DIY - Sway Bar (Stabilizer Bar) Installation

[qoncept]

Originally Posted by FastLane1000

You mentioned fixing this by adding washers in another post. Was this not a permanent fix?
@Hotchkis have any input?

Sorry, I might not have said it very clearly.. You'll need shorter than stock endlinks to prevent interference with the control arms. I had the additional problem of the bolts endlink->sway bar studs also interfering with the inside of the fender well/frame whatever you want to call it. I'll go try to take a couple pics, but its hard to see.

[qoncept]

Here we go. The first pic shows the clearance from the endlink to the control arm. I was about to say "static clearance" but it changes a bit when you turn the steering wheel, which I had to do to get the pic on the ground.

With the stock end links you may or may not be hitting statically. Hit a bump in the road or turn and it will for sure, though.

The second pic shows the inside of the fender. You can see some paint has been scraped off. Directly below that is the end of the sway bar and endlink, and if you look closely you can see the washers I added between them. That stud sticking out was what was interfering under load.

[simpleisbest]

Originally Posted by qoncept

Here we go. The first pic shows the clearance from the endlink to the control arm. I was about to say "static clearance" but it changes a bit when you turn the steering wheel, which I had to do to get the pic on the ground.

With the stock end links you may or may not be hitting statically. Hit a bump in the road or turn and it will for sure, though.

The second pic shows the inside of the fender. You can see some paint has been scraped off. Directly below that is the end of the sway bar and endlink, and if you look closely you can see the washers I added between them. That stud sticking out was what was interfering under load.

Is that bar centered or are you using the centering collars? Couldn't imagine any contact on the body from the lower endlink bolt like that.

Also, if you are getting any clunking, you may want to check if your endlink bolts are properly torqued. Just using an impact isn't enough. You need a allen bolt for the endlink threaded end and muscle it tight.

I had the Hotchkis bar and no interference issues here.

[qoncept]

It's centered with the collars. I had that interference on both sides. It's up high from when I had the links adjusted longer but it happened no matter what. The bar is a 22mm Whiteline.

[Hotchkis]

Hi qoncept,

When we designed the front sway bar, we made it a point for the sway bar end to clear the lower control arm at all conditions including droop. This is with any length end links. The dimension from the centerline axis to the sway bar end is actually a call out (check dimension) on our CAD drawing to ensure no interference is present. So we do try to make sure that this particular concern is addressed.

We've had a few customers call in about clunking noises from the front, but that was due to loose end links. Once the end links were tightened completely, the noise was fixed. We've had our sway bars in our test car for almost a year, with plenty of autocross runs and street driving and have not had any noise what so ever.

Please have your buddy with the Hotchkis bar give us a call and we will be happy to help him if he is having any issues. (562)907-7757

Cheers!
-Aaron

Originally Posted by qoncept

I can't speak for any other bars but my Whiteline and a buddy's Hotchkis bar both clunk. Something needs to be done with the endlinks, either replacing or cutting and shortening stock.

[Hotchkis]

Hi FastLane1000,

The front Hotchkis bar should have centering collars welded onto the bar. The installation pictures show an early prototype that did not have centering collars. Sorry for the confusion. Truth be told, when testing with the prototype we did not have any issues with centering. The main lever arm bends in the bar are close enough to the bushings, so it self centered itself. We added welded centering collars for production as a precautionary measure.

Thanks,
-Aaron

Originally Posted by FastLane1000

Mine just arrived today. No collars needed on the front bar to prevent the side to side movement?

[qoncept]

Thanks for the info, I'll let him know to check and give you a call if he doesn't get it.

[nickmaster]

I'll give that a try this weekend ... if i still get the clunk (while on stiffest setting) i'll just get the adjustable endlink

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by qoncept

Here we go. The first pic shows the clearance from the endlink to the control arm. I was about to say "static clearance" but it changes a bit when you turn the steering wheel, which I had to do to get the pic on the ground.

With the stock end links you may or may not be hitting statically. Hit a bump in the road or turn and it will for sure, though.

The second pic shows the inside of the fender. You can see some paint has been scraped off. Directly below that is the end of the sway bar and endlink, and if you look closely you can see the washers I added between them. That stud sticking out was what was interfering under load.

Did the whiteline adjustable endlinks solve your issues, or did you have these issues with those endlinks? I have a set of them about to go on with the RCE bars.

[qoncept]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Did the whiteline adjustable endlinks solve your issues, or did you have these issues with those endlinks? I have a set of them about to go on with the RCE bars.

I've had the whiteline links all along. Finally getting the adjustment right fixed. it.

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by qoncept

I've had the whiteline links all along. Finally getting the adjustment right fixed. it.

Cool. So keep them as short as possible and have as little bolt inboard as possible. Got it.

[qoncept]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Cool. So keep them as short as possible and have as little bolt inboard as possible. Got it.

Pretty much. I'd also make sure you get the bar to where you think is perfectly centered and then tighten the slip collars in place. I don't know if it will tend to walk at all but a sway bar clunk has become the most frustrating sound in the world to me and any little thing I can do...

[BlueDubbinTDI]

Originally Posted by Hotchkis

Hi mla163,

Front should be about 1-1/2 hrs and the rear is 3/4 hr when doing it on the floor with jack stands/floor ramps.

I've done this install so many times though, I've gotten it down to under an hour for the whole car when using a lift. Compared to other car makes we deal with, this is one of the easiest sway bar installs.

Good Luck!
-Aaron

ever done a mk6 GTI? not THAT is a piece of cake

[MaxRED13]

thanks, this worked out great. Had some difficulty following this with a ehiteline bar. Everything still worked out though. Very helpful DIY!