CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[misooscar]

Originally Posted by waterbison777

Swift Spec-R's, I'll bet

If I were to upgrade shocks in the future, which model would still work with the swift spec r springs?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[waterbison777]

Originally Posted by misooscar

If I were to upgrade shocks in the future, which model would still work with the swift spec r springs?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

The Spec-R's are designed specifically for the vehicle's stock dampers. I've only personally run them with OEM dampers, and they are quite impressive on track (much harsher than OEM for DD though.)

Perhaps someone else would have more insight regarding alternate dampers. Can't really help you there.

[mike_frs]

Just ordered a set of KW V3's. After I install and get an alignment, should I get a corner balance? What's the advantage and disadvantage if I do or don't do the corner balance?

[Doozer]

Sorry posted this in another thread but it should have gone here:

Hey suspension guru's

we've outgrown our Ohlins and now need something better.

The high and low speed sections are starting to hurt us, as high speed corners we can't attack the curbing because we have no high speed damping ability. The car literally jumps to the other side of the track.

We've heard great things about SRC
We've heard good things about RCE.
We've heard good things about Moton.
We've heard good things about JRZ.

Does anyone feel like pitching a product?

Price wise, why go 3 way when 4 way is also pricey? Is high speed rebound not so much of a concern?

I apologize in advance. I know NOTHING about suspension, I just turn clicks on the ohlins to make them softer or harder.

Thanks guys

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by mike_frs

Just ordered a set of KW V3's. After I install and get an alignment, should I get a corner balance? What's the advantage and disadvantage if I do or don't do the corner balance?

If you track your car, a corner balance is recommended to get the most out of your coilovers. It's not 100% necessary for a street car.

The goal is even cross weights:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/art...orner-weights/

You should do the corner balance before you align the car.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Doozer

Sorry posted this in another thread but it should have gone here:

Hey suspension guru's

we've outgrown our Ohlins and now need something better.

The high and low speed sections are starting to hurt us, as high speed corners we can't attack the curbing because we have no high speed damping ability. The car literally jumps to the other side of the track.

We've heard great things about SRC
We've heard good things about RCE.
We've heard good things about Moton.
We've heard good things about JRZ.

Does anyone feel like pitching a product?

Price wise, why go 3 way when 4 way is also pricey? Is high speed rebound not so much of a concern?

I apologize in advance. I know NOTHING about suspension, I just turn clicks on the ohlins to make them softer or harder.

Thanks guys

All 4 are good options.

If you "know nothing about suspension" a 4 way will not be your friend unless you have someone you can count on to tune your set-up or has a lot of experience with that specific damper. Also, high speed rebound adjustment is not as valuable IMO.

RCE Tarmac 3 Clubsports (3 way with high/low compression damping adjusters) are a great way to get into that level of damper at a cost far below a 3 way JRZ or Moton.

Is this a dedicated track car or does it still see the street?

- Andy

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

All 4 are good options.

If you "know nothing about suspension" a 4 way will not be your friend unless you have someone you can count on to tune your set-up or has a lot of experience with that specific damper. Also, high speed rebound adjustment is not as valuable IMO.

RCE Tarmac 3 Clubsports (3 way with high/low compression damping adjusters) are a great way to get into that level of damper at a cost far below a 3 way JRZ or Moton.

Is this a dedicated track car or does it still see the street?

- Andy

Thanks Andy,

This particular car is race only. We have a very good shock engineer who's helping to teach us about this kind of stuff.

We tell him what it feels like in the car and he can translate that into what adjustments to make at the track. Great guy to have on a team.

As our shock guy is very technical and shows us graphs like this one below, but I don't know who to interpret that data into car feeling. Can you help explain why the 4 way high-speed rebound adjustment isn't so critical (in terms of feeling in the car)?

Thanks

[Racecomp Engineering]

Ahhh if you've got a shock guy that certainly helps and it looks like he's using shock pots which is great (though that software is for motorcycles and I'm not sure where the fork is on an 86 jk)

High speed rebound adjustment is a nice but expensive bonus. With a quality shock, whether it's a 1 way or 2 way or 3 way, the single rebound adjustment will mostly affect only low and some mid-speed damping OR the full range with nice evenly spaced curves between clicks. Ideally when you turn up the rebound damping to get an increase in low-speed adjustment you don't see an exponentially huge progressive increase in high-speed at the same time. But very high rebound (extension) velocities are also not seen too often on the track...though you still have to be careful of jacking down if you're overdamped.

Short answer: independent high and low speed compression is much more valuable and a single knob for rebound is fine for most of us as long as the base valving is good (which it will be on a quality shock like the ones in your list).

We have a lot of experience with our RCE T3s and JRZs 2 ways for this platform and Moton on others. We really like JRZ, both because it's a quality shock and the aftersale support is great. Our shocks would give the advantage of 3 way adjustment which is huge. The 3 way race JRZs are very good of course too if it's in your budget and you're really looking for a hardcore motorsports shock. You would expect more frequent rebuilds with the motorsports JRZs though (nature of the beast).

- Andy

[Doozer]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Ahhh if you've got a shock guy that certainly helps and it looks like he's using shock pots which is great (though that software is for motorcycles and I'm not sure where the fork is on an 86 jk)

High speed rebound adjustment is a nice but expensive bonus. With a quality shock, whether it's a 1 way or 2 way or 3 way, the single rebound adjustment will mostly affect only low and some mid-speed damping OR the full range with nice evenly spaced curves between clicks. Ideally when you turn up the rebound damping to get an increase in low-speed adjustment you don't see an exponentially huge progressive increase in high-speed at the same time. But very high rebound (extension) velocities are also not seen too often on the track...though you still have to be careful of jacking down if you're overdamped.

Short answer: independent high and low speed compression is much more valuable and a single knob for rebound is fine for most of us as long as the base valving is good (which it will be on a quality shock like the ones in your list).

We have a lot of experience with our RCE T3s and JRZs 2 ways for this platform and Moton on others. We really like JRZ, both because it's a quality shock and the aftersale support is great. Our shocks would give the advantage of 3 way adjustment which is huge. The 3 way race JRZs are very good of course too if it's in your budget and you're really looking for a hardcore motorsports shock. You would expect more frequent rebuilds with the motorsports JRZs though (nature of the beast).

- Andy

Thanks Andy,

exactly the information I was looking for.

We have an enduro this weekend then 1 month until the next event. Hope to be able to make a decision soon.

I now also need to look into Asia's JRZ support, if it's non-existent, easier to rule them out.

Take care

[DeaconRoc]

I've had my coilovers fitted but I'm getting an issue on high frequency bumps on highway type roads (Motorway and A roads here in the UK). The firmer the dampers are set the worse it gets - to the point where the rear view mirror becomes almost pointless it is vibrating that much. At softer settings it's better but still present.


Does this sound like something that can be tuned with damper adjustments or a more fundamental issue with the dampers?

Thanks for the help!

[gramicci101]

Which coilovers, what spring rates, how many clicks from full hard or full soft, etc...?

[Ddreder]

I was pointed in this direction so I will repost here.

So I finally pulled the trigger on buying some springs because my car sits really high with the 235/50r17 tires I put on. Anyways after much debate and deciding that I really wanted the rear slightly lower than the front I went with the RS-R super down springs from redline360. I am probably going to have a shop put them on as I really dont want to wack a fender with the impact gun when I inevitably become impatient with the springs..

My question is.. After doing some research I keep seeing that if you lower your FRS more than 1 inch that you should get LCA's. I was just wondering if that was entirely true? These springs say they will drop approximately 1.2in in the front and 1.4in in the back so I am a little worried. I really dont want to have to put LCA's on the car..

Any help would be much appreciated guys! Thank you

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Ddreder

I was pointed in this direction so I will repost here.

So I finally pulled the trigger on buying some springs because my car sits really high with the 235/50r17 tires I put on. Anyways after much debate and deciding that I really wanted the rear slightly lower than the front I went with the RS-R super down springs from redline360. I am probably going to have a shop put them on as I really dont want to wack a fender with the impact gun when I inevitably become impatient with the springs..

My question is.. After doing some research I keep seeing that if you lower your FRS more than 1 inch that you should get LCA's. I was just wondering if that was entirely true? These springs say they will drop approximately 1.2in in the front and 1.4in in the back so I am a little worried. I really dont want to have to put LCA's on the car..

Any help would be much appreciated guys! Thank you

You'll end up with a lot of camber with a 1.4 inch rear drop. I would recommend rear LCAs. The alternative would be the whiteline rear camber adjusters which are good and cheaper than LCAs, but require a good shop to install and align.

- Andy

[Ddreder]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

You'll end up with a lot of camber with a 1.4 inch rear drop. I would recommend rear LCAs. The alternative would be the whiteline rear camber adjusters which are good and cheaper than LCAs, but require a good shop to install and align.

- Andy

How much is too much? 2-3 degrees? or more? Do you know if it will cause excessive tire wear? LCA's are just fracking expensive and I was already working on a budget.. Maybe I'll just cancel my order and go for the 1inch drops..