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Old 09-16-2017, 10:29 PM   #127
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First things first, you're gonna need time...this isn't a couple hour job, for my first time it took me nearly 9 hours from start to finish with only a couple breaks and I consider myself pretty savvy concerning work on cars.
Second, invest in some Mechanix gloves or an equivalent, they help alot to keep you from beating your hands up too bad and allow you to grip tools that might get oils and greases on them.

Third get a copy of the service manual. Here's a link that I used to download it to my tablet:

Tools and equipment:

4 Jack Stands
2 Automotive Shop Jacks or 1 Shop jack and 1 Transmission Jack
1 Oil Drain Pan
1 Medium Sized Metal Hammer (Ball peen or Claw)
Flathead and Philips head screwdrivers
1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" Drive ratchets with metric sockets from 10mm to 17mm
Needlenose pliers
10mm Allen wrench or equivalent
14mm Open end wrench

As you can see not too much is required in the tool department, but I will say that a dedicated transmission jack will make this job a lot easier.

1) Removal of the shifter.

In order to drop the transmission you need to remove the shifter, in order to do so you are gonna have to remove your center console.

- First remove the rubber mat from the center console revealing the 2 bolts below, unscrew them and set aside:

- Next remove your shift knob:

- Remove the trim ring around the shifter by grabbing the lip under the shift boot. You can now just slide the boot over the reverse lockout. Under the Traction Control buttons is a small electrical connector, disconnect this:

- Remove the spare change tray. This requires a bit of force to get out, I put my hand into the opening and pull the bottom out first and then wiggle it to get the top tabs free. The USB/AUX port has a connector that you need to disconnect.

- Now you can see the 4 Philips head screws you need to remove:

- Remove the E-Brake boot. This just pulls straight up and slides over the handle.

- Now remove the center console by lifting it from the back. There are two tabs at the front of the console that require you to pull the trim away from each side. Once you have the console removed you will need to disconnect the 12V receptacle:

- Remove the insulation around the shifter by pulling off the 2 white plastic push clips:

- Remove the console bracket by removing the 4 12mm bolts:

- Remove the rubber shifter boot by pulling it over the shifter/reverse lockout:

- Remove the reverse lockout plate by removing the 4 10mm bolts:

- Under the shiter you will see a small rubber boot, you will need to pull this over and out of the way to reveal the cotter pin that you need to remove to pull the shift linkage from the shifter. There is also a small black washer behind the pin so dont lose that:

- Pull the linkage free from the shifter:

- Pull the shiter out of the shifter seat and Voila! Shifer is removed, time to get dirty!!!

2) Preparation for transmission removal.

So before we get under the car there's some things you need to do. First get your car up on the jack stands, I had to do a bit of manoeuvring to get it up on the stands because my car is low, so keep in mind your clearances.

Once you are up on the stands release the E-brake, this allows you to spin the drive shaft...more on that later.

This would also be the opportune time to drain your transmission. I don't have pics of this but here is a link you can use to help you figure it out: (note: for some strange reason this link shows malware detected on Chrome)

Once all this is done, pop the hood and lets get down to it.

3) Removing your transmission.

First thing that we need to do is to make sure there's nothing impeding the removal of the transmission, so we're gonna remove the under body panels, disconnect a few connectors, remove a couple grounds, remove the hydraulic clutch actuator, a couple sections of exhaust, the drive shaft, and the transmission cradle...sounds fun right?!?

- First thing to do is to remove the under body panels, there's two of them. One is Black and made of fiberglass, the other is silver and made of aluminum. If you need help finding the bolts to remove, just remember this, any bolt going through the panel needs to be removed. Also so you don't get your bolts mixed up the black panel's hardware is all 10mm bolts, while the silver panel is 12mm with 7 black plastic push clips...use a flat head screwdriver to pull these out.

- Now lets disconnect some stuff. Start with your battery negative terminal, don't want you to shock yourself.

- On the top of the transmission you're gonna see a tangle mess of wires and hoses but we really only need to worry about a few of them. There are 2 connectors (one red and one gray) that need to be disconnected. There's also a ground wire that need to be unbolted from the top of the tranny. You can also see the clutch actuator, its held on with two 14mm bolts. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT TO THE CLUTCH LINE UNLESS YOU WANT TO DEAL WITH BLEEDING IT LATER!

- One thing I forgot to take a picture of is the wiring that needs to be removed from the starter. On the back of the starter you will see a small connector that needs to be removed. Also there is a rubber boot covering a 12mm nut on a wire terminal, remove this and move the wires out of the way.

- Now you will want to remove the 2 sections of exhaust pipe between the over pipe and the axle back. I don't think pics are necessary, but if you need them here's a link to a DIY thread!

- On to the drive shaft!!! I didn't get any good pics of the differential/drive shaft connection, but it should be self explanatory when you get under the car. There's 4 nut/bolt combos that require a 14mm open end wrench and socket to remove. Once you remove those bolts it is likely that the drive shaft will be stuck to the differential. This is what you need the hammer for. Gently tap the drive shaft knuckles, you don't need to gorilla this , just gently tap them so it separates. Next you will remove the two 14mm bolts from the drive shaft cradle and gently slide the shaft out of the rear of the transmission.

- Remove the rear transmission cradle. This requires you to remove pretty much every bolt on the thing, except for the center 17mm nut (unless you plan on installing a Whiteline positive shift bushing or equivalent). Also remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the exhaust hanger while you're at it!

***Here's a pic of the Whiteline Positive Shift Bushing (and my hand)***

- Ok at this point you need to do a couple of things that I forgot to take pictures of, so hopefully I can explain this well enough. You need to use a jack to hold the weight of the engine so it doesn't tip forward, so I just used a soft pad and lifted it from the oil pan. It is plenty sturdy and I didn't even scratch the paint. Once you have the engine stabilized, it's time to get the transmission supported. If you have a transmission jack at your disposal this is a cinch. If like me you have to use another shop jack, make sure it has a nice wide cup and then get a hold of a metal plate that's about 10 inches by 10 inches and use that to stabilize the transmission. The tranny has an odd balance point s you will want to place the jack under:

- Now that everything is support we can remove the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. There are 6 14mm bolts and 2 14mm nuts holding it on. 2 of those bolts on the right side of the transmission also hold the starter in place. So I removed those first and removed the starter.

- At this point you will have the transmission supported fully by the jack so be careful when pulling the transmission out. Use a buddy if you have one handy to help with lowering it out of the car. You will have to rock the transmission and tilt it back to get it out because of the shape of the tunnel where the transmission support bracket mounts. Once you get the transmission clear of the sway bar all you have to do is lower it straight down. I was surprised to find that the transmission is super light only 86.3 lbs! So I pulled it off the jack and slid it out from under the car while doing the rest of the work.

4) Replacing the clutch.

The reason I did this whole thing was to install my new Clutchmasters FX400 6 puck clutch in preparation for my FI setup being installed in January (I'll be doing a DIY for that too But a clutch, is a clutch, is a clutch so this is pretty much standard fare.

- First replace the clutch release bearing by removing the 2 clips on wither side of the clutch fork:

- Remove the stock release bearing, clean off the shaft and apply high temp waterproof grease to the shaft and the inside of the new release bearing. Then install the new bearing, clip the clips and then take a break!

- Done with your break? Ok now lets remove the old clutch from the engine. There are 6 12mm bolts holding the spring plate to the flywheel remove them and then remove the spring plate and clutch disk. There's gonna be a bunch of black flaky crud that gets everywhere when you take this apart.

- Remove the stock flywheel by removing the 8 14mm bolts you will have to lock the flywheel in place because you'll just end up spinning the engine. I used a small piece of angle iron and wedged it in between the teeth of the flywheel and the engine case. Do't worry too much, because you won't be applying much force to the teeth of the flywheel. Be careful not to drop this on your's heavy and will hurt like hell. (Note: This picture is of my aftermarket lightweight flywheel...just use it to see the bolts!)

- Yay this is what you should see now!

- Here's a comparison of OLD vs. NEW!

- There is a small blue bearing in the old flywheel that needs to be pressed out and installed into the new flywheel.

- Install the new flywheel using your flywheel lock and 8 14mm bolts from the stock flywheel. Torque to specification in a criss cross pattern. After you are done mounting your flywheel you need to degrease the friction surface using denatured alcohol or equivalent. Once it's been cleaned be careful not to touch it again.

- Install the clutch disk using the supplied alignment tool:

- Prep the spring plate for install by degreasing the friction surface. Install the spring plate by aligning the mounting pins. Be sure that the clutch disk is properly aligned with the tool and install the 6 12mm bolts from the stock spring plate. Torque to spec.

- Once the spring plate is tightened down the clutch disk will remain in place, but I left it in place until I was ready to re install the transmission.

To get everything back together is basically the reverse of everything we've done.

A few pointers though:

- When installing the transmission get the transmission as even as possible to the engine and kinda wobble it into place. If you find the index pins are a little tight you can use the mounting bolts to pull the transmission to the engine, instead of trying to push it in place.

- Ensure all of your wires are tucked away from the gap between the transmission and engine to keep them from getting pinched.

- The drive shaft is doesn't look like it but it is, so make sure not to force it, it should slide in easily.

- Fill your transmission when it's in the car and the drive shaft is installed...otherwise you'll spill it out the rear.

- Don't rush, it's not worth forgetting something or doing something half assed.

Hopefully this will help at least one person, in our community!

Also it's a little ironic that the transmission weighs 86 pounds huh?
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:01 PM   #128
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^^Very well done
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Old 10-01-2017, 01:05 AM   #129
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Thanks the OP, this helped a lot.

I found that I needed to remove less stuff. For me at least

- removing the boot and pin from the shifter selector was easier from below the car.
- starter motor does not need to be removed from car (electrical connections can stay - just push it out of the way.
- only 4 bolts need to be removed from the rear cradle ( 4 outside bolts attaching the cradle to the transmission tunnel).
- I only removed the front pipe from the exhaust and the front half of driveshaft.

Took me about three hours working on stands (no hoist) working by myself (I already had the car on stands and the undertray off and did not include time to re-install undertray). I needed a buddy to help re-install the transmission but did the rest myself. I'd say 4 hours including getting it up on stands and removing/replacing the undertray.
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Old 11-06-2017, 01:14 PM   #130
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So I did my TOB this weekend. Here are some notes from my experience.

I read the service manual, the DIY from the OP of this thread and followed this video:

I mostly followed the video but with these differences.

1: You don't see him disconnecting the main harness, speed sensor or reverse sensor, and a few others. I mean, maybe he is so fast you can't even see him do it. My guess is he started the project before rolling the video. Who knows.

2: This guy uses a socket to plug up the hole where the prop shaft normally goes to prevent oil from coming out. I pulled the prop out just enough to get a mic in there to measure the diameter (1.5in). Then I found the perfect sized socket to plug the hole. But at some point the socket slid out and I ended up with oil all over the place anyways. If I did this all over again I would drain the oil. Like I said, I am a cheap ass. Hahaha

3: You will see him remove a cotter pin and then disconnect the shift linkage. You will notice there is no rubber boot. This is probably because he had already destroyed this boot while doing this job a previous time. This boot was REALLY hard to remove. I took the interiour apart thinking I could release this boot from above. It's not possible. You simply have to pull the living crap out of it to get it to stretch over the linkage. It's even harder to get that boot back on. I ended up tearing it while putting it back on. Next time I have to drop the tranny I will just cut that boot off and throw it in the trash.

4: You will see him get out a big pry bar and pry on something near the linkage on both sides of the tranny. You don't need that big pry bar. Simply get a flat head and use your hand to tap on the end of the handle to rotate these tabs up. There is one on each side ot the tranny. Once the tabs are up you can slide the pins out of the linkage. At this point the tranny is completely free of the linkage.

Here is a picture of these tabs from the manual:

5: This is the biggest time saver of them all. This guy doesn't jack the front of the engine. If you don't jack the front of the engine it will tilt forward causing it to bind on the two lower studs making it impossible to slide the tranny off. My guess is the car he is working on has stiffer engine mounts or bushing inserts that prevented it from rocking forward. Trust me, you are going to waste a TON of time if you try to skip this step. The service manual tells you to remove the ex manifold so you can place a jack under the engine. I didn't want to replace ex manifold gaskets and this guy in the video gives you false hope that you can just slide the thing right off. Don't fall for this trap. I was able to use a 2x4 between a floor jack and the water pump (not on the actual pulley). I didn't like doing this but I wasn't actually jacking the engine. You simply want to prevent it from tipping forward.

It took me about 5 hours to do this job. From jacking the car to dropping the car back down. This doesn't include putting fluid back in. I did this the next day and didn't time it. Knowing what I know now I think I could do this job in 2 hours. If I jacked the front of the engine I suspect I could have lowered the tranny with my jack rather than man handle it so the tranny would have stayed level and the socket probably wouldn't have slide out dumping oil all over the place. So that would have saved even more time. Knowing what I know now I would say this is by far the easiest tranny job I have ever done.

Edit: One other thing. I cut a 1x6 just long enough to span the center section of the tranny. I put this between my floor jack and the tranny. It was surprisingly stable.

Edit2: OMG, I just watched his video again and he did actually jack the front of the engine on the header. I watched the video in full a few days before doing the job and then the day of I simply skipped around the video and totally missed where he jacked the front. Hahaha. So really this video is a very good overview. A little clarification that cutting that boot off is the way to go and a little more detail on the pins on the sides of the tranny and you're good to go.

Last edited by ermax; 11-06-2017 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 11-13-2017, 11:43 AM   #131
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Thank you for reuploading the pictures. I did changed my clutch this weekend. I printed these instructions out along with all the required torque values. It made this job a breeze.
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:46 PM   #132
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I wanna thank Supermassive for writing a great DIY that I followed nearly to the letter, catsspat for the torque specs, and rev3la7ion for reposting the photos. You all made this job much easier than it would have been trying to just follow the service manual. I took an embarrassingly long time to do this job but I went very slow and tried to ensure I didn’t screw up any steps. I have other vehicles so finishing the job in time to commute was not an issue for me. I have a few pointers that applied to my job that may help others in trying to accomplish this:

For limited BRZ's or anyone with the push button they will need to pull off the passenger kick panel and push the usb port out from behind to be able to get enough purchase on the coin slot panel to remove it.

The driveshaft to differential bolts are torqued on there something fierce, be prepared to figure out how to get those off without freaking out.

The plate where the differential meets the driveshaft was rusty and made it quite difficult to get the driveshaft off, had to give the drive shaft knuckles several solid taps with the hammer (upward) to get it loose.

I would recommend, rather than trying to disconnect the driveshaft from the differential completely before removing the driveshaft cradle bolts, that you tap the knuckles on the driveshaft->Differential connection until you can see that the driveshaft “plate” is loose from the differential. Then carefully disconnect the driveshaft cradle bolts. Also note the red paint on the diff used to indicate the appropriate way to reattach the driveshaft when it comes time to reinstall.

When removing the transmission I waited until I had the transmission jack supporting the transmission before I removed the rear transmission cradle. I removed the four bolts connecting the cradle to the car and the two nuts/washers connecting the cradle to the transmission bushing.

Also, something that I (stupidly) struggled with for about an hour while removing the transmission was that there’s one step missing in the instructions. When removing the trans you need to remember to unbolt the rear transmission bushing! I was under there yanking and prying on the damn thing, cursing, until I realized my folly. It slid out easily after I removed the two bolts. Funny thing to forget as installing a polyurethane rear bushing was part of this job for me.

When reinstalling the transmission it seemed best to me to reinstall the four bolts of the cradle first, and loosely tighten the two nuts/washers. Then, carefully, lower the transmission jack with the two nuts loose enough that the transmission can “center” itself in the cradle before you crank down on the nuts to their proper torque. My thinking on this was to attempt to keep the transmission as perfectly aligned as possible.

When reinstalling the driveshaft I found that it would not spin! Just about shat a brick, had a mental breakdown, and visions of pulling the trans down all over again to figure out if something was binding up. Turns out the trans had somehow popped into third gear during the removal. I climbed in the car and reinstalled the shifter enough to check what gear it was in and, sure enough, when I shifted to neutral the driveshaft spun just fine.

I disconnected my shifter (not necessary), but when reinstalling I found a suggestion on another post about installing the reverse lockout plate so that it is barely touching the shifter as you shift from 1st to 2nd. Works for me. I’ve also had some shifter rattle that’s gotten appreciably worse since I bought the car and I’d read in another thread that the thin washer securing the shift linkage can be the culprit here. Some people have replaced it with a thicker washer, but try as I might I couldn’t get the pin back in with a hardware store washer. I ended up electrical taping the stock washer on both sides and xacto knifing out the original washer shape. We will see how it holds up and whether it helps with the rattle.

If you are mechanically inclined and have the tools I would definitely recommend attempting this job, but be prepared to set aside some time if you’ve never replaced a clutch before and you’re trying to make sure everything’s perfect.
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Old 06-17-2018, 03:11 PM   #133
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Great write up on how to do this.

I'm mechanically inclined, but its always nice to see how it's done before I start tearing things apart.

I just used it to get my trans out and ready to put the new clutch in when it gets here.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:34 AM   #134
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Just reading through the steps makes things seem easier. A couple of things I wasn't sure about though...

- There is a small blue bearing in the old flywheel that needs to be pressed out and installed into the new flywheel.
Do you need to buy a new one, or can you just use the old pilot bearing?

- Install the clutch disk using the supplied alignment tool
Is it a huge problem to get the clutch/cover aligned without this alignment tool?
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