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07-14-2018, 03:48 PM | #1 |
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Rear bolt stabilizer stripped
After removing these to install diff bushings I managed to strip both upper bolts on either side. I really don't understand how it happened considering I put them in hand tight at first but they just keep spinning and spinning. Has anyone else ran into this problem? I am going to order new bolts and attempt to re-thread the mount. *Image taken from DIY else where on forum. |
07-14-2018, 03:55 PM | #2 |
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You probably damaged the mounts and running a tap through will let the bolt screw in ,but strength will be vastly diminished. A bolt through with a locking nut or an oversized tap and bolt would be better.
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The Following User Says Thank You to ls1ac For This Useful Post: | Trueweltall (07-14-2018) |
07-14-2018, 03:57 PM | #3 |
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Good idea! Thanks. That's what I am going to end up doing.
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07-14-2018, 04:38 PM | #4 |
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I'm going to suggest the same thing the guy above said.
I did the same thing to one of the front sway bar bracket bolts. Just got a new bolt (same thread pitch but slightly longer) and a nut, chased the damaged female threads with a tap, threaded the bolt through and then put a nut on the back. Put a backing wrench on the nut, and then torqued the bolt to spec. Holds up just fine.
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The Following User Says Thank You to dutchman1 For This Useful Post: | Trueweltall (07-14-2018) |
07-14-2018, 08:34 PM | #5 |
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Yup, I did the same thing!! And did the same fix suggested above.
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07-14-2018, 08:57 PM | #6 |
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I will buck the trend and suggest a Helicoil insert. Done well, stronger than original and will retain OEM fastener.
Regarding how it happened, it's possible that the screw was over-torqued at the factory. To my chagrin, I've found many such fasteners. :/
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | dutchman1 (07-14-2018) |
07-14-2018, 09:13 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
I've never personally used Helicoil, I have heard good and bad things about it but mostly negative(probably due to user error). I already placed an order for some stainless steel hardware but I am sure there will be other times I strip something out on this car. The corrosion on my front differential bolts was crazy, caked in white and rusted in the middle. I think it's from driving through flood water to get to and from work during the last hurricane here in Florida. I have already snapped a bolt for the under-tray up front, have to drill it out eventually. |
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07-14-2018, 10:07 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
Haha you're right, that would've been the correct way to do it. It didn't occur to me when I damaged mine because it was 1am the night before an autocross and I don't keep a stash of metric Helicoils, but it is the best repair option. That being said, I believe you may need a right angle drill to get at the rear stabilizer bracket holes (I'm saying that out of the top of my head, my memory may be off.) Being that the OP is asking this question, I doubt he has one laying around.
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The Following User Says Thank You to dutchman1 For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (07-14-2018) |
07-15-2018, 12:07 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Grab a 6 and an 8 mm kit the next time you're out scrounging. You won't regret having them.
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07-15-2018, 12:32 AM | #10 |
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I've installed many helicoils (I keep an assortment). I wouldn't hesitate to install one but I wouldn't think they are stronger than the original. A through bolt with a nylock nut is what I would use.
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07-15-2018, 12:51 AM | #11 |
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You might not think so but they are made of a particularly tough alloy that resists galling WAY better than a plain old weld nut. That's why helicoils are used in joints that see repeated service. Common practice.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (07-15-2018) |
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