Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Greenbean]

Originally Posted by gtengr

Nice! I didn't see the new blower on their website. Anyone else heard anything?

they do not look any different and they dont sell them separate. it was a very minor change that you cant notice by looking at it. It was just the wiring to the alternator it hit.

[gtengr]

Originally Posted by Greenbean

they do not look any different and they dont sell them separate. it was a very minor change that you cant notice by looking at it. It was just the wiring to the alternator it hit.

Yes I meant the kit/part number. The Jeg's website only shows the 2012-2015 kit.

[Greenbean]

Originally Posted by gtengr

Yes I meant the kit/part number. The Jeg's website only shows the 2012-2015 kit.

if you call edelbrock they will give you the new part number even the edlebrock website is not updated to say 2013-2017 it still says up to 2016

[86fun]

The last few times I drove and got on the throttle when the car wasn't quite warmed up it flashed a CEL and went away. Then the other day it just stayed on. I didn't notice a lot of difference driving and waited to get home to check it. DTC was Cylinder #2 Misfire. Got me wondering if I got one of the engines that had a poorly gapped cam angle sensor... but my VIN is way past the highest in the identified range, yet I still have a 2013 FRS. Anyway, I have one of those OBDLink Blutooth readers and reset the code. After doing this the engine was running like absolute crap, bogging, missing, very low power, even a small backfire, and the exhaust note was really loud. At first I thought my Edelbrock lost it's belt!.. but I could still hear it whining. I was stuck driving around town for a few hours with it like this. Near the end of my errands, having stared and stopped the car several times, the car started working perfectly again. That's when it dawned on me, the code reset I did with the OBDLink must have reset the ECU completely and it needed to relearn the throttle/cam timing again... oops! Just wanted to tell my story and share that if your car runs like crap after an ECU reset... even just resetting the DTC's, it's going to drive terrible for quite a while as the engine relearns some things.


Any ideas on the #2 Cylinder misfire?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by 86fun

The last few times I drove and got on the throttle when the car wasn't quite warmed up it flashed a CEL and went away. Then the other day it just stayed on. I didn't notice a lot of difference driving and waited to get home to check it. DTC was Cylinder #2 Misfire. Got me wondering if I got one of the engines that had a poorly gapped cam angle sensor... but my VIN is way past the highest in the identified range, yet I still have a 2013 FRS. Anyway, I have one of those OBDLink Blutooth readers and reset the code. After doing this the engine was running like absolute crap, bogging, missing, very low power, even a small backfire, and the exhaust note was really loud. At first I thought my Edelbrock lost it's belt!.. but I could still hear it whining. I was stuck driving around town for a few hours with it like this. Near the end of my errands, having stared and stopped the car several times, the car started working perfectly again. That's when it dawned on me, the code reset I did with the OBDLink must have reset the ECU completely and it needed to relearn the throttle/cam timing again... oops! Just wanted to tell my story and share that if your car runs like crap after an ECU reset... even just resetting the DTC's, it's going to drive terrible for quite a while as the engine relearns some things.


Any ideas on the #2 Cylinder misfire?

The learning goes away with a reset, but it should not run like crap. If it runs like crap, and then eventually goes away, there is a problem there that the ECU is eventually learning and compensating for.

You need to get your car checked out by a qualified shop.

[kidgogeta]

Any new updates or upgrades on the Edelbrock? Haven't been on forums forever but been running edelbrock kit without issues for past year now.

Current setup is just- edelbrock kit +JDL UEL header, 3" perrin running 265whp on 6AT tuned by Bob at Drift Office

Took it to drag strip yesterday for shits ran 14.01 @ 101 mph all night, was trying so hard to break into 13's lol the 6AT really holds me back can't launch for shit

[djenousis]

Originally Posted by 86fun

The last few times I drove and got on the throttle when the car wasn't quite warmed up it flashed a CEL and went away. Then the other day it just stayed on. I didn't notice a lot of difference driving and waited to get home to check it. DTC was Cylinder #2 Misfire. Got me wondering if I got one of the engines that had a poorly gapped cam angle sensor... but my VIN is way past the highest in the identified range, yet I still have a 2013 FRS. Anyway, I have one of those OBDLink Blutooth readers and reset the code. After doing this the engine was running like absolute crap, bogging, missing, very low power, even a small backfire, and the exhaust note was really loud. At first I thought my Edelbrock lost it's belt!.. but I could still hear it whining. I was stuck driving around town for a few hours with it like this. Near the end of my errands, having stared and stopped the car several times, the car started working perfectly again. That's when it dawned on me, the code reset I did with the OBDLink must have reset the ECU completely and it needed to relearn the throttle/cam timing again... oops! Just wanted to tell my story and share that if your car runs like crap after an ECU reset... even just resetting the DTC's, it's going to drive terrible for quite a while as the engine relearns some things.


Any ideas on the #2 Cylinder misfire?

I had a similar issue, can't remember all the details as it's been many months but my problem was an o2 sensor/aftermarket header issue.

[paiceyfan]

Here's an update on throttle issues...

So, this week, I got into the car and immediately felt something was not right. The idle was all over the place and would bog down and then spring up and then bog down and spring up and so on. I tried to drive it to work...as I have had this happen so many times now, I just live with it when it happens...and I got about a mile down the road and it was so bad, I had to pull over. I let it idle for a few minutes and it stabilized enough that I tried driving it to work. On the highway it was ok, but not really stable, as even cruise control was moving. This went on for two days and then it threw me a check engine light. I continued to drive...I know, I shouldn't do that...and it would not let me engage cruise control at all. Finally I stopped at home, shut down the engine, started her back up and the check engine light was gone. I put in the OBDii dongle to see what Torque would tell me and, just as many times before, it showed a Throttle Position Sensor issue. I cleared the code and shut down. I started it back up and immediately it was better. Next morning, I got in the car and prayed for no more issues and it started up, revved to 2,000rpm, brought the revs down to 950rpm and settled...very smooth, very normal. I drove the car and it seemed like it had a dead-spot at take up, so I had to give it extra throttle to start-off or it would stall. Drove to work and it seemed back to normal, except for the dead-spot. Next day or so it went back to normal and no issues.

All this is observation. I am not sure what causes it, but it happens often and is worse with AC on. I still think it is a low voltage or battery issue, so I am going to get a new battery after a business trip and will update you at that time. It could be that it is having to learn throttle position all over again, following low voltage states, but this is all guesswork.

I am not looking for answers or suggestions, but I thought it was useful information for someone

[CSG Mike]

A weak battery can cause all sorts of weird issues with this platform, and is not unique to the Edelbrock in any way.

Also, any CEL = no cruise control. If you try, it comes on yellow instead of green.

[sato]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

A weak battery can cause all sorts of weird issues with this platform, and is not unique to the Edelbrock in any way.

Also, any CEL = no cruise control. If you try, it comes on yellow instead of green.

Might be off topic, but this platform doesn't like leaving some OBD devices connected for too long. Had a CEL issue a while back, but was quickly resolved by removing the OBD Bluetooth adapter.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by sato

Might be off topic, but this platform doesn't like leaving some OBD devices connected for too long. Had a CEL issue a while back, but was quickly resolved by removing the OBD Bluetooth adapter.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

That's a bad OBD2 port. Common on 2013's

[paiceyfan]

Interesting... because I have a cheap OBDii dongle and it would throw CEL codes occasionally and I now do not leave it plugged in.

Originally Posted by sato

Might be off topic, but this platform doesn't like leaving some OBD devices connected for too long. Had a CEL issue a while back, but was quickly resolved by removing the OBD Bluetooth adapter.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

[Wraith272]

Originally Posted by paiceyfan

Here's an update on throttle issues...

So, this week, I got into the car and immediately felt something was not right. The idle was all over the place and would bog down and then spring up and then bog down and spring up and so on. I tried to drive it to work...as I have had this happen so many times now, I just live with it when it happens...and I got about a mile down the road and it was so bad, I had to pull over. I let it idle for a few minutes and it stabilized enough that I tried driving it to work. On the highway it was ok, but not really stable, as even cruise control was moving. This went on for two days and then it threw me a check engine light. I continued to drive...I know, I shouldn't do that...and it would not let me engage cruise control at all. Finally I stopped at home, shut down the engine, started her back up and the check engine light was gone. I put in the OBDii dongle to see what Torque would tell me and, just as many times before, it showed a Throttle Position Sensor issue. I cleared the code and shut down. I started it back up and immediately it was better. Next morning, I got in the car and prayed for no more issues and it started up, revved to 2,000rpm, brought the revs down to 950rpm and settled...very smooth, very normal. I drove the car and it seemed like it had a dead-spot at take up, so I had to give it extra throttle to start-off or it would stall. Drove to work and it seemed back to normal, except for the dead-spot. Next day or so it went back to normal and no issues.

All this is observation. I am not sure what causes it, but it happens often and is worse with AC on. I still think it is a low voltage or battery issue, so I am going to get a new battery after a business trip and will update you at that time. It could be that it is having to learn throttle position all over again, following low voltage states, but this is all guesswork.

I am not looking for answers or suggestions, but I thought it was useful information for someone

I thought I'd chime in here as I've been experiencing the same throttle issues as you and taiguy. My throttle almost always has a slightly dead spot at the beginning of pedal travel, causing low speed driveability issues especially in traffic. It will also however occasionally start surging at idle up to about 1500 or 2000 rpm and then drop to about 500 and try to catch itself but sometimes stall out, this seems to happen if I drive the car for more than an hour or if it's driven in heavy traffic but never lights a CEL.


I did try a throttle body cleaning and the dead spot at the top of the pedal felt immediately better, maybe even completely fixed for a time, but definitely gets less responsive again if the idle issues surface.


Would LOVE to find a fix for these issues as Seattle area rush hour traffic is brutal enough driving a manual without battling an inconsistent throttle and occasional stall.

[shr133]

Originally Posted by Wraith272

I thought I'd chime in here as I've been experiencing the same throttle issues as you and taiguy. My throttle almost always has a slightly dead spot at the beginning of pedal travel, causing low speed driveability issues especially in traffic. It will also however occasionally start surging at idle up to about 1500 or 2000 rpm and then drop to about 500 and try to catch itself but sometimes stall out, this seems to happen if I drive the car for more than an hour or if it's driven in heavy traffic but never lights a CEL.


I did try a throttle body cleaning and the dead spot at the top of the pedal felt immediately better, maybe even completely fixed for a time, but definitely gets less responsive again if the idle issues surface.


Would LOVE to find a fix for these issues as Seattle area rush hour traffic is brutal enough driving a manual without battling an inconsistent throttle and occasional stall.

Both issues are mapping most likely. The idle surge can happen if you change the intake, one of the maps is going too lean when you let off the throttle. The supercharger will make it worse. "assuming everything is connected and running correctly" and it's worse after a reflash, I'm narrowing it down and I almost got rid of it...

On acceleration there is a delay or hesitation or soft spot because of the transient delta1 and delta2 maps are still stock and need to be bumped up 3-5% on a N/A car and I would think a few percent more with the supercharger..

The transient map is the accelerator pump for FI... Start with a 3-4% bump and go from there. A little change makes a huge difference. Too much and it will feel flat. Will make the car feel much much better...