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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 04-26-2017, 12:20 PM   #15
pgranberg11
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finally figured out how to multi-quote so i don't double post after a few years.. haha derp

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Originally Posted by Chronology View Post
I would stick with wrapping 1st, if you still have issues or a specific coil you move around causes the cell the "move" with it. Then replace.

I found whatever was cheap at Autozone, make sure you buy a roll not a sheet. I am still FI and don't think the gold wrap makes a difference in quality until you see VERY high (turbo) heat levels. I picked up a single roll, pulled all 4 and wrapped the hell out of it. Still, have a TON of the roll left.
ok good to know. This might be a dumb question, when you wrap it you are wrapping only the square part at the top right and around the sides? I do have a supercharger, so that may also contribute to hotter temps.

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No problem! When you're data-logging, make sure it's in track conditions (or something close to that). I only saw the knock at the track when everything was hot and the tach north of 6000 RPM.
I think what I will do is go on the expressway and just beat on it. accelerate like there's a straight away, redline, slow down and repeat. I know my oil temp gets to around 260 with an oil cooler on track so I'll know that it'll be hot enough by that point to simulate track conditions.

I do really appreciate everyone's help. i guess I'll report back for everyone else's sake.
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:31 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by pgranberg11 View Post

ok good to know. This might be a dumb question, when you wrap it you are wrapping only the square part at the top right and around the sides? I do have a supercharger, so that may also contribute to hotter temps.

I do really appreciate everyone's help. i guess I'll report back for everyone else's sake.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2808950

This is the ignition coil mega thread. It's a long read, but it has all the steps on how to get to each coil and a great image of the wrap.

Once you see it you're going to be pissed you HAVE to buy a large roll, you can also wrap the battery location, firewall area fuel lines, brake master etc. and anything you want to deflect any added heat from the S/C.
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:50 PM   #17
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Any differences in between the two?
I believe when the slip light comes with the CEL that means the car is reducing engine power to preserve the engine, which would make perfect sense if knock is a consequence, "coil doesn't fire - charge auto-ignites, i.e. knocks - ecu freaks out - figures out it's a coil issue & throws code - reduces power" which has me a bit worried as my car has definitely slowed on track in association with the code.

I haven't been back to the track in over a year since I got that code, never replaced the coil, CEL hasn't returned. You bet your ass I'll swap it before I go back to the track, especially after @DarkSunrise mentioned knock, hell I'm tempted to just swap all four when the time has come, my car's at 58k and I've already replaced one, maybe the new ones will be a bit stouter.
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Old 04-26-2017, 05:01 PM   #18
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hell I'm tempted to just swap all four when the time has come, my car's at 58k and I've already replaced one, maybe the new ones will be a bit stouter.
This is why I replaced all 4 the 1st time I had the issue. If it happens again, ill go with the Cusco ones but they are $$$$
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:50 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronology View Post
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2808950

This is the ignition coil mega thread. It's a long read, but it has all the steps on how to get to each coil and a great image of the wrap.

Once you see it you're going to be pissed you HAVE to buy a large roll, you can also wrap the battery location, firewall area fuel lines, brake master etc. and anything you want to deflect any added heat from the S/C.
great, thank you for all your help. I'll look into that thread.

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Originally Posted by strat61caster View Post
I believe when the slip light comes with the CEL that means the car is reducing engine power to preserve the engine, which would make perfect sense if knock is a consequence, "coil doesn't fire - charge auto-ignites, i.e. knocks - ecu freaks out - figures out it's a coil issue & throws code - reduces power" which has me a bit worried as my car has definitely slowed on track in association with the code.

I haven't been back to the track in over a year since I got that code, never replaced the coil, CEL hasn't returned. You bet your ass I'll swap it before I go back to the track, especially after @DarkSunrise mentioned knock, hell I'm tempted to just swap all four when the time has come, my car's at 58k and I've already replaced one, maybe the new ones will be a bit stouter.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I didn't get the slip light and I only got the CEL. I'm thinking I'm going to datalog and look out for knock passed 6k rpm. Otherwise, I may just replace it just for peace of mind.... thanks for the detailed explanation.
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:51 PM   #20
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Does anyone have a picture or instructions on wrapping the coils in gold tape? And what kind of gold tape to use? I have no clue what kind of gold tape to buy or how/where to wrap it on the coil
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Old 05-12-2017, 10:34 PM   #21
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Does anyone have a picture or instructions on wrapping the coils in gold tape? And what kind of gold tape to use? I have no clue what kind of gold tape to buy or how/where to wrap it on the coil
I've seen people recommend DEI gold tape: https://www.amazon.com/010396-Reflec.../dp/B0039Z5TYU

I haven't wrapped my coils, but I've used this one for other engine bay wraps.. it's thicker but has slightly better heat resistance: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFN3DU
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