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Old 06-16-2013, 07:45 PM   #1
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DIY - EasyGo Push Start Button Install (FRS or BRZ Premium)

Ok, so I finally put together my long promised DIY for the easygo start button for the FRS. I am not associated with the company at all, I just bought their kit and installed it. Also, I recommend you get a professional to install it. In other words, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE. There may be better ways to do this, but this is how I did it.

Materials Needed:

1 EasyGo kit (can be found at amazon.com)

1 SCYTEK inverter (can be found online, I got mine from ebay)

1 fuse tap which will fit the small fuse box under your dash

Extra 18 or 20 gauge wire (preferably have a few colors)

Optional: Mini-piezo siren

Your preferred method of tapping and connecting wires (Soldering, T-taps, butt connectors, or other wire taps) I used T-taps and butt connectors edit: I highly recommend soldering. Eventually taps will fail and your car won't start, or it will do weird things. Just go ahead and solder everything.

Tools for taking interior apart.

A good chunk of time to work on this, and a beverage or two

The kit does not come with any vehicle specific instructions. Thus, the DIY. However, if you run into a problem, I suggest emailing the EasyGo people directly at info@easygosystem.com. I have found if you ask them specific questions, they are pretty helpful, and they did a lot to help me in the end.
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The kit comes with all of these components. The bigger box is the control module, there is a 16 pin wire harness which needs to be tapped into various wires in the car to control things like the locks, trunk, lights, and horn but also connects to the can high and low controls and the brake line, which are necessary for the start button to function. There is also a shock sensor which integrates with the alarm through the easygo system. Also, the little box connected to the main control unit is the immobilizer bypass. There are also three antennas which are needed to detect the key fob, and a led light which will show when the system is armed upon locking the car). The other harness in the picture is the one which connects the car’s ignition to the control module and the start button.

Finally, in the picture below you can see the door handle which comes with the kit which has a button to lock and unlock the car when you have the key fob in your pocket, the key fobs themselves, and the ignition harness I mentioned above.


This wiring diagram is very important

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Steps:

1. Wiring
2. Door Handle Install
3. Start Button and Immobilizer bypass install
4. Wheel Lock Removal


Important note: I highly recommend disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery before doing any electrical work on the car.

Last edited by Chaetagnath; 07-10-2017 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:46 PM   #2
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DIY - EasyGo Push Start Button Install (FRS or BRZ Premium)

Wiring

Some good resources:
The wiring diagram: http://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf


A compilation of relevant wires http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=remote+start


The wiring diagram which comes with the kit is crucial (and posted above).



You will need to connect various wires from the 16 pin harness to certain wires in your car. There are 5 locations which are important, all on the driver’s side. To get to them, you will first need to remove the molding below the driver’s side dash.


Open the driver’s side door. Remove the small piece of molding here:





Remove this screw:



There is also a screw on the same piece of molding on the other side.








Pull the molding off (held by many clips), and disconnect the trunk release harness and the dimmer harness.
There is a large metal plate underneath, remove it as well.



At the bottom left, remove this piece of molding.



Remove this clip with a small flat head screwdriver.





Lift the molding along the floor line, and remove the other side.







You should now be able to see various connectors.


3 locations (D5, 3C and 3D) can be seen in the picture below. D5 is the middle connector on the right, and 3C is the bottom connector with the big clip, and 3D is above it with the black clip.




At the bottom is the HD1 connector (it has a black clip attached):


Then there is the ED2 connector for the door locks which is here:








Here are the wires I tapped into, and the corresponding wire which needs to be attached from the 16 pin harness:



This wiring is based on a manual transmission install. I don't know if an automatic has any differences, but if you are AT check the wiring diagram (see above link).


Soldering is generally the best way to ensure good connections, but if you aren't comfortable with that, I find T-taps to be the easiest method. You need 18-22 gauge T-taps (usually purple), I got mine at radio shack (EDIT: I highly recommend that you solder all connections. Eventually the tapped connections may not quite connect and you could have problems starting your car at times. I only used t-taps to test everything and get it it working. Then I went through and properly soldered all the connections. In the long run it is worth it.). When all the wires are connected, the harness will be plugged into the main easy go control box. You will want to use lots of zip ties to keep the wires organized.

Last edited by Chaetagnath; 07-09-2017 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:46 PM   #3
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DIY - EasyGo Push Start Button Install (FRS or BRZ Premium)

Wiring Addendum

The door locks require a positive trigger, but the easygo control box sends out a negative signal. So, you need to convert the easygo signal to positive triggers. You can use relays to do this, however, the absolute easiest way to do it is to use a Scytek Inverter.



Just google Scytek Inverter, a lot of places sell it (got mine on ebay). You will need to clip the little white connector off. The red wire must be connected to to a 12 volt power supply. The easiest way to do this would be to use a mini fuse tap(ATC). Something like this:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...-tap/545/1739/

Just be sure you tap a position which is always hot (or you can't unlock your car when it is off), and be sure the tap is oriented correctly.



The position I tapped above is always on, it is the second slot from the top there.

The short green and blue wires are connected to the lock and unlock wires from the easy go 16 pin harness (see the above table). Then, the longer wires connect to the vehicle side (again see the above table), just make sure you connect the same color to the vehicle side and the easygo side (example, if the green is connected to the easy go unlock wire, green should be connected to the vehicle unlock wire).


Also, the trunk release wire is a 5 wire configuration. So, you need to clip the brown wire (see above table), be sure to leave plenty of room on either side. The red/black side of the easygo wire goes towards the trunk side, and the white wire connects to the vehicle or fuse box side.

One last note on the wiring. The horn trigger is designed to connect to the vehicle horn and beep when unlock and locking with the remote, and if someone breaks into the car it acts as an alarm. However, it is kind of loud. There is no way to tap into the vehicle's OEM buzzer that is heard when locking and unlocking the car (as far as I can figure out), however I used a mini piezo siren instead, and that works pretty well. The siren has a positive and negative wire, I just connected the horn trigger from the easy go harness to the negative side, and the positive side to the wire from the same fuse tap I tapped for the Polarity inverter (see above). So, when using the remote I get a nice chirp locking and unlocking instead of a beep. Just a personal preference thing.




Door Handle Install


Remove the OEM handle you can find instructions to do that here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34162


You will also need to remove the door panel on the other side. It’s not that bad, but be sure you have a blanket underneath to place it on so you don’t scratch it up. Follow the DIY here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...r+card+removal


Peel back the plastic (it can be put back later) to give access to the inside of the door.



Now put the new handle in, it has wires though which need to be carefully threaded through to the other side. The wires are not long enough, so you will need to extend them to reach the interior.



It is very important to thread the wires towards the far end of the door to avoid the power window. If not, the window will just slice through the wires. So, if you are looking at the interior of the door, run the wire straight down, then to the left. You may want to tape the wires against the door frame. There is a little metal hole you can run it through.


Bring it around and out this hole. Then run it along with the other wires to the other end of the door.



I recommend you reconnect the power window switches at this point and test the window going up and down to ensure it does not hit the wires. If it does it will sever them, and you will need to take the door apart again to reconnect the wires (not saying this happened to me, but....)






Next, this is probably the trickiest part of the whole install. The wire needs to be run from the door into the cabin. You will need some sort of runner. I used one like this one: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7835_PU17.html The wires run through the rubber casing seen here.






This is the view from the door side:





Its sort of a tube within a tube. The best thing to do is run the wire between the inner and outer tube. Between the door and the car the outer tube intersects another outer tube running from the inside of the car. At this point the wire can be pulled out. It gives you a good halfway point.






I cut the door side outer tube a bit at the intersection to give more room to get the wires out, and then to get it into the tube running to the car side. You can also poke a small hole in the tube coming from the car side to run the wires through at this point. I taped it all up when I was done.







Once the wire is in the cabin, it needs to be connected to this harness:





The small red and black wires need to be connected to the red and black wires from the door handle. The harness then plugs into the main easy go control box (see the wiring diagram above). The rest of the harness plugs into nothing, but according to the EasyGo people, it is there to accommodate future upgrades which will allow remote start functionality with smart phones.

Edit: if you wish to install the OEM handle with a touch sensor go here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=160


To add a trunk lid button, go here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2169625

Last edited by Chaetagnath; 07-09-2017 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:47 PM   #4
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Ignition

The steering wheel cover can be easily removed by turning the steering wheel to the right to expose this screw:



Remove that screw, rotate the wheel to the left, and remove the screw on the other side. The bottom cover will unclip from the top. You can also remove the top portion, there is a leather hood which clips into the dash, remove those clips and the whole thing will come off.


Once that is done, the ignition harness needs to be unplugged from the car. Then the easygo harness plugs into ignition, and the vehicle ignition harness plugs into the other end of the easygo ignition harness. It’s fairly straightforward. What is not straight forward is how to plug the ignition harness to the portion which then plugs into the easygo control box. It follows this configuration:


Harness from easygo control box ------>>> Harness connected to ignition

Thin yellow ------>>>Thin yellow
thin red ------>>> thick red
thick blue ------>>> thin blue
thick red ------>>>thick blue
thick brown ------>>>thin red
thick brown ------>>> thick brown




When you are done it should look like this:


That's what worked for me, although there may be a better way. You must have the CAN high and low connected and the brake wire connected (see wiring section above) in order for it to start.
Immobilizer Bypass

The immobilizer bypass uses one of your original keys. I went with the valet key. Be sure one of your keys is placed in the box properly. The chip should be in the circle of wire thingy.

like this:



Screw the top back on tightly, the key should not move in there. Next, the immobilizer is this device sitting on the ignition (it is held on by clips on the top which can be gently pushed aside to remove):



The wire from the bypass that is in a ring, it must be taped around the edge of the immobilizer like so:



Wrap it tightly around, and tape it REALLY well. You do not want that thing ever slipping off, especially if you are stashing it elsewhere in the dash (which is what I did).

Be sure the immobilizer is connected to the original harness from your car. Plug the other end of the copper ring wire into the immobilizer bypass box (the blue plug). Then, plug the harness which runs from the immobilizer bypass box to the easygo module in correctly (see the wiring diagram). The immobilizer bypass box should be hidden in the dash somewhere. There are quite a few options, but the more difficult it is to get out without completely dismantling things the better. I am not going to say where I put mine, but I ended up actually needing to extend the wires which connect the immobilizer to the easygo control module.


Start button install: The start button itself is fairly simple, but does require removing the center console. This is actually fairly easy. I recommend following the very good instructions in this thread right up to the point before he pulls the controls for the HVAC: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8336
Install the start button, and run the wire to the easygo control box harness.

When you are done it should look like this:




As for the placement of the easygo control unit, I found the best place to install it was behind the metal bracket on the drivers side. I used a very long zip tie to keep it there:







There are various other things which need to be installed which I won't go into detail on, but are fairly easy. The antennas must be placed in the car headliner (not directly on metal though), and the wires should be run down the driver side A-pillar then under the dash to the box. Also, put the LED light somewhere if you wish, and the shock sensor. Use lots of zip ties to organize the wires and stash everthing out of sight tightly so that nothing rattles. Connect everything to the easygo control box, and if you have done everything right, step on the brake to activate, and push the car to start it. The last thing that you need to do is disable the steering wheel lock or you won't get far.

Last edited by Chaetagnath; 07-09-2017 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:47 PM   #5
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Essentially you have three options for the steering wheel lock.

A. Have a copy of your key made (a non-chip key, should cost less than 2 bucks). Mark the key about half a centimeter where it sticks out of the ignition, cut the key off at that point, reinsert and use needle nose pliers to turn it to the on position. Cover, and never touch again.



If you choose to go this route there are two other things you need to do. One, disconnect the little wire to the white clip by the ignition so it doesn’t permanently beep at you when the key is turned. Second, underneath the ignition you need to remove the white box which attaches to ignition harness.



This must be done so the car is not permanently in the on position. Once it’s off, insert a flathead and turn it to the off position.[/SIZE][/FONT]



Now zip tie it along the steering wheel column somewhere. Just be sure it is done in a way so that when the steering wheel is moved it doesn't pinch any wires.


B. Remove the entire ignition assembly. This requires some skill, as you must get that bolt off somehow (see this video
), or dremel through the cover folding it onto the steering wheel column (which is what I ended up doing in frustration).

C. Remove the steering wheel lock itself. Now, this is something I can't entirely vouch for because I haven’t done it when the ignition assembly was still on the car, but might end up being the best way for a clean solution.

Remove the steering wheel column cover. Take off the immobilizer. On the back side of the ignition cylinder (midway of where the key will be), there is a small hole with a button. The hole is hard to see, there are some metal prongs sticking out, it is not in those columns, it is a flat hole between them.



You need to insert your key, and turn it to the first or on position. In that position, use a pick or other narrow tool, and insert it into the small hole in the back. If the key is in the right position, the button will push in. Pull on the key, and the ignition will slide forward a little bit.



Next, look for a small hole on the other side (you should be able to see it facing you as you sit in the seat). Insert a probe into that hole, and pull on the key more, the ignition should just slide right out.





Now, look into the chamber where the ignition was, on the bottom there is a spring, and two pieces of metal that slide back and forth (this is the steering wheel lock).



Remove the piece in the back with long nose needle nose pliers, and there is more room to get at the steering wheel lock.



The top piece and the spring are easy to get to, the lock itself is a little tricky. You need to pull it forward and tilt it upwards then out. Use narrow needle nose pliers, and a metal probe to do this. Once that’s out you can reinsert the ignition cylinder if you like (or leave it out).
Put the cover back on (you may need to remove the Styrofoam piece on the bottom cover to make room for the extra wires and such). The kit comes with a cover to go over the hole, but I ordered the stock BRZ limited price which fits and looks better in my opinion. The part number is: 34348CA000VHThere you go. If you have done everything right, you are done!

Last edited by Chaetagnath; 07-09-2017 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:36 PM   #6
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Looking forward to hearing much more about this!
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:37 PM   #7
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:07 PM   #8
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:24 PM   #9
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Awesome guide! Could you by chance do a video review of it sometime?
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:09 PM   #10
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great write up thanks
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:57 PM   #11
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Awesome write-up. I was keeping an eye on the easygo thread since i've been wanting to do this for a while but it looked a little intimidating. Now that amazon has more kits in stock i've been extremely tempted to get one and get started. Thanks for this DIY.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:35 AM   #12
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Nice DIY.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:45 PM   #13
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a lot of work wow
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charged86 View Post
a lot of work wow
True story, I have a lot of respect for people determined enough to dig into their car this much.

For me... Man, turning a key just isn't that big of a burden IMO.
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