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12-02-2017, 09:35 PM | #1 |
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Endlink nuts keep getting loose
So 2 weeks ago I installed my coilovers. I had a clunk on my front passenger side and sure enough the bottom endlink nut wasn’t tight enough. So I grabbed a 17 mm wrench and an Allen key because apparently it just keeps spinning. Now I noticed that this nut was starting to strip, so I figured I’ll replace it further down the road. Anyway the problem was solved but 3 days later the clunk comes back and I’m thinking how the hell is this happening.
Should I just go buy a torque wrench and torque that nut to spec and go buy a new nut? Will that likely keep things tight? It’s really Weird because I only get the clunk sound from that area.... |
12-02-2017, 10:10 PM | #2 |
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This makes no sense. The tie rod or end link is either stripped or it isn't. Nuts don't just start to strip and then are "solved". If it's started to strip, it's stripped, and you should replace it before it comes off completely while driving and you lose control of your car.
If I had a known faulty tie rod nut AND it was clunking I wouldn't drive it 5 feet. Fix it ASAP before you hurt yourself. In answer to "how the hell is this happening", you've either over-tightened and stripped it, cross threaded it, or under-tightened it. Each scenario means that the joint may clunk, damaging the taper on either the ball joint or the upright. Unless you have a calibrated elbow, always use a torque wrench for these types of connections. The more you drive with this fault the more likely you are to do permanent damage to the taper, or risk a complete failure. HTH |
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12-02-2017, 10:24 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
I actually think I may have under tightened it. So tomorrow I’m definitely going to buy a torque wrench. Can I just go buy a new bottom endlink nut @ a parts store? |
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12-03-2017, 07:30 AM | #4 |
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Well, can't assume it's a bad bolt. In my experience it's time for a new tie rod. The bolt may not be the problem but the screw hex thingy. That's part of the tie rod. If that's all losey goosey then yeah time for a new one. It should be nice and stiff.
Torque wrench should be already in your tool box, so that's alway there. But I don't think it will help you out in this case.
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12-03-2017, 02:40 PM | #5 |
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+1 to replacing both end link and nuts. Get a fresh start with the right stuff.
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12-04-2017, 02:00 AM | #6 |
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Your loose endlink will cause your car to explode and you will die or at least hurt yourself badly... LMAO
But seriously. Just replace it. Or remove it completely if you think it might become totally disengaged from the lower mount until you get a replacement. I've unhooked endlinks purposely, doing entire sessions on the track and I'm still alive.
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12-04-2017, 04:50 AM | #7 |
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Wait what? I thought he was talking about the steering tie rod. Didn't realise "end link" refers to sway bar in this case, so no issue even if it fails completely. Op still needs a torque wrench though.
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12-04-2017, 05:56 PM | #8 |
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Just as a point of reference. As you install stiffer suspension systems, NVH increases and you'll find more things "mysteriously " loose. No more mystery. More NVH, more vibrations and loose nuts, more maintenance required to ensure stuff doesn't fall off.
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12-05-2017, 10:50 PM | #9 |
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What do you guys call end links then? "Sway couplers?" lol
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12-05-2017, 11:23 PM | #10 |
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12-06-2017, 12:12 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNZIJmEZ91g"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNZIJmEZ91g[/ame]
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cowardice is the mother of cruelty. Last edited by solidONE; 12-06-2017 at 12:30 AM. |
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