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Old 08-01-2014, 03:26 AM   #29
Fastbrew
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Cusco transmission mount collar shot during install
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:01 AM   #30
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Quick update - more soon...

Drift Office was awesome - AVO installed and Comp Clutch segmented ceramic ready to go.
Bob was able to squeeze 273whp and a nice solid 200pf of tourqe through the little exhaust system on 92 Chevron on a 92 degree day.

However - I want 300 so we have to do some tweaks. Car is having the 2.5 (2.25 with the crimp bend) removed and replaced with a 3" Perrin exhaust plus and AVO front/mid tomorrow. This will move enough air that Bob can hit the 300 mark. Also, the Namleless font pipe wasn't playing nice with the AVO setup - tolerances were a bit tight so I am swapping that part out too.

So - more in a bit. Just need to do the swap and get back up there for a final tune.

The car is soooooo much more fun to drive even where it is now. Night and day difference in terms of acceleration. I am pleased with my suspension and tire choice - everything is coming together.
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:55 PM   #31
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Pow - in with the AVO front/mid pipe and Perrin 3" out with the Nameless front pipe thunking under the passenger foot-well. All is well with the car for the moment.

The new catless setup sounds really nice. The Perrin is resonated which helps keep the noise down. Very happy with the result. Not loud at all at idle. Gets a nice purr/growl as you work through the RPMs - settles into a nice no drone tone at highway speeds.

JPM coachworks stuff should be arriving soon. That should be my next update.



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Old 08-16-2014, 10:05 PM   #32
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A couple of shots of Bob's work



And a few of the overall car as it stands today:


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Old 08-18-2014, 05:11 PM   #33
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From JPM Coachworks: Your order has shipped!

Yes - I am looking forward to these pieces.
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:10 PM   #34
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Car's looking great! Nice mods so far
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Current: 2005 Porsche 911 Carrera S 6MT
Previous: 2 BRZ's, 997 C2S, C5 RS6, C4 S6, B8 S4, GDB STi, S30 240Z, FC3S RX-7 TII, AW11/SW20 MR2, E30 318is/325i, etc.
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Fastbrew (08-29-2014)
Old 08-29-2014, 04:41 PM   #35
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Update:

I have still not been able to shake the clutch issues and get back up to the Drift Office to finalize my tune.

This has taken WAY longer than anticipated.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, though. I hope

I decided to just eat the price of the original Competition Stage 3 Ceramic.

To recap: First clutch was installed by The Drift Office just prior to the AVO turbo. The clutch was really, really noisy. Bob had an extra one in a box. I spoke with both his mechanics and they said they thought it was overly loud. So - we pulled the clutch and replaced it with the new one. It was and is quieter. We all thought "end of story".

Over the following couple of weeks - the car developed a horrible, engine rocking shudder at low RPMs - especially on hills from a standstill. The shake was so great that the overpipe banged against the frame and triggered knock protection.

I pulled the Nameless 2.5 and installed Perrin 3" + AVO front/mid. Catless. The knocking went away but the shuddering did not.

To make matters worse, the clutch is now getting "stuck" part way up sometimes. I had analysis done by Ryan at VIP in PDX. He is conjecturing that this may be a sign of bolts on the clutch coming untorqued. I am not sure if loctite was used but it will be soon!

Here is my plan:
1) I ordered a Southbend Stage 3 clutch with a Stage 2 flywheel. Why? The stage 2 flywheel is a little heavier and should result in better daily driver behavior with the benefit of the stage 3 clutch plate. I really researched clutches. Everything from ACT, Exedy, Clutchmaster, OS Giken, etc. I chose to go with SB due to their reputation and the fact that they are here in the US. They way they whipped up this Stage3/2 combo for me at $850 and shipped immediately is a great sign. High hopes here that I get the perfect DD/Street/AX type clutch. It is rated at 450 ft lbs torque so this will handle everything I am going to throw at it for now.

2) I am going to have VIP pull the CC and install the SB following proper installation techniques to the T including red loctite, no dinging/hanging of the clutch plate etc. I am talking HANDLE WITH CARE to the exstream. I am going to add some stainless clutch cable and that is that. Hopefully I won't have to think about clutch issues for a loooong time.

3) I am going to have Ryan also fix the suspension setup that was done by PRE in PDX. I had him throw a camber gauge up and there were major differences. Close to .5 degree on the fronts. Lame. We are going to take the back wheels down to about -2 from -2.5 and move the fronts from about -1.5 to -2 or maybe -2.5. Adjust the toe/camber/castor etc. We are also going to pull out the racecomp rear swaybar that PRE sold me and put the stock one back in. The racecomp is too much bar for my taste and makes the back fight the coilovers. Then - we are going to redo the alignment.

4) After all of this - I will take the car up to the Drift Office to finalize the tune on the new 3" exhaust and then I am going to take a break. Hopefully being able to enjoy the car to its full extent for the first time in awhile.

Oh - I did get the JDM coachworks stuff in. It is really nice. I have installed the one piece dash part and it is really sweet. Except - I have a cafi aftermarket android head and of course - this exposes a section of the piece that isn't covered in Alcantara. JDM says - it was designed for the stock head unit. So - I am going to see if I can alter the CAFI so that it sticks out a little more to cover the bald spot.

Once again - change anything on this car and it can lead to a series of issues!
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Old 09-12-2014, 11:46 PM   #36
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Today, I made a trip back up to the Drift Office.

Bob tweaked my tune. He actually dropped boost and gained a bit of HP due to the AVO 2.5 OP/MID - the catless setup and the 3" Perrin.

As expected - the Competition clutch DID have some issues.
First, when we put the car on the dyno - the torque was flatlining around 200ft/lbs while the rpms continued to rise. The guess? - Clutch slippage.

This clutch had only 1500 miles on it. It was toast. It turned out that there were a couple of problems:

1) A piece of foreign material looked to have had a few trips around the housing. I am sure this is what was causing the clutch pedal to get "Stuck" about 1/2 up a few times a few weeks back. It suddenly disappeared - I am sure when whatever was bumping around in there disintegrated. The guess is a rock. Apparently there is one hole in the housing that in a really weird set of circumstances can allow foreign material inside.

Anyway - it left it's mark all over. A couple of the metal posts had marks. There were additional scratch marks on the flywheel. Both clutch surfaces also had hot spots and pock marks. The material on the clutch pads was glazed like glass and there was a huge amount of powdered pad in the bottom. I don't know exactly what happened but it wasn't good.

We replaced it with a Soutbend Combo Stage 3 plate (Carbon\Kevlar rated at 450 ft lbs torque) and their Stage 2 flywheel. This is a heavy clutch in terms of weight. 35 pounds plus for the entire assembly. However - I did this on purpose after speaking with Southbend. I wanted the extra weight in the flywheel. I did not like the way the Competition clutch behaved at all in daily driving conditions. I am sure the flaws didn't help.

The clutch would cause the car to shake violently during release at low RPMs. And - it was unpredictable. Most likely due to the uneven and heavy wear on the pads.

Anyway - the new clutch is like butter so far. I have to put 500+ miles on it in "granny" mode. The drive back to PDX from Seattle had stop and go traffic for 30 miles or so which was great and helped me start breaking it in properly. I didn't take the car above 4K the entire trip. This is going to be hard keeping the car out of boost! I am typically a driver who likes to shift near redline. I am sure that didn't help that CC clutch plate much. But - it is what it is - I like to drive my sports cars like sports cars and the penalty will be in the plates.

I could go with a different surface but I do not want to transfer all of the stress to the tranny. I looked at an OS Giken which I loved but decided against.

I'm looking forward to seeing how this works out. I took a bit of a gamble since this is not on of the more popular/chosen clutches for this platform but so far - I am impressed with the clutch and their customer service.

I also had the chance to swap my fluids. So - I put in ENEOS 0w20 motor oil and Pentosin MTF2 tranny fluid. I also put in a Chasebay stainless steel/teflon clutch cable.

I noticed a huge difference in the tranny fluid. The shifting action feels really nice and tactile now. I will know more as it spreads around and I can run it at higher revs after the clutch is broken in.

The ENEOS feels good. Oil is a tough call. I like to rely on the info of people who I consider knowledgeable. I had the opportunity to hang out with Paul from AVO TurboWorld and he turned me onto Joe Gibbs oil. Paul informed me that he runs the stuff and ran tests on it. He says it has a high zinc content and it has never let him down. Even though he typically changes every 3K - the Joe Gibbs oil will keep its properties out to 7K etc. (He didn't recommend that - he just mentioned it since they tested it out to that distance) Anyway - I thought I would pass that along. It is certainly not cheap.

On the topic of oil - we took a peek in the difficult to remove AVO catch can that I have installed (It's the one that mounts where the sound resonator used to be). Over the last 2000 miles it had collected about 1/2 thimble full. It was actually pretty clean (good sign). It really smelled like gas after spending so much time in the blow by. I shouldn't have to empty this thing EVER when driving hard on the street. It's huge. After tracking I will check to see how much it collects.

Next steps?

Break this clutch in.
Tweak my suspension setup - back to a factory or even shorter rear sway. Adjust camber etc. Corner balance.

Enjoy the car and get it out to the track.
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:47 AM   #37
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Quick bump to say:

1) Still in break in period - only 350 miles in so far
2) Clutch feels awesome
3) Haven't been over 4K RPMs
4) Gas mileage has gone from avg 18 to 28 MPG lol
5) Bored as hell driving the BRZ like a granny
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Old 10-11-2014, 09:35 PM   #38
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Alright!

I diligently kept from boosting until I had 750 city driving miles on the clutch. Then, I couldn't resist so I started to creep into the 5K range. I added a road trip to that and I ended up at 1K miles of breaking in my Southbend Stage 3 endurance clutch.

I can't say enough about how much I love this new clutch. I never want to see a CC Ceramic clutch ever again. This is pure joy to drive.

There is a funny story here - Once I finished the break-in - I was like YEEHAH! Let's hammer this sucker! So - I hit the gas hard on the highway - POW - it felt like my engine turned off for a second. This continued. All gears from 4 up - hit the gas hard - engine would cut.

So - today I headed up to The Drift Office to do two things:
1) Figure out WTF was up (Bob was guessing a boost limiter and a leak)
2) Get the tune finished off now that the clutch was broken in and could actually hold the torque.

Issue number one turned out to be the solenoid boost control tube had blown off the controller. Arg. Second hose issue I have had. Very unlucky with the hoses so far.

Bob worked on my car most of the day. They ran tweak after tweak to get me two maps low boost/high boost. I am running 92 octane and we ended up with about 285WHP and about 250 ft/lbs torque. I will post dynos later when I get them in e-mail.

The drive home to PDX from Seattle was awesome. Finally - the car feels like what I have wanted since I got it a few months back.

Next week - the gang at PRE in Portland are going to work on my suspension to get that dialed in. There is too much camber on the back wheels and not enough on the front. Also, they made the rear too stiff and we are going to tweak that. Rotate the tires and do a corner balance and then I believe I am done for awhile.

Next spring, I will look into some stuff to give me some downforce - perhaps an extra trunk with a wing, a diffuser and a front lip. Also, a trip up to the Drift Office to add a race gas / 92 mix map.

For now - everything is just awesome
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Old 10-24-2014, 02:04 PM   #39
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Ordered a Raceseng Orange Ashiko and a black lockout ring.



FYI - I think it is funny that Raceseng says that these knobs make "side-arm shifting effortless".

What the hell is side arm shifting anyway? I googled it thinking there was something I was missing and the only result is from Raceseng lol

Whatever - 1.6 pounds of shift knob will feel different!
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Old 10-24-2014, 04:04 PM   #40
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NICE BUILD!
I believe side-arm shifting is when you hold the shifter like it's a beer bottle/soda can. You must use palm shifting which is just resting your palm on top of the knob with your fingers hanging and gripping. @Fastbrew

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbrew View Post
Ordered a Raceseng Orange Ashiko and a black lockout ring.



FYI - I think it is funny that Raceseng says that these knobs make "side-arm shifting effortless".

What the hell is side arm shifting anyway? I googled it thinking there was something I was missing and the only result is from Raceseng lol

Whatever - 1.6 pounds of shift knob will feel different!
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:02 PM   #41
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Here is my baseline and current dyno

Baseline


Current Map 2 10 PSI on Chevron Supreme 92
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:40 PM   #42
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A quick shot with the Ashiko and Lockout ring installed

Last edited by Fastbrew; 11-10-2014 at 12:51 AM.
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