Alignment FAQ Thread

[x808drifter]

Sounds to me like you should just stick to the hair dresser mobile.

[skeeler]

If the standard means of gaining adjustability is camber bolts in the front and LCAs in the rear, what features should I look for in each? It doesn't seem like the camber bolts vary much from one manufacturer to another; they are just bolts, so there's not that much to them. There seem to be quite a variety of LCAs, though.

[jamal]

Impressive that the miata allows that much adjustment stock. That is really not common.

Also, if you really are concerned with getting the alignment ride for track use you need a tire temp probe.

Originally Posted by skeeler

If the standard means of gaining adjustability is camber bolts in the front and LCAs in the rear, what features should I look for in each? It doesn't seem like the camber bolts vary much from one manufacturer to another; they are just bolts, so there's not that much to them. There seem to be quite a variety of LCAs, though.

The bolts all look the same because only like one manufacturer actually makes them all (SPC I think), and then they're repackaged by eibach, whiteline, ingalls, parts stores, etc.

Same goes for some of the rear LCAs. Take a look at SPC's arms, and then superpro and whiteline. The color is different and that's about it.

So anyway, for an inexpensive set of arms go with spc, whiteline, or superpro.

Then for a fancy arm with turnbuckle style adjustment and an inner rod end the cusco and velox/verus arms are both pretty nice. Cheaper versions with a budget exposed rod end are not a good idea IMO.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by skeeler

If your car offers enough range of adjustment, then you don't have to max it out.

On the other hand, if I can get as much as I want/need, I don't care if I have any adjustability beyond that.

My NC is at -2.4° front and -2.1° rear, and I've been at least 0.2° more than that. On that car, you want to run less static camber in the rear, due to the steeper camber curve of the 5-link setup, so if I were stuck at the max camber in the rear--I don't even know what that is, because I've never needed it--I'd have less drive on the straights. Adjustability is imperative.

Not if you can get the camber settings reasonably close without it... But generally unadjustable cars are not going to have *excess* rear camber, and often once lowered it's about where you'd want it anyway, around -2.

For me, for street and track, if I can get -2 all around on the BRZ I'll be OK with that. Would like to get -2.5 front, but not going to coilovers on it any time soon... Will see what I can get with camber bolts and bringing it down 1". For me, street/track/time trials, I dont think adjustability beyond that is imperative, and I'll just run it maxed out all the time. And tune balance with sway bars if necessary.

[gpvecchi]

It seems that best angles for this car for Street use are: camber 1.5 degrees for front and rear and 0 toe for front. But which toe for rear? Thanks!

[Vital]

Originally Posted by gpvecchi

It seems that best angles for this car for Street use are: camber 1.5 degrees for front and rear and 0 toe for front. But which toe for rear? Thanks!

That should be fine, but ideally you want more camber in front and a little less in the back. You want 1/16 toe-in rear.

[venturaII]

Originally Posted by skeeler

If the standard means of gaining adjustability is camber bolts in the front and LCAs in the rear, what features should I look for in each? It doesn't seem like the camber bolts vary much from one manufacturer to another; they are just bolts, so there's not that much to them. There seem to be quite a variety of LCAs, though.

Just throwing it out there...there are adjustable lower rear arms available that are stamped steel, like OEM, and they won't break the bank like the fancier aluminum aftermarket ones, plus they use OEM-style rubber bushings instead of spherical rod ends so they should be far more durable if you live in an area with poor weather.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...504006&jsn=317

[IndyBRZed]

This past weekend I did the Swift Sport Springs (BRZ) and SPC lower 14mm camber bolts and swapped the upper 16mm with the lower 14mm. We were using a Harbor Freight angle gauge to guess with.

Have appointment with alignment shop to do -2.0 front, -1.5 or whatever fixed stock is, as per this thread 0 toe front and rear.

Unaligned it feels really good on the blizzack snows, yep still snows here in Indiana in late april, Uhg.

When it stops snowing and they start fixing some of these craters in the road. I can swap on my New 17x8.25 XXR with 245/40/17 hankook V2.

Going to be a real fun DD

[churchx]

IndyBRZed: If snow performance matters and alignment is mentioned, then better not go to camber more then -1.5 or even -1. With very limited grip available on snow/ice, grip/traction is lost way before there is lot of sidewall flex that might be needed to compensate with static camber to restore contact patch & grip, so lesser camber angles will provide flatter/better contact/grip on snow/ice. -2 and higher .. sounds more for performance alignment on dry tarmac. (stock alignment btw is 0 camber front, -1.2 rear)

[snuff58]

Just read all of this. many thank yous to all who posted!



This is my 3rd year tracking my '14 BRZ. I've maxed out the stock suspension and my tires are pleading for an upgrade!! (alignment w/ camber bolts: camber: -1.25° front, -1.5° rear, toe: front 1/32" out, each, rear 1/32" in, each) I'm reading through all I can to decide. A well known BRZ/FRS racer has suggested Tein Flex A's for track and street. I intend to do rear LCA's. I will lower no more than 1". Will I need to replace rear toe links at 1" lower?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by snuff58

Just read all of this. many thank yous to all who posted!



This is my 3rd year tracking my '14 BRZ. I've maxed out the stock suspension and my tires are pleading for an upgrade!! (alignment w/ camber bolts: camber: -1.25° front, -1.5° rear, toe: front 1/32" out, each, rear 1/32" in, each) I'm reading through all I can to decide. A well known BRZ/FRS racer has suggested Tein Flex A's for track and street. I intend to do rear LCA's. I will lower no more than 1". Will I need to replace rear toe links at 1" lower?

You will not need to replace rear toe links at a 1 inch drop. That said, I really don't like the stock toe links.

Alignment specs will depend on spring rates and tire choice. You will want more camber than that if you track your car.

- Andrew

[ZDan]

Rear LCAs, why does everybody think they need these? You don't. Front camber plates would be a good move though.

Originally Posted by snuff58

This is my 3rd year tracking my '14 BRZ. I've maxed out the stock suspension and my tires are pleading for an upgrade!! (alignment w/ camber bolts: camber: -1.25° front, -1.5° rear, toe: front 1/32" out, each, rear 1/32" in, each) I'm reading through all I can to decide. A well known BRZ/FRS racer has suggested Tein Flex A's for track and street. I intend to do rear LCA's. I will lower no more than 1". Will I need to replace rear toe links at 1" lower?

[churchx]

Because Rear LCAs is cheapest way to add camber adjustment in rear with sufficient range (i don't count "unofficial" H&R camberbolt usage in rear as much of an option, as due small range they can do only for evening out. Nor do i count as "cheaper" eccentric whiteline bushings, as installing them and/or adjusting with them is PITA and savings on a bit smaller price go down the drain paid on alignment tech time/work)?
Or you wanted arguing that getting alignment in rear or upping camber in rear aswell for track use is not needed? Sure not needed, if one doesn't want to get max grip and even tire wear.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Rear LCAs, why does everybody think they need these? You don't. Front camber plates would be a good move though.

Beyond what Church said about rear LCAs (which is spot on), I would also point out that camber plates are required.

I can easily achieve -3 front with camber bolts and a slotted strut on my set-up (and never had slippage in 100k+ miles between slotted and non-slotted struts). And I don't have to worry about bearings or whatever else up top needing to be serviced while enjoying a softer ride with my OEM top hats.

But camber plates may be best for some people. Suspension is a very individually defined set-up based on goals and driver preference to get the adjustability needed for the intended purpose while keeping/sacrificing comfort level.