I'm a dumbass... please help me assess damages

[SigmaHyperion]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I'm crossing my fingers it doesn't go up for my speeding ticket, lol

Good luck.

I'd managed to avoid ever getting a ticket to actually report on my record, but one popped up for the last renewal (and I was pretty sure I'd done what I needed to keep that one from reporting too, but apparently not). Was about a 30% increase (and I'm no young guy). And I called in inquiring about the rate increase, and they re-ran a whole new quote for me from scratch to determine precisely what variables were making my quote do what -- and that increase was wholly attributed to that one ticket.

Now, some good news, and I can't speak for anyone else as I'd never used them for more than 6-12mo at a time before finding (and liking) Progressive, but I've been with Progressive for 10 years and I've found that they find out about things WAY after they happen (there's been a few other things not speeding ticket related that popped up over the years that affected my rate). This ticket for example is TWO YEARS old, and just popped up. And they fall off their records after 3 years. So I've really only got 2 6mo periods to worry about paying the higher price for.

It's probably just luck on my part based on when they pull motor vehicle records. It costs them money, so they only do it every 12-24 months for regular customers. So, hopefully, if you do see a rate increase at least it may be a while before you do.

[Demandred7]

Unless your driving record is squeaky clean, pay out of pocket. Insurance is only useful when you total your car or if someone was hurt. An "at fault" claim can have disastrous consequences with your rates. I won't bore everyone with the back story, but, suffice it to say I was paying $450 per month ($5400 per year) for making an "at fault" claim (and it took years for my rates to normalize). Prior to that, I was paying $120 per month ($1440 per year). The numbers make more sense to pay out of pocket vs the rise in your rates. Granted, I had one speeding ticket previously and one fail to report associated with the accident that caused my damages (I hit a street sign (which as it turns out, is public property, and needs to be called in to the police regardless of the value of damages (trees count as the same as well)). Learn from others mistakes and don't go through what I did.

[FR-Sizzle]

Itll buff right out

[Efferalgan]

I'm sure you could get tail lights for cheap from guys who swapped to aftermarket ones. I'm about to do that but I'm rather far away

[Whitigir]

Originally Posted by SigmaHyperion

Good luck.

I'd managed to avoid ever getting a ticket to actually report on my record, but one popped up for the last renewal (and I was pretty sure I'd done what I needed to keep that one from reporting too, but apparently not). Was about a 30% increase (and I'm no young guy). And I called in inquiring about the rate increase, and they re-ran a whole new quote for me from scratch to determine precisely what variables were making my quote do what -- and that increase was wholly attributed to that one ticket.

Now, some good news, and I can't speak for anyone else as I'd never used them for more than 6-12mo at a time before finding (and liking) Progressive, but I've been with Progressive for 10 years and I've found that they find out about things WAY after they happen (there's been a few other things not speeding ticket related that popped up over the years that affected my rate). This ticket for example is TWO YEARS old, and just popped up. And they fall off their records after 3 years. So I've really only got 2 6mo periods to worry about paying the higher price for.

It's probably just luck on my part based on when they pull motor vehicle records. It costs them money, so they only do it every 12-24 months for regular customers. So, hopefully, if you do see a rate increase at least it may be a while before you do.

Sygma said it best. Insurance will never go easy on any type of tickets....unless parking tickets....because it s not reported.

Joking a side. Speeding tickets are the next to the worst as an excuse to raise your premium, and worse of the worse is an accident at fault.

I could see if this was your first speeding ticket, they may forgive as well, if you had some good explainations, but that is slim. Why not raise with a good excuse ?

About the insurance file. I too did it twice. One was in a parking lot, someone hit it and ran away for 2800 in damage. Another one i hit a deer for 2300 damage. No premium raise. Generally, damage like these are not cheap. It doesnt matter about what car you drive. I repeat what sigma said "paint is paint, labor is labor"

If you value your car look, and plan to keep it, bring it to a good shop, file insurance. If not, you will regret it.

[chulooz]

Thousands when done right; its cheaper to watch where you are going.

[imom]

When folks goes to the doctor and use their insurance for surgery or procedure, how much does the office charge? And why the folks pay out of pocket, how much does the office charge? Are they the same charge? From my experience it's a ratio of 2 to 1 or 4 to 1.

Paint would be the same price if they use factory paint. But labor isn't labor. ignoring the frame damage possibility aside, that damage is not $2500 to $3000 of work. If you want to go cheap meaning not replacing the bumper, it's welding the crack with the special epoxy/adhesives they have and then bondo. The taillight you can get from this forum from $150 for the pair. The crease, can be mended by some tack weld and then pulled the crease out and shaped finished with bondo.

Paint isn't paint... factory paint has a lot of orange peel and even streaks. Custom paint jobs or high end luxury cars (non BMW) will have fine finish no orange peels... the cost is different. It's up to the OP to do their homework... if you live in CA and not in TX the prices vary for insurance... perfect insurance record will still cost 3 to 4 times more than smaller towns and cities.

Demandred7 is another example of folks I see get shafted by bad advice or thinking insurance is there to help you. At fault is going to affect you, but there are many other factors: where you live, type of car, age, etc. The OP seems very young based on their post... it's a pity if they don't do their homework and just take advice from strangers including from myself. I only chime in because I see some very interesting comments.

Blended paint in the area should run about $200 to $300
$100 for the broken clips behind the bumper
$600 to $700 would be for the labor charge to fix the area.

How much do you expect to pay for labor per hour? How many hours do you think it takes to fix that area? If you want to replace everything it's not going to matter... the paint meter will still pick up that previous work was done. That kind of work is going to require paint blending onto metal and it's going to show when measured.

I don't see any reason to get a new bumper... the metal is going to be different levels of paint per the meter. Folks are so focused on that one corner by what about the other side of the bumper...the driver side... how are body shop going to blend that side? Blend the driver side as well? Best to use the same bumper and fix the parts that needs fixing...plastic doesn't show up on the paint meter...just require one corner to fix and paint match.

Based on $2500 estimate... forum members are saying that takes 2 1/2 days of labor to fix? $75 per hour for body shop or folks estimating $150 per hour? $300 per hour? Body shops are not doctors or lawyers office. Painting and body shop repair is an art, but it's not $200K to $400K of education fees. Just remember it's thin soft factory paint folks...orange peel and streaks if you can see it...if you don't... then shouldn't have to worry about good work: your eyes won't bother you then. Good luck.

[whtchocla7e]

I'm not so young anymore. I let the emotions take over a little bit while writing the original post.

I never filled an insurance claim before, never caused an accident, and only got one speeding ticket about 10 years ago. I pay $1000 a year for full coverage with Geico.

I've been learning to drive without the radio on for about two weeks. It started to grow on me - driving without any distractions.

Then, out of nowhere, under no threat of danger, I make a dumb, unforced mistake..


It's not the repair cost that scares me most, it's the thought of turning my car over to people I don't absolutely trust; and finding the time to do it between work and a hectic graduate school schedule.

That alone is making me want to go the insurance route. I'm already distracted and retaking classes would cost me more than a very probable insurance premium increase. Well, I have today to think things through. I will stop by a local body shop tomorrow for a quick and dirty quote.

Thanks for all your opinions.

[dehydratedH2O]

Originally Posted by imom

...welding the crack with the special epoxy/adhesives they have and then bondo.
...tack weld and then pulled the crease out and shaped finished with bondo.

oh god... just... no. at least personally, I'd rather have my car fully fixed than have it be a rolling pile of bondo and tack welds.

[dehydratedH2O]

Originally Posted by whtchocla7e

I
It's not the repair cost that scares me most, it's the thought of turning my car over to people I don't absolutely trust.

Get angie's list. It's like $8/yr and you'll find the best body shop in your area without any bias.

[Rustyspoon]

Originally Posted by dehydratedH2O

oh god... just... no. at least personally, I'd rather have my car fully fixed than have it be a rolling pile of bondo and tack welds.

Why is bondo considered such a bad thing? I am redoing a 40 year old car and some areas are covered in bondo (hood) and I gave up on stripping some of the 30 year old bondo off. Damn that stuff sticks and you don't see it in the paint.

[Figo]

Seems like it's a good time to do Rocket Bunny.

[dehydratedH2O]

Originally Posted by Rustyspoon

Why is bondo considered such a bad thing? I am redoing a 40 year old car and some areas are covered in bondo (hood) and I gave up on stripping some of the 30 year old bondo off. Damn that stuff sticks and you don't see it in the paint.

bondo is only for cosmetics, and it isn't a "real" fix. it shows that a car has been damaged and the owner didn't bother to have it repaired to its original state. especially for an area like the rear quarter that can take impact damage, the car should be *structurally* repaired, not just cosmetically. it's the difference between wearing a (sometimes very well) patched pair of jeans and wearing new ones.

[Byebye]

Originally Posted by whtchocla7e

I was backing into a spot and met a damn metal post.. Please no jokes guys, I'm already devastated enough.


What am I looking at in damages?


I already know the taillight is a bitch... I would be scared to buy one without a warranty too given the moisture issues... Is it salvageable? Can I buy the clear shroud separately and swap it?


I can live with the damaged bumper but unfortunately the damage goes a little further up. The gap between the body and the trunk door also looks a little bigger, too, so now I'm really scared.
I'm trying to figure out if I can avoid making an insurance claim.


Motherfu***...

Take it to a couple shops that do free estimates and get the best price. Then negotiate what you want and do not want fixed. Set a budget with the shop and tell them that's the cap. Prioritize what you can and can't live with as far as repairs.