Aftermarket Crank Pulley Install

[tonystewart]

If anyone uses this once, they will buy it.
24" Breaker bar (45 year old Snap On breaker bar) in the other hand does the trick

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by tonystewart

If anyone uses this once, they will buy it.

Gonna pick this sucker up. Looks like it's $44.95. Not sure how often I'll be using it, so maybe I'll pass it on to the next guy on Long Island that needs it and we can just keep passing it forward

Is our crank pulley compatible with the 2002-2012 WRX / STI? That's what the tool is listed for.

EDIT: I went out one more time and decided to hell with it, I'll break the breaker bar if need be. This time I took the airbox out (I just took the tubes out before and thought I had enough room). With the additional room, I think I was able to get more leverage on the bar and it finally broke free.

Add me to the list of satisfied Lightweight Crank Pulley users

[BAE]

I made it thanks to these great instructions !

Struggled like h.... to loosen the bolt. Ended up using a 4 ft long pipe from my kids trampoline outside the ratchet to get enough torque. :-) After that it was a breeze. Spent more than an hour.

Did I feel any difference on the test drive? I don't know. The throttle response feels a little crisper. When I start in 1st it feels a little like a lightweight flywheel. You have to be a little more sensitive with clutch and throttle. Anyway, it good to know the car accelerates slightly faster.

[ngabdala]

Yesterday I installed the Perrin Crank Pulley.

Breaker bar and torque wrench 1/2 drive were $10 and $11 at Harbor Freight.

I forgot to use the torque wrench to tighten the bolt and accidentally used the breaker bar. I put all my muscle into it until the bolt couldn't turn any more.

I haven't noticed any problems. I also haven't noticed the car being more rev happy. Granted I only drove it for about 5 miles afterwards.

Is this bad? Should I go back in and loosen it then tighten with torque wrench at the 94lbs as described in this DIY?

[Calum]

Typically a bolt is torqued to a point within its elastic range, meaning the bolt is stretched, but not to a point that it won't return to the same size it was before. If you go beyond that you get into the yield range, where the bolt is permenately deformed, or stretched. The bolt does still have the ability to stay fastened, but it won't deal well with expansion and contraction due to heat or anything else. Beyond the yield range is where the bolt fails.

Personally, I would replace the bolt and hope you didn't mess up the threads on the crank snout.

[ngabdala]

I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

The wheel near the MAF sensor stops while the car is idle and makes a clicking noise. The belt still moves and after a few seconds the wheel starts spinning again. Any ideas?

[Hix]

^^ A/C Compressor

[Calum]

The compressor has a clutch to unload it when the discharge pressure gets high enough or when you go to WOT.

[zoomzoomers]

Originally Posted by neutron256

Since I have an automatic I had to get the Grimmspeed crank pulley tool. Worked like a charm.

Is this the same tool required for an AT? I'd like to know if any of you guys have the tool and maybe would loan it out for a fee. Since I have the rev dip I've been really interested in getting the pulley.

BTW, what are you feelings about the pulley and the car after the install?

[neutron256]

Originally Posted by zoomzoomers

Is this the same tool required for an AT? I'd like to know if any of you guys have the tool and maybe would loan it out for a fee. Since I have the rev dip I've been really interested in getting the pulley.

BTW, what are you feelings about the pulley and the car after the install?

Yep mine is an AT and it worked great for removing/installing the pulley. If you were local (I'm in Minneapolis) I'd be happy to let you borrow my pulley tool, but I'm certainly not going to start shipping tools around for people to use.

I felt like the pully makes a nice difference, and really helps with the torque dip issue.

[Marrk]

Brilliant DIY. Abundantly clear. Great photos.


Question: What's is the benefit of this mod? Quicker acceleration? What is the deficit, if any? Wear, tear, reliability issues? Compatibility issues with the other parts of the engine?


Thanks, man. Great job. :happy0180:

[zoomzoomers]

Originally Posted by neutron256

Yep mine is an AT and it worked great for removing/installing the pulley. If you were local (I'm in Minneapolis) I'd be happy to let you borrow my pulley tool, but I'm certainly not going to start shipping tools around for people to use.

I felt like the pully makes a nice difference, and really helps with the torque dip issue.

Can you please send me the link to where you bought it for and how much you paid? Thanks.

z

[neutron256]

Originally Posted by zoomzoomers

Can you please send me the link to where you bought it for and how much you paid? Thanks.

z

I bought mine from Grimmspeed they're a local company here in Minneapolis, but you can buy it from their website, or one of many resellers. It goes for around $50.

[JJGraphiX]

This is one of, if not the easiest cars I've seen to replace a crank pulley (Not the mention the fantastic write-up)... myself and I'm sure plenty of other members have had the pulley placement from hell in the past.

On my previous ride, the crank pulley was so hard to get off due to placement the general method used was the effective yet potentially dangerous ignition tap method to get it loose... Wedging the breaker bar from the pulley to the ground, putting the key in and TAPPING the starter just enough to slightly move the crank without coming close to starting the engine... thus letting the engine do the work.

I strongly advise against that for this car for numerous reasons plus you'd need the longest breaker bar on the market.

Be grateful this is so easy. The pulley will give a little but follow the procedures and it will break free... Just make sure you're pulling it in the right direction