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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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07-29-2021, 03:57 PM | #29 |
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I know lower oil temp would equal higher oil pressure because of oil viscosity, but wouldn't the effects of cavitation be less severe because of the lower oil temp?
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07-29-2021, 04:09 PM | #30 |
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That was my initial thought but I was getting more cavitation at higher temps before.
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07-29-2021, 04:43 PM | #31 | |
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1. Oil viscosity 2. Lower effect of cavitation Though the question remains: Is low 40's PSI at redline enough for the FA20? I agree that higher oil pressure/lower oil temps = better safety margin but I am still on the fence about adding an oil cooler. Broken oil lines leading to lost engines are not uncommon. Longer warm up times is also a concern for a street car with the potential of overcooling. For the average user that does maybe 4-5 hours of actual track driving per season, I don't know if it's worth the potential trade off.
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07-29-2021, 04:48 PM | #32 | |
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07-29-2021, 05:23 PM | #33 |
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Does the overflow tank fills up more than usual (or even shoots coolant out the top)? I had a similar setup to you and the only thing that made it overheat was the head gasket that went bad and it was pushing compression and heat into the water. Test your rad water for carbon in it, its the easiest way to tell you you are pushing stuff from the cylinders into the coolant (and hence, a bad head gastket).
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07-29-2021, 07:51 PM | #34 | |
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07-29-2021, 08:12 PM | #35 |
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About 60K when I started doing some autoX then track day. Probably 45K with oil cooler.
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07-30-2021, 07:04 PM | #36 |
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I'm not behind cavitation (yet).
I think obvious culprits needs to be looked at like head gasket or thermostat. I'm racing with 6 degrees advanced over stock on 100 oct (doesn't burn as cool as E85), in a draft on a 90 degree day on an OEM radiator and temps aren't a concern. Just pulled my data from Portland: 90 degree day, lots of time drafting, 30 minute sprint race. Never saw a water temp above 210.2F on the hottest lap. Oil peaked at 244.4 on that lap as well with center mounted greddy oil cooler. This was with 0w-40 oil.
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07-30-2021, 08:11 PM | #37 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to NoHaveMSG For This Useful Post: | Icecreamtruk (08-01-2021) |
07-30-2021, 09:52 PM | #38 |
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With all that cooling at least it's an easy fix. But it makes sense
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07-30-2021, 10:59 PM | #39 |
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I jumped right into the mod pit with you.
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08-01-2021, 07:56 PM | #40 |
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Also kind of unrelated to it but the last post by @rice_classic made me think about it. I have an LS1 under the hood now and kept a stock sized koyo rad. No fans, no shrouds, only ducted in the front (bumper to rad) and vents in the hood. Water temp is at a solid 196F all the time, regardless of outside temp so far. If pushing 3 times the power is still not enough to overload a kind of stock sized radiator, I really doubt any kind of NA power can actually push too much heat into it unless something is wrong (water pump, thermostat stuck closed or head gasket).
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08-01-2021, 11:55 PM | #41 |
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Stock radiator is amazingly effective. Cooling system design and layout are top notch.
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08-02-2021, 11:26 AM | #42 | |
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