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Old 09-02-2015, 12:38 PM   #1611
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Take the undertray off, and look for any rub or wear marks on it. If you do have something, it doesn't have quite enough space from the turbo kit at that point. It may not be touching normally, but is close enough that when the motor is under load and torqued to one side it touches. The reason it may only happen under light load is because, under heavy load, it's pushed against the tray and doesn't rattle.
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Old 09-02-2015, 04:52 PM   #1612
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Does anybody know where the little passage goes that's right bellow the cam where the cam plate goes? I was wondering because I'm afraid I might have spilled a little bit of silicone there when I was resealing it at one point.

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Old 09-02-2015, 07:24 PM   #1613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVOturboworld View Post
Take the undertray off, and look for any rub or wear marks on it. If you do have something, it doesn't have quite enough space from the turbo kit at that point. It may not be touching normally, but is close enough that when the motor is under load and torqued to one side it touches. The reason it may only happen under light load is because, under heavy load, it's pushed against the tray and doesn't rattle.
I ended up taking the bumper off, wasn't too difficult and allowed a better vantage. I found a pretty noticeable wear mark where the driver side crash beam was rubbing the charge piping. I cut some extra hose and wedged it between the two, highly unlikely it'd come off since they are sandwiched pretty well. I also found that the intake box was slightly touching the hard piping so I moved that all forward and to the passanger side, and repositioned the angle of the neck at the tbolt.

Haven't had a chance to test it but after searching everything from the foglights to the windshield wiper reservoir I feel fairly confident I found the source of noise.

EDIT: well the noise is still present. Almost sounds like a pulley grinding, as it changes pitch with RPM. I know my PS pump has wiggles a lot when it's turning, maybe the bearing went up.

Last edited by bryan767; 09-03-2015 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:49 AM   #1614
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Originally Posted by bryan767 View Post
I ended up taking the bumper off, wasn't too difficult and allowed a better vantage. I found a pretty noticeable wear mark where the driver side crash beam was rubbing the charge piping. I cut some extra hose and wedged it between the two, highly unlikely it'd come off since they are sandwiched pretty well. I also found that the intake box was slightly touching the hard piping so I moved that all forward and to the passanger side, and repositioned the angle of the neck at the tbolt.

Haven't had a chance to test it but after searching everything from the foglights to the windshield wiper reservoir I feel fairly confident I found the source of noise.

EDIT: well the noise is still present. Almost sounds like a pulley grinding, as it changes pitch with RPM. I know my PS pump has wiggles a lot when it's turning, maybe the bearing went up.
I had rattles/noises in four places since I installed my kit:
1. Heat shield that comes with kit.
2. Overpipe hitting the crossmember (check for marks)
3. Charge pipe hitting the pully bolts
4. Underbody tray vibration (take it off completely and see if the noise is still there)

I too can't stand any rattles in my car.

Good luck!
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Old 09-04-2015, 03:54 AM   #1615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skorov View Post
I had rattles/noises in four places since I installed my kit:
1. Heat shield that comes with kit.
2. Overpipe hitting the crossmember (check for marks)
3. Charge pipe hitting the pully bolts
4. Underbody tray vibration (take it off completely and see if the noise is still there)

I too can't stand any rattles in my car.

Good luck!

I had a few but I managed to fix most of them and now only get the usual exhaust rattle


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Old 09-04-2015, 04:02 AM   #1616
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I have a question about the avo base tune. Does the tune limit the rpms depending on oil temp or coolant temp? I remember a couple of times while getting in my car after it's been sitting for a long time, I would bring the rpms up pretty high while driving only to have the engine feel like it's hitting a rev limiter. It would literally feel like hitting rev limiter at around 4k rpm in first gear. It's a harsh feeling, harsh like hitting a wall. This only happened a few times in the mornings. And it only happens when step on it. I'm not having any problems with it, just wondering if it's normal due to the base tune.


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Old 09-04-2015, 11:07 PM   #1617
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Yeah, I wouldn't drive like that.
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Old 09-06-2015, 12:16 PM   #1618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skorov View Post
I had rattles/noises in four places since I installed my kit:
1. Heat shield that comes with kit.
2. Overpipe hitting the crossmember (check for marks)
3. Charge pipe hitting the pully bolts
4. Underbody tray vibration (take it off completely and see if the noise is still there)

I too can't stand any rattles in my car.

Good luck!

Well checked all of those spots mentioned and it wasn't the issue. I did find a SS braided hose touching the frame near the driver side of the trans, wrapped it in some extra hose cut in half long ways and I believe I have finally sorted my annoying rattle!!

After checking everything again this weekend I spotted a good deal of dryed coolant coming from the turbo coolant feed line. I found both ends of that hose had turned into rock and were cracked. After spending literally 4 1/2 hours of trying to get the hose off (essentially had to chip away at it with a flat head) I finally had the entire hose replaced.
If you plan on replacing this line (throttle body to turbo coolant feed) you'll need some 5/16th high temp heater house. My local NAPA didn't have 5/16 so I went with 1/2 which is a bit larger then needed. I found that the turbo feed fit perfectly but the throttle body feed was really small. Smaller then 5/16. I still used the hose but used two wide worm clamps to install - will keep an eye on it.
Another tip is to buy the protect-a-boot (spark plug boots) sleeves. All autoparts stores will carry this, doesn't have to be DEI brand. Put one sleeve on the hose after connecting the turbo feed and push it all the way down. This will protect that hose from high radiant temp from the turbo, and protect the hose from rubbing against the oil feed and body.

Oh and be ready to catch about 1/4th bucket worth of coolant after popping the bottom line.

After test driving, no more leaks and no more rattles!(knock on wood)

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Old 09-07-2015, 12:17 AM   #1619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan767 View Post
Well checked all of those spots mentioned and it wasn't the issue. I did find a SS braided hose touching the frame near the driver side of the trans, wrapped it in some extra hose cut in half long ways and I believe I have finally sorted my annoying rattle!!

After checking everything again this weekend I spotted a good deal of dryed coolant coming from the turbo coolant feed line. I found both ends of that hose had turned into rock and were cracked. After spending literally 4 1/2 hours of trying to get the hose off (essentially had to chip away at it with a flat head) I finally had the entire hose replaced.
If you plan on replacing this line (throttle body to turbo coolant feed) you'll need some 5/16th high temp heater house. My local NAPA didn't have 5/16 so I went with 1/2 which is a bit larger then needed. I found that the turbo feed fit perfectly but the throttle body feed was really small. Smaller then 5/16. I still used the hose but used two wide worm clamps to install - will keep an eye on it.
Another tip is to buy the protect-a-boot (spark plug boots) sleeves. All autoparts stores will carry this, doesn't have to be DEI brand. Put one sleeve on the hose after connecting the turbo feed and push it all the way down. This will protect that hose from high radiant temp from the turbo, and protect the hose from rubbing against the oil feed and body.

Oh and be ready to catch about 1/4th bucket worth of coolant after popping the bottom line.

After test driving, no more leaks and no more rattles!(knock on wood)


After having to deal with that same issue, I installed fittings onto the coolant lines themselves to be able to disconnect them if I ever wanted to remove the turbo. It's saved me a ton of time over the past year.
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Old 09-11-2015, 09:38 PM   #1620
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After having to deal with that same issue, I installed fittings onto the coolant lines themselves to be able to disconnect them if I ever wanted to remove the turbo. It's saved me a ton of time over the past year.
What kind of fittings, -An slip on or something? I thought about doing the same thing lol
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Old 09-12-2015, 11:09 AM   #1621
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What kind of fittings, -An slip on or something? I thought about doing the same thing lol
Yeah AN Fittings would make it much easier. You can also use a barbed union fitting with fuel injector style clips

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Old 09-12-2015, 05:57 PM   #1622
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Anybody running lower springs with the kit? I was thinking of buying trd or those yellow something springs to go along with my car.

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Old 09-13-2015, 11:51 AM   #1623
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Anybody running lower springs with the kit? I was thinking of buying trd or those yellow something springs to go along with my car.

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I used to be on lowering springs, now I'm on coils. I prefer the ability to raise it back up during winter months.

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Old 09-13-2015, 11:53 AM   #1624
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I used to be on lowering springs, now I'm on coils. I prefer the ability to raise it back up during winter months.

Any problems with the springs? Which were you running?

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