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Old 12-28-2012, 06:08 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by RallySport Direct View Post
Excellent write up! Thank you for being so thorough and for taking detailed pics.

I just wanted to add that you need to be careful when using the bolts to bring the engine and trans together because if the splines are not lined up perfectly then it will cause some binding and the clutch won't release. Another common problem is putting grease on spinning parts because it can get flung off onto the disc surface, which can cause slipping.

Overall great write-up. Thank you

-Zach
Yeah I made sure the splines were lined up, the issue i had was due to the index pins they were just a tad too tight to just push the transmission back on from under the car laying on my back...guess i should have reiterated that.

And yes you have to be semi liberal with the grease on the input shaft, but the service manual explicitly states to grease the splines and realese bearing surface of the shaft so, just gotta be liberal with the goo!
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:01 AM   #16
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Nice writeup. Very similar to the one I was going to writeup once I get my pics back from my friend. I did a couple things the simpler way. I didn't completely remove the rear transmission cross member, and I left the starter connected to its wiring in the engine bay. I also found it easiest to remove and reinstall the transmission with the front of the engine jacked up from below. Do not use one of the engine supports that rest on the inner fender channel as our fenders are too weak and will bend. I didn't use the bolts to pull the transmission together. I just got it on the bottom two studs and put those nuts on a little bit to keep it from sliding back off and then once the engine couldn't move it wasn't too bad to shake it up and down and side to side until it was all mounted up.
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:12 AM   #17
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Nice writeup. Very similar to the one I was going to writeup once I get my pics back from my friend. I did a couple things the simpler way. I didn't completely remove the rear transmission cross member, and I left the starter connected to its wiring in the engine bay. I also found it easiest to remove and reinstall the transmission with the front of the engine jacked up from below. Do not use one of the engine supports that rest on the inner fender channel as our fenders are too weak and will bend. I didn't use the bolts to pull the transmission together. I just got it on the bottom two studs and put those nuts on a little bit to keep it from sliding back off and then once the engine couldn't move it wasn't too bad to shake it up and down and side to side until it was all mounted up.
Yeah I probably should say that you don't have to remove the rear transmission brace from the transmission, I did to put my Whiteline bushing in. As for leaving the starter attached to the wiring...I just saw a connector and a ring terminal and decided that it was easy to just remove the whole thing from the car...better than have it possibly fall down and hit something. It seems that enough people have had luck with getting their transmissions to seat fine over the pins...maybe I was just at and odd angle, even with all the bolts threaded in so it was all lined up, the pins were just a little too tight to just wobble it in...it was also a pain in the ass to get it off the pins too now that i think about it...
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:08 PM   #18
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lol 86 lbs
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:09 PM   #19
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lol 86 lbs
I actually picked the transmission up over my head...wanted a picture but no one was around...so I put it back down because I realized how ridiculous I must look in my garage grunting like a cave man who just discovered fire, with a transmission above my head...
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:31 AM   #20
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I actually picked the transmission up over my head...wanted a picture but no one was around...so I put it back down because I realized how ridiculous I must look in my garage grunting like a cave man who just discovered fire, with a transmission above my head...
lmfao
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:28 AM   #21
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Thank you very much for doing this. Now I know that buying a flywheel is only 1/10th of the job and it will cost loads more than just $200 because of labor. I don't have a press so I wouldn't be able to do it myself. This will probably be one of my last mods because of this. Thanks again!
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:28 AM   #22
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Thank you very much for doing this. Now I know that buying a flywheel is only 1/10th of the job and it will cost loads more than just $200 because of labor. I don't have a press so I wouldn't be able to do it myself. This will probably be one of my last mods because of this. Thanks again!
What do you need a press for? I managed to swap the clutch and flywheel without one...
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:27 PM   #23
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What do you need a press for? I managed to swap the clutch and flywheel without one...
I thought I read the word press but I guess you meant press it in by hand not press it in with a press. I have press on my mind as I'm having bushings done on Valentine's Day.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:09 PM   #24
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Yeah I probably should say that you don't have to remove the rear transmission brace from the transmission, I did to put my Whiteline bushing in. As for leaving the starter attached to the wiring...I just saw a connector and a ring terminal and decided that it was easy to just remove the whole thing from the car...better than have it possibly fall down and hit something. It seems that enough people have had luck with getting their transmissions to seat fine over the pins...maybe I was just at and odd angle, even with all the bolts threaded in so it was all lined up, the pins were just a little too tight to just wobble it in...it was also a pain in the ass to get it off the pins too now that i think about it...
since its not nessessary to remove the rear transmission brace for the clutch swop, then does it mean that you dont really need to remove the shifter as well?

is it absolutely nessessary to remove the transmission from the car to swtich the clutch?
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:16 AM   #25
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since its not nessessary to remove the rear transmission brace for the clutch swop, then does it mean that you dont really need to remove the shifter as well?

is it absolutely nessessary to remove the transmission from the car to swtich the clutch?
Well after thinking about it, you could just disconnect the shifter from the shift linkage from underneath the car. Once you have removed the exhaust there should be enough room to get your hands up there to do that without removing the shifter through the interior. As for removing the transmission, yes you might as well get it out of the way since you have to disconnect everything from it anyways, and the only thing supporting the tranny would be the jack. Besides it would be quite a pain in the ass to swap the clutch with the transmission in the channel because you would have maybe 6 inches between the transmission and the engine to work in.

In other words, if you've gotten the transmission off the engine all you have to do to remove it at this point is lower it out of the way.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:08 PM   #26
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I would agree. I know I have seen videos of other Subarus where the transmission is moved back just far enough to get the clutch off since we have good access in the engine compartment, but I would recommend getting it out of there completely and doing the work on the bottom side of the car.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:52 PM   #27
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cool. at the moment, I think i am having clutch cylinder creep issue which cause what feels like clutch drag. i would like to switch it back to OEM from my ACT kit.
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:30 AM   #28
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Just the DIY I was looking for. Thank you

Do you have the flywheel bolt torque spec? And did you use new bolts or re-use the old ones?
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