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Cosmetic Modification (Interior/Exterior/Lighting) Discussions about cosmetic mods. |
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05-17-2015, 02:27 PM | #393 |
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Can you comment on whether you can Dremel off that corner without removing the bracket from the car? Thanks!
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05-17-2015, 02:39 PM | #394 | |
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Move Over Racing Bumper Q/R's. Interest?
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Yeah you could but the top is awfully close to the fender. It's much easier to just remove it
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05-17-2015, 04:14 PM | #395 |
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Okay so I just finished the install and my feelings are still a bit mixed. First of all, I wanted to confirm that the angled spacers do not just "float around", they're used to angle 2 of the 4 rods and they are bolted down on either end. On the topic of the angled spacers, I don't buy that they are more expensive to make than a bracket. You could just take a 3" long spacer and cut it in half at an angle. Voila, 2 spacers. Anyways, that's neither here nor there, but I did want to clear that up since I posted that it appeared they were used differently earlier.
Anyways... The install is fairly straight forward and the instructions are adequate. At points it's fairly hard to understand, but once you have your car apart, it becomes pretty clear what has to be done. From beginning to end I would say that their 1.5 hour estimate is a little optimistic, but it's nowhere near an all day job. I do all my own work on my car and have had it apart countless times, and I would say it took me and a couple buddies 2 hours or so, but that includes time to discuss things like vaginas and beer. My main complaint is the "generic" feel to everything. There are adjustments and measurements to be made when installing the rods which is what I didn't want to do when I bought a purpose built kit. A bracket would bolt in and have the rods in place. No measuring, no adjustment, it just bolts on and away you go. Two of the rods actually go through large 1/2" x 1/2" square holes and can be moved around significantly. I guess it's not the end of the world, but like I said, with a bracket it would essentially bolt on and be done with it. Surprisingly, one of the easiest parts of the install is drilling giant holes in your bumper. It was a little nerve racking to gouge 3/4" holes with a stepped bit, but it went ok. My only suggestion at this point is to triple check as you go. I drilled the pilot hole, reinstalled the bumper and adjusted the angle in which I drilled to make sure it was centered. Once I went a step or two down, I installed and checked again. The end result was a perfectly centred rod. After the actual clips are installed, be prepared to spend some time installing, removing, adjusting, and reinstalling. You need to find the "sweet spot" for the rod length to ensure you have a smooth bodyline between the fender and bumper cover. I did have issues with the marker lights clearing the rods themselves and ended up having to cut a bunch of plastic and trim down the light connecter. Again, not the end of the world, but it's something that you would hope could of been avoided having bought a purpose built kit. Overall I would rate the end result as an 8/10 and the kit itself about a 6/10 due to not being a true bolt on and go. Would I buy it again if I had to go back and do it over? I'm 50/50. Pros: -It securely pulls the bumper into the car, as opposed to the OEM hook/clip system -Fairly easy install, but somewhat time consuming. -Latches look nice (if you are into that kind of look) - Mine are black on black -Bumper gap is more or less gone -The kit is adjustable, so even if you mess up a tiny bit, there's some "repair" area to play with Cons: Tough to justify the value for $185US Not a simple bolt in install. Requires measurement and adjustment Easy to mess up if you don't take your time Clearance issues with marker light harness required trimming/dremel Overall, I feel that this kit would be at home selling on ebay for $99, but $185 isn't the end of the world since it was designed and built in this hemisphere.
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to protpibe For This Useful Post: | 1Cor10:23 (05-17-2015), civicdrivr (05-19-2015), dj2020 (05-18-2015), Kiske (05-19-2015), SPCorBUST (05-17-2015) |
05-17-2015, 04:20 PM | #396 |
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05-17-2015, 04:33 PM | #397 |
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Sure. I started out taking pics but neglected it as the process went on.
They could of done a better job illustrating what needs to be cut. Essentially it's the upper corner closest to where the forward latch will be sitting. If you want to save yourself some headache, take your wheels off or have the car in the air so you can turn them out of the way Other than that, all the pics you need are in the instructions
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05-17-2015, 04:36 PM | #398 | |
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Quote:
projekt zeal86 build |
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05-17-2015, 04:37 PM | #399 | |
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Quote:
It's the angle and lighting. I noticed that too and double checked to confirm that it's flush
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The Following User Says Thank You to protpibe For This Useful Post: | zeal86 (05-17-2015) |
05-17-2015, 04:43 PM | #400 | |
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Quote:
Anyone received an anodized red set? Would love to see how they look installed... especially on a 37J or halo. projekt zeal86 build |
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05-17-2015, 06:25 PM | #401 |
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@protpibe thanks for the review, very insightful. Could I bother you to count the number of exposed threads for both rods? This could save a lot of adjustment time for everyone. Thanks!
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05-17-2015, 08:03 PM | #402 |
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I'll see what I can do when I get home.
Also, I just want to point out that there is very little "quick release" to this kit. The only thing you are cutting out of the equation is the popit behind the marker light. Literally everything else still has to be done (fender liner screws, under hold stuff, under car stuff).
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05-18-2015, 07:44 AM | #404 |
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05-18-2015, 08:13 AM | #405 |
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@JD86 you need two for each of the rear rods
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05-18-2015, 08:22 AM | #406 |
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There is nothing structural behind the holes where the rod goes through correct? They look to simply bolt to the excess metal on the fender itself. Do you think this could be done with aftermarket fenders such as Todoroki/Virctory/Ings/Seibon that are fully fiberglass/carbon?
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