follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Speed By Design
Register Garage Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Software Tuning

Software Tuning Discuss all software tuning topics.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-27-2014, 05:16 AM   #1
BC-Boy
Senior Member
 
BC-Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Drives: 2013 Brz sport-tech
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 250
Thanks: 26
Thanked 47 Times in 41 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
So what would you say is too Lean? Too Rich ? Opinions Pls.

This is a topic to which i hear a very wide array of awnsers,
This is all based on a WOT situation with the engine on load as a typical dyno run would be performed , for the sake of simplicity.
What do you think a desirable AFR curve should look like N/A or F-I ?
What number would start to get you worried ? N/A or F-I?

Also what is your point of view on Rich conditions, and what is .. too rich ?

It would be nice to share opinions on this subject.
BC-Boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 06:06 AM   #2
s2d4
Senior Member
 
s2d4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: R32 GTR, AW11 MR2 SC, GTS86 R
Location: OZ
Posts: 2,615
Thanks: 603
Thanked 1,223 Times in 708 Posts
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Opinions are nice and all but experience probably trumps all.

All I know is documentation from badnoodle and tuners on this platform have basically followed this except your previous choices tuners.
@jamesm may shed more light on this.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
__________________
s2d4 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to s2d4 For This Useful Post:
Sportsguy83 (05-27-2014)
Old 05-27-2014, 07:33 AM   #3
blackhawkdown
Senior Member
 
blackhawkdown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2012 WRX, 2003 RSX Type S
Location: TN, AK, VA, S. Korea, NC
Posts: 451
Thanks: 12
Thanked 284 Times in 154 Posts
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
14.7 baby! just trolling for post counts, don't mind me.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatoni View Post
saying they wanted to add weight to improve handling is like saying people wear condoms to improve sex.
blackhawkdown is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to blackhawkdown For This Useful Post:
BC-Boy (05-28-2014)
Old 05-27-2014, 08:58 AM   #4
J_kennington
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: 2013 asphalt scion FRS
Location: Douglasville
Posts: 495
Thanks: 30
Thanked 183 Times in 125 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
On FI under WOT(full boost) I wouldn't go any leaner than 13-1. And would tune as rich as 10 or 11. On my eclipse, I consistently tune to 11-1 AFR at wide open under full boost. It's easier for me to replace 4 spark plugs than it is a block.

On NA under WOT I think I would want to stay around 13-14. It's been awhile since I've messed with an NA though...but if memory serves right, you would get the most power the closer to stoich you are.
__________________
2013 raven frs(dd/grocery getter)
1990 mitsu eclipse gsx(street/strip car)
1995 gmc 1500 4x4(off road toy)
2005 Yamaha yz250f
J_kennington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 09:40 AM   #5
Apoc
Senior Member
 
Apoc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: Raven FR-S 6M
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 638
Thanks: 348
Thanked 375 Times in 232 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Based on my limited experience with tuning, the sweet spot for N/A AFR at WOT is between 12-12.5 to 1. The AFR from stock o2 sensors is not that accurate, so most tuning I've seen done here lately keeps a bit lower at 11.5-12 as a safety margin without any loss of power.
__________________
“The World is Flat”
[||•]=(86)=[•||]
Apoc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 11:13 AM   #6
jamesm
Banned
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2013 FR-S
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,929
Thanks: 1,166
Thanked 2,293 Times in 1,180 Posts
Mentioned: 313 Post(s)
Tagged: 4 Thread(s)
on pump gas...

NA: low 12's tailing to mid-high 11's above 6.5k or so. this is because the car is crazy knock-prone up high and you can usually make more power by richening it up a bit and keeping more timing. the rich afr's we run on these cars has nothing at all to do with an O2 sensor (the car doesn't even use the O2 sensor in open loop), it's because it buys you knock resistance, and this car is extremely knock sensitive. higher DI ratio + slightly richer than typical AFR allows you to run a lot more timing and ultimately make more power.

FI: 11.6-11.4:1, again maybe richening up a bit as you get above 6.5k... for the same reasons as above. I've found that range is a really good spot for power... still allows you to run decent timing without having to give up a bunch of power going rich. power drops off pretty hard as you get into the very low 11's or down into the 10's.

As far as what AFR is 'safe' there is no right or wrong answer. There are obvious limits: if you're running 14:1 under load NA or 13:1 under load boosted that's obviously bad... but the car can start to knock just a few tenths of a point leaner than target if it's tuned fairly aggressively. The key is just to make sure that the AFR is consistent and stays where you put it... this means minimizing fueling error to less than 2% across the board and turning off LTFT in open loop, basically. You'll never have a consistent AFR with LTFT acting in open loop and high fueling error.
jamesm is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to jamesm For This Useful Post:
akyp (05-28-2014), D_Thissen (12-17-2016), phrosty (06-01-2014), s2d4 (05-27-2014), solidONE (05-27-2014), steve99 (05-27-2014)
Old 05-27-2014, 11:40 AM   #7
Ironsquid
King of Kiwi Palace
 
Ironsquid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: Faster than you
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 585
Thanks: 184
Thanked 578 Times in 264 Posts
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesm View Post
on pump gas...

NA: low 12's tailing to mid-high 11's above 6.5k or so. this is because the car is crazy knock-prone up high and you can usually make more power by richening it up a bit and keeping more timing. the rich afr's we run on these cars has nothing at all to do with an O2 sensor (the car doesn't even use the O2 sensor in open loop), it's because it buys you knock resistance, and this car is extremely knock sensitive. higher DI ratio + slightly richer than typical AFR allows you to run a lot more timing and ultimately make more power.

FI: 11.6-11.4:1, again maybe richening up a bit as you get above 6.5k... for the same reasons as above. I've found that range is a really good spot for power... still allows you to run decent timing without having to give up a bunch of power going rich. power drops off pretty hard as you get into the very low 11's or down into the 10's.

As far as what AFR is 'safe' there is no right or wrong answer. There are obvious limits: if you're running 14:1 under load NA or 13:1 under load boosted that's obviously bad... but the car can start to knock just a few tenths of a point leaner than target if it's tuned fairly aggressively. The key is just to make sure that the AFR is consistent and stays where you put it... this means minimizing fueling error to less than 2% across the board and turning off LTFT in open loop, basically. You'll never have a consistent AFR with LTFT acting in open loop and high fueling error.

You mean every car is different??!?
__________________
Ironsquid is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Ironsquid For This Useful Post:
jamesm (05-27-2014), wparsons (05-28-2014)
Old 05-27-2014, 11:42 AM   #8
solidONE
Senior Member
 
solidONE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Drives: FR-S Whiteout
Location: California
Posts: 2,863
Thanks: 1,808
Thanked 790 Times in 611 Posts
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsquid View Post
You mean every car is different??!?
You think every car/engine is the same??!?
solidONE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 11:43 AM   #9
Ironsquid
King of Kiwi Palace
 
Ironsquid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: Faster than you
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 585
Thanks: 184
Thanked 578 Times in 264 Posts
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by solidONE View Post
You think every car/engine is the same??!?
Missed sarcasm is an epidemic.
__________________
Ironsquid is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Ironsquid For This Useful Post:
jamesm (05-27-2014), wparsons (05-28-2014)
Old 05-27-2014, 11:47 AM   #10
solidONE
Senior Member
 
solidONE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Drives: FR-S Whiteout
Location: California
Posts: 2,863
Thanks: 1,808
Thanked 790 Times in 611 Posts
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsquid View Post
Missed sarcasm is an epidemic.
solidONE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2014, 01:44 AM   #11
BC-Boy
Senior Member
 
BC-Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Drives: 2013 Brz sport-tech
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 250
Thanks: 26
Thanked 47 Times in 41 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
I want a thicker head gasket,
BC-Boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2014, 09:09 AM   #12
Apoc
Senior Member
 
Apoc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: Raven FR-S 6M
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 638
Thanks: 348
Thanked 375 Times in 232 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BC-Boy View Post
I want a thicker head gasket,
Is this to lower the compression ratio?
__________________
“The World is Flat”
[||•]=(86)=[•||]
Apoc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2014, 12:51 PM   #13
BC-Boy
Senior Member
 
BC-Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Drives: 2013 Brz sport-tech
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 250
Thanks: 26
Thanked 47 Times in 41 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Apoc View Post
Is this to lower the compression ratio?
yup
BC-Boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2014, 02:07 PM   #14
wparsons
Senior Member
 
wparsons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 Asphalt FR-S Manual
Location: Whitby, ON, Canada
Posts: 6,716
Thanks: 7,875
Thanked 3,352 Times in 2,134 Posts
Mentioned: 99 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Garage
Why do you want to lower the c/r?
__________________
Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak...
flickr
wparsons is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Tags
afr, fuel, lean, rich


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
lean at idle only woode Forced Induction 5 05-03-2014 04:48 PM
PO171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1 rmdrag0n Engine, Exhaust, Transmission 23 03-02-2014 12:50 AM
Running rich KslayFRZ Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB 15 10-25-2013 11:42 PM
running lean EZWood Engine, Exhaust, Transmission 26 10-18-2013 12:53 PM
Rich man's FR-S (WRB BRZ) Hamza7 Cleaning and Detailing 9 06-24-2012 11:36 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:16 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.