Changing spark plugs

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Halo_2

anyone with a auto box done this method of changing plugs, does it have the same transmission mount/bracket.

Shouldn’t really be any different.

[RickyRacer]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Did you not jack the engine up?

Just finished the job. No engine jacking necessary.


Car started and purrs perfectly (until the crickets come on)


Honestly it was my first spark plug change ever, and did it on this car. With enough patience i'm sure almost anyone can do this job.



Some advice i would offer... find a extension for your deep socket that is less than 3".. but above 2".. some like 2.4" inches is perfect. These dont come in the standard socket sets.. but it was essential for me in order to finish the last plug today (cylinder 4)


vaccum tube also helps alot to get the plug in initially.. again almost essential in my experience


my hands are demolished

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by RickyRacer

my hands are demolished

my general experience working on cars is that the job difficulty is directly related to how many scratches, cuts, and bruises i end up with for the next 2 weeks...

i figure this has got to be a 3 bruise, 5 cut, and 40 scratches type job.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by RickyRacer

Just finished the job. No engine jacking necessary.


Car started and purrs perfectly (until the crickets come on)


Honestly it was my first spark plug change ever, and did it on this car. With enough patience i'm sure almost anyone can do this job.



Some advice i would offer... find a extension for your deep socket that is less than 3".. but above 2".. some like 2.4" inches is perfect. These dont come in the standard socket sets.. but it was essential for me in order to finish the last plug today (cylinder 4)


vaccum tube also helps alot to get the plug in initially.. again almost essential in my experience


my hands are demolished

Spend the extra 20mins jacking the engine up to save you several hours and dozens of scratches next time. Not necessary but 10times easier.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Spend the extra 20mins jacking the engine up to save you several hours and dozens of scratches next time. Not necessary but 10times easier.

I was going to say the same thing. I have smallish hands and couldn't imagine trying to do this without jacking the engine. I can have the engine out in the amount of time it took him to do that.

[RickyRacer]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I was going to say the same thing. I have smallish hands and couldn't imagine trying to do this without jacking the engine. I can have the engine out in the amount of time it took him to do that.

it's really not that bad, passenger is a breeze... front driver is easy too (spark plug has enough room, just getting that coil pack off is a b#$. )


The most time consuming for me was honestly get all the crap off, battery, intake, ecu,injector cover, etc. and then the rear driver spark plug.... needed a special 2.5" extension for that... once i found that extension it made it easy


meh, worth it for me. spreading it over the course of a few days definitely helps so you dont get frustrated trying to do it all in one sitting. there's also alot of tight cables ive noticed in the engine bay that could be aggravated by lifting it even just an inch

[RickyRacer]

here's a comparison between my old plugs and new ones... i won't hold off on doing this for so long next time, now that im confident i can finish this job inside of a weekend window.


cheers all

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by RickyRacer

there's also alot of tight cables ive noticed in the engine bay that could be aggravated by lifting it even just an inch

No there isn't. If you didn't want to do it that way just say so. Don't make up reasons that are not true when so many others have done it this way.

You can go up about 4 inches without too much issue. The metal skid plate needs removed and then there is only two nuts that hold the motor down.

[FLYFISHR]

What torque settings should you use to tighten those two engine bolts back up?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by FLYFISHR

What torque settings should you use to tighten those two engine bolts back up?

I believe it’s 44ftlbs. If you look in Ultra’s sig there is link to the manual.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by FLYFISHR

What torque settings should you use to tighten those two engine bolts back up?

Whoops, 37ftlbs, 50 N-M

[Ohio Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

You can go up about 4 inches without too much issue. The metal skid plate needs removed and then there is only two nuts that hold the motor down.

Subaru's instructions seem to be much more involved. Why would they require so much more disassembly to jack up the engine if it's possible to do with so little? Also some folks here started from "yeah, just a couple of bolts" and then changed to "emm, actually there's a bunch more stuff that I forgot about". Not trying to dis you or anything, actually very interested in the easiest approach to do this (past experience taught me the value of time saved with additional disassembly vs. trying to squeeze through with all the stuff around the work area).

And another stupid question (that was mentioned here already but wasn't answered as far as I can tell) - can you access the plugs from underneath? Or would the suspension components be in the way?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Ohio Enthusiast

Subaru's instructions seem to be much more involved. Why would they require so much more disassembly to jack up the engine if it's possible to do with so little? Also some folks here started from "yeah, just a couple of bolts" and then changed to "emm, actually there's a bunch more stuff that I forgot about". Not trying to dis you or anything, actually very interested in the easiest approach to do this (past experience taught me the value of time saved with additional disassembly vs. trying to squeeze through with all the stuff around the work area).

And another stupid question (that was mentioned here already but wasn't answered as far as I can tell) - can you access the plugs from underneath? Or would the suspension components be in the way?

It really is that easy. I’d still recommend removing the DI module. Pulling the fuel rail covers also helps, two small bolts each.

No way to access on the underside. Especially the passenger side where the OP/FP route underneath.

[radroach]

Originally Posted by RickyRacer

here's a comparison between my old plugs and new ones... i won't hold off on doing this for so long next time, now that im confident i can finish this job inside of a weekend window.


cheers all

How many miles on the old plugs?

Aren't the brown marks up the middle of the plug from the coil packs grounding and burning it? Thinking you might need new coils soon.