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Old 03-18-2018, 11:59 PM   #15
Elliotw
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Originally Posted by Tristor View Post
With the Shrader kit the overall weight savings is 23 pounds according to them. Based on my own weighing of components going in and out in the process, I think it's closer to 30 pounds. It's not a huge amount, but I like the effect of having a true 2-seater, which is how all sports cars should be IMHO

Installation is pretty simple. One component I added was to use an Instapak Quick RT #80 under each rear seat basin covering panel to give it more structural rigidity (which it needs) and to add additional NVH reduction. According to another thread on this kit the #100 is the proper size to fully fill it in, but the #80 seems to have worked okay as well. All in all, the noise level is roughly the same as it is with the car stock, but the cabin feels more cozy and it makes it easier to put more stuff in the vehicle with the trunk panel removed compared to folding down the rear seats. Also, yes, you can remove the trunk panel or lay it flat and use the extra space for storage just like with the rear seat backs folded down.

Personally I did the mod about 80% because I thought the rear seats were pointless and I prefer sports cars to be 2-seaters, 10% for the weight savings, and 10% for looks. It's up to you whether it's something you're interested in, but ~30 pounds isn't a huge amount of weight savings for ~$300 and an afternoon of work. On the flip side, it's weight savings that doesn't mess up the appearance or comfort level of the car like stripping out the interior normally would.
I agree with you. Just the BRZ being my only car I feel like having the back seats for emergency cases is just too hard to pass up for just 30 pounds and 300 missing from my wallet. If I had another car I would do this mod in a heart beat I mostly agree with your ethos. The kit does look clean!
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:33 PM   #16
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Just a quick update, I ordered a set of Perrin Wing Risers and will be installing them as soon as they arrive. I've received an update that my wheels should be arriving on April 13th (or shortly thereafter), so that gives me a target date for wheels and brakes. I also have packed everything I need (I think) for my first track day in the morning. I'll report back tomorrow night on how it went.
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Old 03-23-2018, 03:50 PM   #17
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I would like to chime in that no amount of bracing will make up for driveline slop, AND the bushings that address it are even less expensive. Consider doing the rear subframe lockout, and transmission lockout bushings at least to start! Everything else in this car is tot enough, but those two items see a drastic change without too much NVH.
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:57 PM   #18
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Well, I'd call my first time ever driving on a track a resounding success. Not only did I survive and my car survived, but I even managed to learn a bunch of things. It was a huge amount of fun and the entire group at the track were great people. One gentleman in our group had the foresight to have his wife come along with her camera so she could take pictures of the cars around Turn 5 ("Monaco").

So without further ado here's some pictures:

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For those wondering, here's the track map for L1 - Short Course which the class I took "Foundations of Road Racing" takes place on. The track is modeled after Fiorano, the Ferrari test track.
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzleSAURUS View Post
I would like to chime in that no amount of bracing will make up for driveline slop, AND the bushings that address it are even less expensive. Consider doing the rear subframe lockout, and transmission lockout bushings at least to start! Everything else in this car is tot enough, but those two items see a drastic change without too much NVH.
Thanks, I'll definitely look into it. Are the Whiteline bushings the recommended ones to get? Today's time on the track also made it abundantly clear to me that I need to prioritize some cooling mods ahead of everything else maybe. I'm thinking about the following as my next up (maybe even before the end of this summer):

* Mishimoto Oil Cooler Kit
* Mishimoto Performance Radiator
* Mishimoto Radiator Twin-Fan
* Mishimoto Radiator Hose Kit
* Mishimoto Coolant Overflow Tank
* Mishimoto Liquid Chill Premix coolant
* Koyorad 1.3 Bar High-Pressure Radiator Cap
* Stark Performance Automatic Transmission Cooler
* Red Line D6 ATF
* Motul 300V 75W90 Gear Oil (for the diff)
* Magnetic Drain Plugs for AT and Diff

Getting the above at FT86 Speed Factory comes in around $2500, so I think I might be able to budget it in this year if I ditch on getting a second set of lightweight wheels and tires before the summer is out.
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Old 03-24-2018, 10:22 PM   #20
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You're overthinking it; just get an oil cooler (preferably 19 rows) and be done with it.
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Tristor (03-25-2018)
Old 03-25-2018, 03:09 AM   #21
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You're overthinking it; just get an oil cooler (preferably 19 rows) and be done with it.
You may be absolutely right, but I'm concerned enough I think it'd be warranted to address the potential issue before it becomes an actual issue.

Both my coolant temperature and my oil temperature were very high when I stopped in the pit after my last session on track. Given that it only hit mid-80s outside at the track and we expect this summer to be exceptionally hot I'm very concerned about what will happen during track sessions over the summer. The built-in gauge isn't granular enough to be exact, but unless I was misreading it my coolant temperature was around 240F. My math may be a bit off, but I gather that the stock cooling system in a BRZ has a boil-off point around 257F, which means I could potentially expect to have serious trouble at the track if the outside temp is 103F or higher, unfortunately that's a commonplace temp in South Texas during the summer. I can solve for this by increasing system pressure (getting me a boil-off point closer to 265F) and using better coolant, but I also want to get the heat out of the system, which is why I think an upgraded radiator might be worthwhile.

I agree that the oil cooler is far higher priority though and maybe if I get it in place it might help take load off the cooling system and bring everything else back in check too. I figure since I have to take the bumper off for the install, I might as well get it all out of the way in one go though. Looks like I could get the oil cooler and the radiator upgrade out of the way in one go. The Jackson Racing Dual Radiator and Oil Cooler kit seems to do both and has fitment to replace the OEM radiator. Does anyone have any experience with this vs running a separated oil cooler and radiator upgrade?

Last edited by Tristor; 03-25-2018 at 03:44 AM.
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Old 03-25-2018, 10:53 PM   #22
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The coolant and oil temp gauges are on a different scale. Press and hold the middle button on the right of the steering wheel to change the coolant temp display from a dummy gauge to actual temp and you will see that the 270 oil temp mark corresponds to a 230 coolant temp mark. You were probably around 200 F max on the coolant temps.
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:23 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
The coolant and oil temp gauges are on a different scale. Press and hold the middle button on the right of the steering wheel to change the coolant temp display from a dummy gauge to actual temp and you will see that the 270 oil temp mark corresponds to a 230 coolant temp mark. You were probably around 200 F max on the coolant temps.
Whew, okay that is great information to know. That definitely helps. Thanks
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:33 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Tristor View Post
Thanks, I'll definitely look into it. Are the Whiteline bushings the recommended ones to get? Today's time on the track also made it abundantly clear to me that I need to prioritize some cooling mods ahead of everything else maybe. I'm thinking about the following as my next up (maybe even before the end of this summer):

* Mishimoto Oil Cooler Kit
* Mishimoto Performance Radiator
* Mishimoto Radiator Twin-Fan
* Mishimoto Radiator Hose Kit
* Mishimoto Coolant Overflow Tank
* Mishimoto Liquid Chill Premix coolant
* Koyorad 1.3 Bar High-Pressure Radiator Cap
* Stark Performance Automatic Transmission Cooler
* Red Line D6 ATF
* Motul 300V 75W90 Gear Oil (for the diff)
* Magnetic Drain Plugs for AT and Diff

Getting the above at FT86 Speed Factory comes in around $2500, so I think I might be able to budget it in this year if I ditch on getting a second set of lightweight wheels and tires before the summer is out.
A few things:

Mishimoto products are generally made to minimum acceptable standards in my experience. The radiator in my forester XT has been replaced due to pin hole leaks, after three radiator caps I tried an OEM one and the issues went away for 1 year, before developing another pin hole leak. Combine that with a poorly aligned overflow fitting on all three, (the line rubbed on the radiator mount no matter what I did.)

* Mishimoto Oil Cooler Kit - Not my preference solely based on brand experience, though most have had reasonable experience with this product. This is one part that Mishimoto seems to have down pat.
* Mishimoto Performance Radiator - Not needed, unless your coolant temps are going wild...if you do get high coolant temps after your oil cooler, invest in a koyorad!
* Mishimoto Radiator Twin-Fan - Not needed, OEM fans flow similar air volume. This is purely an aesthetic move. If you get fans, I recommend SPAL fans, the Mishimoto radiator shroud is fine though.
* Mishimoto Radiator Hose Kit - Not needed, once your OEM ones get tired moving to silicone is fine, but there is no major benefit of silicone while your OEM ones are in good shape.
* Mishimoto Coolant Overflow Tank - Not needed, OEM is fine.
* Mishimoto Liquid Chill Premix coolant - Again, use OEM.
* Koyorad 1.3 Bar High-Pressure Radiator Cap - Good part, but it comes free if you need it and get the Koyorad radiator!
* Stark Performance Automatic Transmission Cooler - Important, definitely a good call.
* Red Line D6 ATF - Motul ATF is another good option, but the Red Line product is great as well.
* Motul 300V 75W90 Gear Oil (for the diff) - You're looking for Motul Gear 300, 75W90. NOT 300v, (that's engine oil,) and NOT 300V 75W90LS, that's for clutch type LSD's, though it should work fine in the Torsen style as well.
* Magnetic Drain Plugs for AT and Diff - Diff already has one, AT is not really necessary.

My opinion is a lot of the components you're asking about aren't an upgrade. Consider the R&D budget of a value oriented performance parts company that focus on customer service as their key differentiation as opposed to a lifetime part. (It's a lifetime warranty, NOT a lifetime component.) versus the budget of Subaru, Toyota, or a high-end cooling company that's been doing it for decades with nearly no marketing.

Just my opinion and experience, regardless of what you choose to get I hope the components serves you well and is a great experience for you and your 86!

The red/yellow/green coloring should make sense, I've interjected with my experience and opinions.
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Old 03-26-2018, 01:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzleSAURUS View Post
A few things:

<snip>

My opinion is a lot of the components you're asking about aren't an upgrade. Consider the R&D budget of a value oriented performance parts company that focus on customer service as their key differentiation as opposed to a lifetime part. (It's a lifetime warranty, NOT a lifetime component.) versus the budget of Subaru, Toyota, or a high-end cooling company that's been doing it for decades with nearly no marketing.

Just my opinion and experience, regardless of what you choose to get I hope the components serves you well and is a great experience for you and your 86!

The red/yellow/green coloring should make sense, I've interjected with my experience and opinions.
Thanks a ton for the information. I appreciate it. What do you think about the Jackson Racing Dual Radiator and Oil Cooler kit? It seems to replace the OEM radiator and combine the oil cooler into the same space. Given your comments on Mishimoto, I'm looking at either this or possibly the HKS or Perrin oil cooler kits. After setting the coolant temperature gauge to absolute value I can see that my coolant temperature wasn't nearly as high as I thought, so I'm more concerned with the oil cooler vs the radiator.
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Old 03-27-2018, 07:08 AM   #26
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Thanks a ton for the information. I appreciate it. What do you think about the Jackson Racing Dual Radiator and Oil Cooler kit? It seems to replace the OEM radiator and combine the oil cooler into the same space. Given your comments on Mishimoto, I'm looking at either this or possibly the HKS or Perrin oil cooler kits. After setting the coolant temperature gauge to absolute value I can see that my coolant temperature wasn't nearly as high as I thought, so I'm more concerned with the oil cooler vs the radiator.
The Jackson Racing stuff is nice. The dual rad/oil cooler kit seems to be a quality product but I have no personally installed one so I'm always hesitant to discuss products I haven't installed myself. The general consensus is that it's a good product. An independent oil cooler and radiator will perform better since it's two independent systems, but the fact that the coolant will help bring the oil up to temp makes it a better daily driver system, especially if you're in an area that gets cold.

Glad you checked your data!
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Old 03-27-2018, 05:14 PM   #27
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I'm considering the JR dual Rad/Oil cooler myself.. lots of great things about it in this thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104943
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Old 03-28-2018, 05:56 AM   #28
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Nice build.

You're right about some great roads around there. The Twisted Sisters are a blast.

Is that track up around San Marcos?
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