Innovate/Spritex/Bullet... What I found searching the web.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by robispec

Nice discussion but we made the extra whp on our last na dyno run lol
because that was the highest combo of all the na parts tested. Borla elh, over and mid pipe with the factory intermediate. pipe and muffler. Thats what we tuned the supercharger for

So the kit on your car has a header and the base map that'll come with the kit will be tuned to work with that header?

Can we get a full list of parts on your car that will aid in acceleration? I'm pretty sure you said you have a 4.7 final drive & E85, and now there's a header and half an exhaust system. Is there anything else?

Am I understanding this correctly, basically this "vq35" feeling motor is going to feel more like a K20 with mild bolt ons, to those of us that haven't done those mods and don't have E85 available? Or more to the point, all of the reviews of how this kit makes the car feel are completely invalid?

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by Jeff86

Just trying to help the community . After a lot of dyno research, the 2.5" produced the best overall results on the SCd cars under 300whp.

"The astute exhaust designer knows that you must balance flow capacity with velocity. You want the exhaust gases to exit the chamber and speed along at the highest velocity possible - you want a FAST exhaust stream. If you have two exhaust pulses of equal volume, one in a 2" pipe and one in a 3" pipe, the pulse in the 2" pipe will be traveling considerably FASTER than the pulse in the 3" pipe. While it is true that the narrower the pipe, the higher the velocity of the exiting gases, you want make sure the pipe is wide enough so that there is as little backpressure as possible while maintaining suitable exhaust gas velocity. Backpressure in it's most extreme form can lead to reversion of the exhaust stream - that is to say the exhaust flows backwards, which is not good. The trick is to have a pipe that that is as narrow as possible while having as close to zero backpressure as possible at the RPM range you want your power band to be located at. Exhaust pipe diameters are best suited to a particular RPM range. A smaller pipe diameter will produce higher exhaust velocities at a lower RPM but create unacceptably high amounts of backpressure at high rpm. Thus if your powerband is located 2-3000 RPM you'd want a narrower pipe than if your powerband is located at 8-9000RPM."

From the article here:
http://forums.tunedimports.net/showt...why-it-s-wrong

I believe we'd see some similar results here since this motor is actually happier in a somewhat lower rpm range.

Good post. In the end, the header and exhaust setup that makes the most power NA will be too "small" to make the most power with boost. How much variation in whp, torque, primary size and length, secondary size and length, etc etc is yet to be seen.

[Subzero]

A lot of people don't get that boost pressure is a residual measurement. CFM and temperature are more important leading indicators. Less boost and more power just seems counter-intuitive at first. When you add exhaust on a blower setup, boost typically drops but power goes up. You increased CFM of the motor. If you open up the inlet more before the blower, the boost rises because it can inhale easier. Colder temperatures will also look like less boost, but make more power. You'll only ever flow as much air as your tightest restriction. That could be the valve, tb, compressor inlet, or cam.

I'd like to know what kind of exhaust pressures are normal. I've never looked into it too deeply.

[robispec]

Check the build log lol
The 75 mm pulley on our car makes approximately seven psi at peak
We make about 10 % more than the gasoline car with the 80 mm pulley
To my knowledge the car will come with a base map for the stock intake stock exhaust California 91 octane
Kart boy is running the 75 mm pulley on a gasoline car talk to him about how it feels . If he can stop smiling long enough to give a coherent answer

Originally Posted by Calum

So the kit on your car has a header and the base map that'll come with the kit will be tuned to work with that header?

Can we get a full list of parts on your car that willaid in acceleration? I'm pretty sure you said you have a 4.7 final drive & E85, and now there's a header and half an exhaust system. Is there anything else?

Am I understanding this correctly, basically this "vq35" feeling motor is going to feel more like a K20 with mild bolt ons, to those of us that haven't done those mods and don't have E85 available? Or more to the point, all of the reviews of how this kit makes the car feel are completely invalid?

[JoeBoxer]

Originally Posted by Calum

So the kit on your car has a header and the base map that'll come with the kit will be tuned to work with that header?

Can we get a full list of parts on your car that will aid in acceleration? I'm pretty sure you said you have a 4.7 final drive & E85, and now there's a header and half an exhaust system. Is there anything else?

Am I understanding this correctly, basically this "vq35" feeling motor is going to feel more like a K20 with mild bolt ons, to those of us that haven't done those mods and don't have E85 available? Or more to the point, all of the reviews of how this kit makes the car feel are completely invalid?

Tom@kartboy just installed the kit on his car which is way closer to most people's car because of the things mentioned along with the weight reduction.

[tom@kartboy]

Its nowhere near as fast as my E63 wagon. Then again its 1/3 the price.
If anyone is in the SD area and wants a hotlap. i'm game.
My car is for the most part stockish. Minor suspension mods, Tires-wheels, along with our KB goodies. Thats about it.

[Subzero]

What diameter is the crank pulley? (Please mic across the tops of the grooves and not the bottom.)

[robispec]

Stock I never liked the non harmonic lightweight parts.

[tom@kartboy]

Originally Posted by Subzero

What diameter is the crank pulley? (Please mic across the tops of the grooves and not the bottom.)

I'm running our light weight KB pulley OEM diameter. 1 pound VS 5 stock.
i can get that number Monday. Home with the kids now.

[TRD-X]

Originally Posted by Subzero

That's the sound of someone trying to enjoy their car, without getting a ticket. .

*Mash*shift*Mash*part throttle with clutch slip*wait for iiiiiiiiit*Mash*Wheeeeeeee!

Every single one of us has done this.

Great now I need to go change my pants thanks guys.....

[robispec]

Originally Posted by tom@kartboy

I'm running our light weight KB pulley OEM diameter. 1 pound VS 5 stock.
i can get that number Monday. Home with the kids now.

Damn i've lightend everything else lol...

[Jeff86]

Just for compare, the 280whp I made (Honda) was with a 4-2-1 race header and 2.5" header back exhaust with a Jackson Racing Roots SC no cooling on a K20A2 93 octane. This is the exhaust setup that most of us ran and the guys who tried 3" yielded slightly poorer performance (especially low/mid) and did not hit higher peak hp numbers.

This is why I believe a similar setup would be optimum here. It's a high compression 4 banger. It's happier somewhat lower rpms and it does not breath as well.

I frankly wouldn't expect to make K series power, but as I've said, the twin screw is better than a roots in every way. I'm thinkin 250+ uncooled and I don't want the cooler. A nice header, exhaust (2.5" imo) and an oil cooler and done.

[Draco-REX]

Slightly OT but, are any of you that are running lightened flywheels and lightened pulleys seeing misfire codes?

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by mines13

The current price of $3495 is including the ECUTEK cable and flash. (Assuming there are no ECUTEK, or other component cost increases.) This has been mentioned, but the cable is treated as a loss leader and the tune as a development expense. These costs are absorbed in to the total price of the kit. If you factor in the average price of an ECUTEK cable and canned flash (included) the supercharger kit's price is even lower then some JDM exhaust systems. Short version, we just do not make any money on the cable...

WOW...