Changing spark plugs

[LotsaMiles]

I just looked under the hood.

I'm a bass player with quite large hands. I think I'm gonna jack up the engine. I'm almost at 120k miles so it's probably time.

BTW, I paid around $100 for the plugs from Amazon.

[LotsaMiles]

Originally Posted by Scenic Driver

Here's what Subaru says to do, if all of this is really required then I'd rather spend an extra hour or even two on top than deal with all of this especially since all of the exhaust nuts and bolts on my car are probably rusted by now.

1) Disconnect the ground cable from battery.
2) Remove the air cleaner assembly w/hose.
3) Disconnect the hose assembly from the sound creator.
4) Remove the two bolts and remove the sound creator.
5) Disconnect the front oxygen (A/F) sensor connector (A) and rear oxygen sensor connector (B).
6) Remove the two bolts securing the harness of the front oxygen (A/F) sensor, and remove the two clips from the stay.
7) Remove the two clips securing the rear oxygen (A/F) sensor harness.
8) Lift up the vehicle.
9) Remove the 12 bolts and seven clips to remove engine under cover No. 1.
10) Remove the seven bolts to remove engine under cover No. 2.
11) Remove the three clips to remove the front mat guard under RH.
12) Remove the two nuts and disconnect the joint pipe.
13) Remove the two nuts, two bolts and two compression springs to disconnect the exhaust center pipe assembly.
14) Remove the bolt to remove the exhaust pipe assembly FR.
15) Remove the two nuts and disconnect the joint pipe.
16) Remove the six nuts to remove the exhaust manifold sub-assembly.
17) Tie the joint pipe to the front crossmember using string.
18) Remove the nuts which secure the engine mounting to the front crossmember.
19) Lower the vehicle.
20) Remove clip (A) securing the engine harness to the engine hanger, clip (B) securing the battery cable and clip (C) securing the generator cable to the intake manifold protector RH, and clip (D) securing the generator cable to the fuse box.
21) Remove the bolt securing the harness stay from the intake manifold protector LH, and the two clips securing the battery cable from the intake manifold.
22) Install the ST1 and ST2 to the engine assembly.
23) Remove the clip securing the bulkhead harness to the vehicle.
24) Set the ST1 and ST2 to vehicle in order to support the engine.
25) Turn the handle on the top of the ST clockwise, and slowly lift the engine from the crossmember engine mount hole until it reaches the position where the engine mount stud bolts can be removed.
26) Lift up the vehicle.
27) Install the ST between the engine mount and crossmember.
29) Rotate the handle on the top of the ST counterclockwise to slowly lower the engine.
30) Remove the ST (ENGINE HANGER) from the vehicle.
31) Remove the RH spark plugs.
32) Remove the LH spark plugs.

What's a sound creator?
What does the engine hanger look like?
What's a joint pipe?
What is engine under-cover 1?
What do the oxygen sensor connectors look like and where are they?

Etc.

This is ridiculous.

Because of my large hands, I'm assuming I'm going to need to jack the engine. Sadly, I can't find anything on the internet telling you how to do that.

[fx1mark]

Originally Posted by LotsaMiles

What's a sound creator?
What does the engine hanger look like?
What's a joint pipe?
What is engine under-cover 1?
What do the oxygen sensor connectors look like and where are they?

Etc.

This is ridiculous.

Because of my large hands, I'm assuming I'm going to need to jack the engine. Sadly, I can't find anything on the internet telling you how to do that.

https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal..._rm_index.html

[FrostedFlakes]

I have lifted the engine before. It wasn't so bad. But that was back when I had stock exhaust and drive shaft.

Now that I have a 2.5" overpipe and one piece aluminum drive shaft I do not know how this will be as the clearance of these parts comes close to hitting the frame. I also have no idea how this may stress the drive shaft. Last time I did not disconnect my exhaust.

You can only jack it up so high before something starts getting caught on the frame as the whole transmission is connected not to mention your engine wires.

Remember to remove all battery connections,all strut bars, and don't forget to remove the connection to the alternator as that hard line will snap if lifting while connected. Also loosen or remove any intake connections that are bolted down.

Just be observant from top to bottom. Lift small inches at time then inspect if anything might be caught, listen for noises of stress on parts and look around. Also make sure you use a levelled flat block of wood to support the whole base of oil pan when lifting or you will risk denting it.

I also am not sure how far up you can jack the engine before it max out. It may or may not give you clearance from the side walls of the frame to easily remove the spark plugs. But at least you don't have to be reaching down below.

[theadmiral976]

Originally Posted by LotsaMiles

What's a sound creator?
What does the engine hanger look like?
What's a joint pipe?
What is engine under-cover 1?
What do the oxygen sensor connectors look like and where are they?

Etc.

This is ridiculous.

Because of my large hands, I'm assuming I'm going to need to jack the engine. Sadly, I can't find anything on the internet telling you how to do that.

Somewhere on this forum you can find a pdf of the service manual. It goes into a lot of detail on changing spark plugs, including lifting the engine. The only confusing portion is when they discuss the Subaru-specific engine hangars (STs, I believe). Don't worry about this - check on YouTube for "frs spark plug replacement" or something similar - there is a video showing you where to remove the engine mount bolts and where to place your jacks and jack stands.

[jmark]

My mechanic says it can be done without lifting the motor if you have the right extensions.

[Teseo]

Originally Posted by jmark

My mechanic says it can be done without lifting the motor if you have the right extensions.

And how he approach to the coils, from underneath?

Edit: i want to do it without taking apart half of the engine

[Scenic Driver]

Originally Posted by Teseo

And how he approach to the coils, from underneath?

Edit: i want to do it without taking apart half of the engine

Check the first post of this thread.

[sunrisecirrus]

I did it tonight. Not that bad at all. Here is my video.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4DTojPr6-0&t=3s"]BRZ Spark Plug Change - YouTube[/ame]

[Wyattkb]

Originally Posted by Teseo

And how he approach to the coils, from underneath?

Edit: i want to do it without taking apart half of the engine

You don't have to take apart anything but a few bolts and clips. I did it by using a bottle jack and some wood to jack the engine up a few inches on each side.

Takes patience but its really easy.

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by sunrisecirrus

I did it tonight. Not that bad at all. Here is my video.

I thought seeing DIYs not explaining on video

[LotsaMiles]

Just thought I'd mention that I'm at 128k on my original plugs. Everything's running fine. No missing, and still averaging 32 mpg with a manual.

[Kicker18]

Originally Posted by LotsaMiles

Just thought I'd mention that I'm at 128k on my original plugs. Everything's running fine. No missing, and still averaging 32 mpg with a manual.

Hello fellow Kentuckian. You actually have more miles than me-I'm at 118k, and I thought I was the high mileage winner.

[LotsaMiles]

Originally Posted by Kicker18

Hello fellow Kentuckian. You actually have more miles than me-I'm at 118k, and I thought I was the high mileage winner.

I'm now at 145k!


And I still have not changed the brakes. Brakes are for chickens.


BTW, I got a puncture in one of my tires and took it to the Bardstown Costco a couple of days ago. They said it couldn't be fixed so I bought a new tire at the guarantee pro-rated price. They slapped the spare on until it arrived.


So, it arrived and I told them I'd swap the tires my self. I get home and they were so tightly mounted that I snapped off a lug. I returned and asked them to do the rest. They said that if another lug snapped off they would have to have it towed out. After discussion they said I could have the lug(s) replaced and they would pay for it.


So I took it to my Toyota dealer and had them remove the spare. Two more lugs snapped off. They replaced all three and the lug nuts for $78.