wider tire takes more to heat up, tires have optimal temp ranges), driving style (use of steering/gas/brakes during weight transitions), BBK/brake pads/fluids (stickier tires with more aggressive brake pads allow greater braking force before ABS kicks in), forced induction, etc.
- Many sticky tires like aggressive camber (i.e., -2.5 or more negative)
- Stickier tires have more rolling resistance
- Tire pyrometer is your friend - it you check tire temps at the end of an ax/track session, at outer/middle/inner edge, you will see how tire pressure and camber could affect tire wear. During your cool down lap, continue to take corners at speed to keep tire temps up (to get more accurate measurement, especially if you're running more negative camber), but let the brakes cool down.
- Winter tires work better than summer or all-season tires in dry, wet and snow below about 45F and wear quickly above 60F due to softer compounds. All-seasons like Michelin A/S 3 are a compromise for year-round four season climates but they won't be great in the summer or in snow. Read instructions on your summer and track tires carefully as they may crack if stored or driven in temps near or below freezing.

(the following links show categories - not all tire models are available in twins-friendly sizes)
TireRack.com Racetrack & Autocross Only Tires
TireRack.com Streetable Track & Competition Tires
TireRack.com Extreme Performance Tires

- @wparsons "You're going to have a bad time with true R comps on stock suspension and alignment... you'll want MUCH higher spring rates, and a much more aggressive alignment before making that move."
"Unless you're trying to purposely soften the responses of the tire, you generally want the widest rims recommended for the tires. The less bulge there is the sharper the turn in will be and the more you'll feel feedback from the tires. A measurement more important than the advertised width (ie 225mm) is the actual tread width. A 215/45/17 Primacy HP has 7.5" of tread, while a 215/45/17 Dunlop Z2 has 8" of tread. They have the same section widths (8.4") and rim range (7-8"), but if you look at the two beside each other the difference is quite obvious. You're far better off all around by buying a better compound in a narrower width than a wider tire in a worse compound. If you're just driving on the street, 225's in a good sticky tire are plenty of grip. 245/40's on an 8" rim will be fine, but for my money I would go 225/45 (which I did)."
"Stay away from super sticky street tires or r comps until you're a better/more consistent driver. As it's been said already, adding more grip just hides driving mistakes, and when you finally get past the limit of the grippier tires you're going much faster and have less time to correct before a little oops becomes a very big one. Learn car control on less grippy tires at safer speeds, then add grip as you progress."
"Put a novice on really sticky tires and the extra grip masks a lot of driving mistakes that would be very obvious on less grippy tires. This is because they'll be driving below the limit of really sticky tires at first. The issue then becomes when they approach the limit and make the same mistakes. They haven't learned how to correct them yet, and are now travelling at significantly higher speeds than they would have been in the same situation on less grippy tires. The whole point is to make sure you're driving consistently and properly, and can correct mistakes, at lower speeds where the consequences aren't as big. Once you're competent with car control, then move to grippier tires. I would also argue that novices should spend a fair amount of time on a skidpad/slalom learning car control before setting out on a track as well for the same reasons. Biggest scare I've ever had on a track was in a students car that decided to not brake at all approaching a turn, then stomp on the brakes when he was almost at the apex (despite my protests). Thankfully he was on crappy tires and travelling at ~60% speeds, and learned his lesson without putting a wheel off. Had he been on really sticky tires it could've been WAY worse. There wouldn't have been runoff space at the higher speeds and it would've likely ended up in a wall. If a novice is overheating a summer tire in a couple laps, they're either a prodigy or really over driving the tire with mistakes..."

- @CSG Mike "For a newer driver, it's definitely a bad choice. However, for more experienced drivers, the R-comps last longer before starting to overheat, so you get more quality seat time."
"It lower the cornering limits of the car, so that you can spend more time dancing around the limits of adhesion, so that you can hone your skill at dancing around that fine line. Are you as comfortable in the wet as in the dry? I bet you aren't. There's a myriad of excuses, but if you are comfortable with dancing around that grip limit, then being in the wet doesn't affect your ability to continue that dance. You'll notice that a very common statement is that wet days are spectacular for car control practice. Why? Because the limit of grip is dropped dramatically, allowing you practice car control at a lower, safer speed. Using less grippy tires accomplishes the same thing, in the dry. Does your car handle like it's on rails? If it does, there's more grip available."
Also, see "Got a track related question? I'll try to answer." http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38926

- @King Tut "So many contradictions. Probably what @CSG Mike was replying to. My favorite part is the crazy, never-ending grip. That doesn't exist. You talk like you want to be out there on Hoosier A6s, but then at the end you say you want bang for your buck. I still say that bang for your buck will be one of the faster street tires, but crazy grip will be the Hoosier A6. You say you will only be running these tires at the track, but then this is your daily driver? You won't be able to maximize any tire and will wear them out much quicker without a proper amount of camber. With the stock alignment you will waste your expensive race rubber by wearing out the outside edge and not utilizing the full contact patch. How much money are you willing to spend to get your car aligned before and after each track event to put your track alignment on and then your street alignment on? Are you okay with running a track alignment on the street that will wear out the inside edge of your tires? My advice to you is that if this car is your daily driver, then stick with some fast street tires and a compromised street/track alignment and just enjoy your track weekends. Should you decide to make this car a track only car, then step up your suspension, alignment, and hop on some R comps."

- @Racecomp Engineering "A common question that often goes unanswered is: Do you want to be a better driver or do you just want to set your fastest laptime this weekend? If it's the latter, then yeah, get the r-comps but in the long run you'll learn more on quality street tires before stepping up to r-comps."

- @rice_classic "I pay for the Tire-Rack Heat Cycle service as I feel it adequately accomplishes the goal of the initial heat cycle and that way I can just put the tire [Toyo RR] on and run it hard. The idea of running a practice session just so cycle in my tires then have to store them away is a logistical expense that I feel is greater than paying the $15/tire to have them pre-heat-cycled. I think this service is responsible for my getting over 25 competitive cycles out of the tire. If you really want to put that into "weekends" then I'd say 4 weekends at roughly 6-8 sessions per weekend (I double enter)."
"when the Spec Miata guys switched from RA1's to Hoosier SM6's.. Some said the Hoosiers were slower but the problem was they needed to change their setup a bit to maximize their tire and they had to learn how to drive a grippier tire. Once they learned how to drive the tire, they were all faster on Hoosiers over the RA1."
"Personal example with this [tire compound vs width] on my race car: 2250 lbs with driver (light!)/125 Fwhp
205/50/15 Hoosier R6 or 225/45/15 Toyo RA1 or 225/45/15 Hankook C51
The Hankook C51 is a marvelous tire and sometimes it worked well but most of the time it didn't...The race car, due to power and weight struggles to put more than 170*F in the front tires even on an 85*F day with those big tires.
The Hoosier R6 and Toyo RA1 would operate vastly better at a lower temperature than the C51 making them far more competitive and far less terifying in the opening laps before they come up to temp. They worked better sooner (below optimal heat range) and operated better at the lower level of their optimal heat range. The C51's really liked heat, in fact they worked surprisingly well on a car that saw 200-220*F tire temps. On my car.. no so much.
Result: Tire choice is the Hoosier R6/SM6 in the 205/50/15 (because they're 1.5 seconds faster than the RA1)
p.s. I could have run a skinnier Hankook but that wouldn't make them any less terrifying on the opening laps, which was something I needed to remedy."


Tires/Links to tire manufacturer's pages/Members' comments:

Bridgestone Turanza EL400-02
Michelin Primacy HP
@dp1 - Stock tires; Doesn't take much to make them slide and the slide is not difficult to control; Good to start with on ax/track and learn how to handle slip.

BFGoodrich g-Force R1 & R1 S
@whataboutbob "I've been using the A7 for half a season in autocross. I had a set of BFG R1-S tires before them. The A7s are noticeably gripper than the R1-S. I've got about 50+ runs on the A7s and they are just now starting to fall off."
@D1cker "You wont have a whole lot of fun using those tires [255 R1S on stock power] on track with a stock car unless it's a tight low speed track. At high speed they'll be slowing you down and the car will push at the limit. I think a very sticky 225 on a stock car is great."

BFGoodrich g-Force Rival
@mla163 "I ran Rivals last season. They were certainly easy to drive, but were not the fastest out there. My money is on the New Z2, but I am going to wait to see some reviews and comparos first."
@CSG David "Rivals have never been a favorite of mine, but others favor them. For our given set of drivers and our competitors, the time difference has been consistently large compared to the top tier tires."

Bridgestone Potenza RE-11
@Thorpedo "I have ran the RE-11A [note - not RE-11] for the past 2 seasons with great success and now that I know bridgestone will have a new offering [RE-71R] I will definitely be holding to see results." - ax thread

Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R
@Lithium "Had my first experience with the RE71R's and my first impressions are really really good. I'm going to do some alignment changes and suspension adjustments for next weekend as I had some slight under-steer while accelerating. I will be able to report some more in depth info when the time comes. All in all I grabbed the fastest raw time of the day ( the track was only 30 seconds long) on the RE71R's. Tires had great response/grip; the only complaint I have is the tires did require some warm up time (2 runs while temps were in the 70s) but should work perfectly during the summer. Tires even behaved really well for daily use, very comfortable."
@Jawnathin http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...59#post2181359 (very fast but experienced excessive wear)
http://www.roadraceautox.com/showthr...=1#post1583295
http://www.reddit.com/r/Autocross/co..._on_a_2015_wrx

Dunlop Direzza ZII SS
@brn12345 "I have tried both the Rivals and the Dunlop ZII star spec and the Dunlop is way better than the Rivals. They are noisy on the road though." "The Rivals would not work well for auto x as they needed time to heat up. Also on the road race track after lap 7 they would fall of the cliff and lose grip unless you completely back off and let them cool. Another thing I didn't like about them is that after multiple heat cycles (30-40) they became very hard."
"I run in a local championship 2000cc that mandates minimum 140 tread wear and have been racing for 8 years in it now. I can tell you that we tried nearly all the tires and for road race we have always had the Kumho XS as the fastest tire on track over the 15 laps. That is until one racer went to the Dunlop Direzza II Star Spec (we had others running the Direzza II non star spec and they were slower than the Kumho). The star specs ran over 0.5 sec faster consistently and maintained the lap time to the end of the race, since then nearly the whole field moved to the Star Specs and now everyone is faster by 0.5 seconds. To the say the truth we are about 1 second away from times we used to set using Hoosier R6's.. "
@bslate3 "The Z2SS were a great choice for the day though. I was very surprised by the amount of grip they had. I got 1st in CS and 9th in PAX. The first run group was able to get 3 runs in before the rain hit. Looking at the times after the rain, I had the 2nd fastest time of the day."

Hankook Ventus R-S3 v2
@Dezoris "I definitely think the RS3v2 get more greasy near the end of track sessions, compared to the original. But they don't feel as downright dangerous in the colder temps as the v1s."
@CSG David "I'm not in autocross, but based on the competition, Hankook RS3s seem to be heavily supported out there. RS3 is king in the time attack field, but we all know that car setup and driver skill also play a big role too." If it came down between tire vs. tire RS3 is better than the whole list of tires." - ax thread
@CSG Mike "Grip for dollar, the best tire will be the cheapest tire, which is the Hankook RS3."

Hankook Ventus Z214
@Deep Six "Khumo 710's or Hankook Z214's are very similar to R6's at 60% of the cost."
@rice_classic "The Hankook Z214-C51 might also be an excellent choice. They wear very well and can handle the high temps and abuse. I know one guy who won't run anything else on his Porsche 968 race car."
"C51 for road course, C71's for Autux (maybe even C91s). If you don't make loads of tire temp, or its a really cool day, then you could run the C71's on a road course. However I don't see any situation where the C51's will work for Autox. They aren't very grippy below 180F. The C51's really like being hot and have really stiff sidewalls so less camber is needed. In fact that's always the trade-off. Autox needs a tire that's sticky RIGHT NOW. It's why Hoosier has an R7 and an A7, why Hankook has a C51 and a C71/91."

Hoosier A7 & R7 & Radial Wet H2O
@King Tut "Hoosier A6 is really an AutoX tire that is really only good for one or two flyer laps at a track day whereas the R6 is meant to be raced on and run longer heat cycles." - same applies to A7 vs R7
@SeanRTR "Spec Miata was on SM7 last year, and will be again this year. (I think SM6 and SM7 were both legal in 2014, but SM7 is the faster tire). SM7 is not quite the same thing as the R7. SM7 has the same structure design as the R6, but the new compound of the R7. So while SM6 and R6 tires in 205/50/15 (only size SM6/7 is available) were literally the exact same tire, SM7 is still a slightly faster tire than the previous R6, and SM6 tire due to the new compound. The major differences I've noticed from several laps on each of these tires is middle and especially later laps in the race. While SM6 tires on our car would fall off by well over a second late in the race, that difference is now about half a second on SM7's. Actual R7's in any size will be faster yet yielding the advantages of Hoosier's new tire design which is supposedly lighter, and offers less rolling resistance. If you're running 205/50/15, I have no idea why you'd take a Toyo RR ($175) over a Hoosier SM7 ($171), as these two tires should be closer to a solid second slower on an eighty second/lap track."

Kumho Ecsta V710
@Deep Six "Khumo 710's or Hankook Z214's are very similar to R6's at 60% of the cost." "I run 710's in 245/40 on 17x9 wheels. They typically run $100 per tire cheaper than Hoosiers, are a pound or two heavier but have a greater load rating. ( 2013 GT 500 had a R6 blowout this weekend!) I was on track day #7 with this set and ran a personal best (1:22:56) at Roebling Road despite it being the middle of August."
"My time on 710's would have been second fastest TTD that weekend just in front of Jon Kozlow. The Khumo's may not have the ultimate grip that Hoosiers provide but they handle heat well and have very good longevity compared to others."

Maxxis Victra RC-1
(2014) GrassRootsMotorsports - New Maxxis Tire for Track Days (RC-1) http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/art...re-track-days/
@CSG David "NT01 requires a little warm up time, but grip is comparable. NT01 strives better in hot situations, RC-1 is better for cooler situations. Either way, you shouldn't be overheating either tire. If you are, you are over-driving the car."
"RC1 and NT01 are good R-comps. NT01 takes time to heat up but does hold up to some overdriving. RC1 works from cold and doesn't tolerate overdriving as much. Grip levels are pretty equal. RC1 is near silent on the street. NT01 is noisy. Both tires suck in rain."
@Doozer "...we just did some testing the past 2 weeks and were the first N/A 86 to break the 2min mark (3.5km track) on old RC-1's. With the increase in speed were starting to notice the grip levels in the heavy breaking zones more. I can't think of a better tire for the money, but they sure ain't no Michelin Slick when you gotta stop"

Maxxis Victra VR-1
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103624

Michelin Pilot Super Sport
@7thgear "a good and durable high performance tire, but not at the level of the ones currently at the top." - ax thread
@wparsons "245/40 PSS's are about $200/tire, or roughly $50/tire more than 225/45 PSS's. IMO it's not worth the extra cost for the wider size in that tire. If you want more grip, get a 225 width RS3, Z2 or Rival. If you REALLY want to stick, get 245/40 RS3's for about $150/tire. Also, a 245/40 PSS only has 0.3" more tread width than the 225/45 PSS (8.5" vs 8.2"), where the 245/40 in other tires have 9.2"-9.5". A 225/45 Rival has 8.5" of tread, so it's the same footprint as a 245/40 PSS. I'm not saying the PSS are bad tires at all, but if your first concern is grip they're far from the top of the list."
@ZDan "Under track conditions, maybe. In real-world street conditions, the PSS gives little/nothing away to Extreme Perf category tires in terms of grip, and is clearly superior in wet grip."

Nitto NT01
@glamcem "I prefer Nitto NT01 for now since it's widely available, cheap, last longer, you can drive them on the street or to track, and people on rennlist forums and a few other forums also seem to like them ..they even run them to the cords.. you can even flip them on the same wheel and run inside and out (not in the rain of course since you change the tread directions)"
"another thing to mention about NT01s, they don't perform as nearly as good unless you really heat them up or before they let go so unlike other R comps they perform better and better as time passes, that's the complete opposite of the other R comps.."
@CSG David "NT01 requires a little warm up time, but grip is comparable. NT01 strives better in hot situations, RC-1 is better for cooler situations. Either way, you shouldn't be overheating either tire. If you are, you are over-driving the car." "As for the rennlist drivers that drive the NT01 to the cords: The NT01 also heat cycles out. If they're still gripping that late in their lives, then the owners/drivers aren't pushing the tires as hard as they think, but if the heat cycles aren't there, then the NT01 and RC1 are both good down to their cord."

Toyo Proxes R888
@glamcem "I know the R888s are notorious for being inconsistent and consistency is the main reason I picked NT01s over the hardcore lower TW R comps.. it seems like the NT01s are still the magic tire when all considered :/"
@rice_classic "I'd argue that the R888 is garbage in any weather, but that's just me. If someone gave me a set for free I'd immediately give them away." @rx3 " don't know about the track, but the Toyo R888 is definitely a very good tire for autocross-like purposes. It has good grip from the start and is even remarkably grippy in the wet (apart from hydroplaning at high speeds).
Practically everybody at our events [Europe] is running on Toyo R888."

Toyo Proxes RA1
@rice_classic "you may want to consider shaved RA1's (4/32nds). Those things last forever and provide good grip."
@phastafrican "RA-1s are a good choice. And if you find they're not lasting long enough, try Maxxis RC-1"

Toyo Proxes RR
@rice_classic "To me, an "R-Comp" assumes that it won't be driven on the street. So when you're talking "best bang for the buck" I have to say Toyo RR. It's 95% of a Hoosier R6 in lateral grip, can be punished almost as bad as a Hankook C51 and heat cycles like an RA1. I have almost 30 cycles on mine they and they still give me within .05 lateral G's as they did when new. Some even say they get better after 5 or so cycles. You don't have to pay for shaving (like an R888 or RA1). I've matched my personal best times (and a couple class track records) on RR's that I previously set on R6's."
"I definitely notice life cycle performance differences with the Hoosiers and Hankooks but with Toyo (Nitto is Toyo btw), their performance life cycle count is so high that many folks are still fast on them down to the cords (the RA1s were like that but recent iterations have not proven to be so). I've burn through 3 sets of RR's, down the cords, and they were every bit as fast on cycle 25 (when corded) than they were on cycle #5 (their fastest). The cycle life of Toyos has really won me over and the fact that the RR is within .1-.2 seconds of an R6 really sold me."
"the RR isn't the RA1, the RR is quite a bit faster and more stable. The gap between the R6/SM6 and RR is practically negligible in my testing and data shows sustained G's are equal and laptimes within 1/10th of a second."
@CSG Mike "RR's cycle pretty dramatically in my experience."
@King Tut "Interesting to hear your opinion of the Toyo RR. I know that the SpecE30 racers have not all found that to be true. I make sure I put a good full session heat cycle on my new RRs (normally Saturday warm up) and then give them a month or so till the next event to race on them. I have found myself getting 3 weekends out of them while some SpecE30 guys only like using them for 2 weekends. I am sometimes able to get some use at of them at a 4th event though as I like to get my moneys worth and run them till they cord like you used to be able to do with the original Toyo RA1s as they were fastest right up until they corded. I know you talk in heat cycles, but I prefer to talk in weekends as a 15 minute quali session isn't the same as a 45 minute race session as far as a heat cycle. The downside is that the Toyo RR is available in much fewer sizes than the RA1 and the R888 because it is really only meant for the NASA Toyo Tire contingency racing groups which are SpecE30, Spec Miata, 944Spec, and American Iron."

Yoko Advan AD08 R
@dp1 - see Videos thread, link is below

Forum threads:
(2015) 200+ Treadwear Autocross Street Tire Thread
Best Slicks / Race Tires for the money
Need some advice on tires
Maxxis RC-1 tire notes
Hoosier R7 ?????
Good wet/dry tires?
For stockish power Nitto NT01's R-Comps overkill?
is it possible to "over tire"
Need advice on tire size for track duty??
NT-01 or R888 ?? Summer Track Tire
Black Art Dynamics - Tyres and load transfer, Baseline spring specification
Success- the winning ways from FT-86 experts
tire advice
Tire rolling over
Let's talk about Tires
Michelin Pilot Super sport vs hankook vs nitto
Good tires for daily/Autocross
Slip angle and car control
Track Videos - Directory and Discussion
Fastest Track Times Thread
The Different between "Gain Grip by Width" & "Gain Grip by Compound"?
Optimal tire size for DD and canyon driving?
New Tire heat Cycling

Non-forum pages:
TireRack Tire Research - Consumer Survey Results
(2015) Grassrootsmotorsports.com street tire shootout
(2014) TireRack Tire Testing Results - Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R Preview Report (win over RE-11A in dry and even more in wet)
(2014) TireRack Tire Testing Results - Testing Extreme Performance Summer Tires: How Well Can They Handle the Extreme?
(2014) RoadAndTrack - Performance tire throwdown
(2013) SportsCar magazine - Get a grip
(2014) RS-3 vs Z1SS vs 595 RS-R vs RE-11 vs Z2 vs Rivals

Videos:
Tires for summer/autocross/track (videos only) http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2170201

Zipped source spreadsheet is attached if somebody wants to create similar for 16", 18", wider, all-season, winter, drifting, stance, rally...

Will update this post as I can, feedback is welcome
Attached Images
  
Attached Files
File Type: zip FRS-BRZ-GT86-Tires.zip (11.3 KB, 68 views)

Last edited by dp1; 10-10-2016 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 03-10-2015, 05:30 PM   #2
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very cool, thanks for doing this
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Old 03-11-2015, 02:06 PM   #3
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thanks you my good man. see you soon
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Old 03-12-2015, 07:34 AM   #4
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driving smoother faster
 
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Originally Posted by subielife View Post
thanks you my good man. see you soon

Five weeks and one day to NJMP, eight days to BBK/alignment/corner balancing/fluids, see you soon. Can't wait to try out NT01 but have to cord RA1 first, still 3/32s to go
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Old 03-12-2015, 08:24 PM   #5
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17" tires for summer/ax/track (list and attributes)

Added:
- links to tire details
- Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R (the apparently 1.4% per lap improved version of RE-11A)
- Tread Width
- few sizes in the 225-245 range that I missed before

Please contribute links to good tire reviews for these categories and I'll add them to post #1
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Old 03-12-2015, 08:39 PM   #6
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you want just data or actual links to buy from?
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Old 03-12-2015, 08:56 PM   #7
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you want just data or actual links to buy from?
Updated with links to manufacturers' pages, removed links to buy...not sponsored and not looking to become sponsored

Last edited by dp1; 03-13-2015 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 03-14-2015, 08:07 AM   #8
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Now grouped by sizes and sorted by UTQG. Next frontier, links to tire reviews...suggestions welcome
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Old 03-15-2015, 09:50 AM   #9
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Very good post. RS3 v2 goes on this week. Had leftover RS3 v1 last year. Time to see how they compare.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:39 AM   #10
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Very good post. RS3 v2 goes on this week. Had leftover RS3 v1 last year. Time to see how they compare.

Great, please share your impressions
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Old 03-15-2015, 02:51 PM   #11
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Great, please share your impressions
Feedback will come evening of the 29th after two days at track.
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Old 03-15-2015, 06:37 PM   #12
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Update: Created separate thread for videos only, link is in the top post...embedded YouTube videos take too much page real estate and would make this page more difficult to read.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:51 PM   #13
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this should be sticky
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:39 PM   #14
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Sticky it. I feel like a celebrity as I was quoted along with knowledgeable individuals such as CSG Mike. Made my day, right there.
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