Will this fit? (width, offset and tire size Qs)

[Slick]

Originally Posted by Calidownhiller

Alrighy another one:

245/40/18 on 18x9 +42? Will I need a spacer in the front and will it clear. I'm lowered on h&r supersport.

I know jshadeck already responded but I'll qualify a few things:

• Camber will make a difference to the clearance. Jshadeck is running stock camber (i.e. 0).
• I am running 18x9 +35 wheels and had 12mm clearance to the strut perch before camber, after camber bolts, Eibach ProKit and alignment to -2.2, my clearance was down to 7-8mm. I would not want to go under 5mm clearance. Your wheels are 7mm closer to the strut than mine are and I had 7-8mm, so you do the math.
• If you are running H&R's, you already have some negative camber, and should have had an alignment so you should know what camber you're at already.
• Re; tires. I would suggest running a 35 profile not a 40 as it will be too tall on a 245 wide. Even a 255/35 has a smaller diameter than a 245/40R18. I'm running 245/35R18 on mine and gearing is under 1km/hr at 130k. (or .5mph at 60mph) so virtually the same as stock.

[jshadeck]

What he said ^^ im NOT factoring camber, yet...

[ill86]

Originally Posted by jshadeck

Right, in which case it is done for beneficial reasons, not solely fitment or "stance".

Lol I'm fully aware of that... I am not new to this. :-)

Of course it is done for beneficial reasons. I would never set a car up for "stance" unless it was a bippu build. Otherwise, I only do things for function. I'm not suggesting anything different here.

Originally Posted by jshadeck

I was thinking -1 on the twins for my preference.

Where did you come up with negative 1 degree for the twins? What about castor? (It will affect camber)

In the end it doesn't really matter to anyone but you, the driver. Alignment settings are both an art and a personal preference. Not a science. The same can be said for wheel and tire fitment.

[jshadeck]

Lol I'm fully aware of that... I am not new to this. :-)

Of course it is done for beneficial reasons. I would never set a car up for "stance" unless it was a bippu build. Otherwise, I only do things for function. I'm not suggesting anything different here.

That was my point, if its for function im all for -5 camber, i just would not run more camber than needed just for looks. I thought i said that in the first place, to which u replied "stock cars have more camber sometimes" made it sound like it was not being done for function or something...

Where did you come up with negative 1 degree for the twins? What about castor? (It will affect camber)

Because i like the stock handling pretty well, and up to -1 on the street shouldnt exceed "form over function". Was just a random ballpark off the top of my head from the track setups ive read on for this car. Who knows, maybe ill end up w more or less.

[Aydhayeth]

A couple of questions.. I was looking at concave wheels
Size:
18x10 ET's between 35 - 45.

Will it fit?
How will it affect handling?
Best tyre to fit bearing in mind that I'd like minimum wheelgap and MIGHT lower it a little to fix that issue.

Last thing I want is to fuck up the handling. Not planning on doing any track runs on it, just want normal driving but still be able to give it the beans without having to worry it going off on me.

[mike_ekim1024]

Originally Posted by Aydhayeth

A couple of questions.. I was looking at concave wheels
Size:
18x10 ET's between 35 - 45.

Will it fit?
How will it affect handling?
Best tyre to fit bearing in mind that I'd like minimum wheelgap and MIGHT lower it a little to fix that issue.

Last thing I want is to fuck up the handling. Not planning on doing any track runs on it, just want normal driving but still be able to give it the beans without having to worry it going off on me.

I wanted to keep things close to stock (weight, handling) without changing the steering geometry, so I chose 18x8 with more offset in the rear to bring it out more. At a 1.25 inch drop, you'll create more rear camber so it will be sunken even more on the top.

18x8.0 +45 front
18x8.0 +35 rear
Dropped ~1 inch

I was thinking if I got staggered 8/9s I'd just buy an adjustable rear sway bar and stiffen it up one notch. But like anything, you have to try it out to see if it works.

[Slick]

Originally Posted by Aydhayeth

A couple of questions.. I was looking at concave wheels
Size:
18x10 ET's between 35 - 45.

Will it fit?

Don't think so. You would need to go with coilovers to get additional inside clearance but it is going to poke out anyway.

Originally Posted by Aydhayeth

How will it affect handling?
Best tyre to fit bearing in mind that I'd like minimum wheelgap and MIGHT lower it a little to fix that issue.

It is too much wheel.
You are at the point of diminishing returns. i.e. you are not gaining anything by going to 10" versus 9" except adding weight. You can fit the biggest tire on a 9" wheel just as much as you can on a 10".

Originally Posted by Aydhayeth

Last thing I want is to fuck up the handling. Not planning on doing any track runs on it, just want normal driving but still be able to give it the beans without having to worry it going off on me.

Not sure what you mean by it going off on you, but adding extra weight will surely affect handling.

I would recommend going to a staggered setup so you can maximize the looks if that is what you're going for. Something like a 8.5F/9.5R will fit nicely.

[ill86]

Originally Posted by jshadeck

.

That was my point, if its for function im all for -5 camber, i just would not run more camber than needed just for looks. I thought i said that in the first place, to which u replied "stock cars have more camber sometimes" made it sound like it was not being done for function or something...

I believe we are misunderstanding each other. Run whatever amount of camber makes you happy.

My reply was simply that 1 degree is not a lot of negative camber and that other sports cars in the last 10+ years have left the factory floor with more.

It was just a friendly FYI, I didn't want you thinking 1 degree is a lot and will ruin your tires. Poor toe settings will kill a tire quicker than too much negative camber.

I build, race and instruct others on how to drive cars on track for a living. Again, just friendly advice from someone who has over 15,000 laps on track in various machines.

I never once suggested to run -5 degrees of camber for looks, fitment or anything to that extent. :-)

Peace. :happy0180:

[2point0]

Originally Posted by ill86

...I didn't want you thinking 1 degree is a lot and will ruin your tires. Poor toe settings will kill a tire quicker than too much negative camber.

^This x1000.

I have had to argue almost every time I've gotten an alignment.

"Did you mean you wanted -.1 degrees?"

"No, NEGATIVE ONE."

"Are you going directly to the track? I wouldn't do that on the street."

*sigh*



The only time I want zero camber is on a live axle.

[jshadeck]

@ill86 nope, no issue, i understood, we were both implying similar pov, i was simply referring to the one comment. I never implied -5 was stated by u or anyone, was just throwing out an odd number to imply that "whatever camber is best for the specific car/setup was fine, unless it was purely for stance and killed the function"

[Aydhayeth]

Originally Posted by Slick

Don't think so. You would need to go with coilovers to get additional inside clearance but it is going to poke out anyway.



It is too much wheel.
You are at the point of diminishing returns. i.e. you are not gaining anything by going to 10" versus 9" except adding weight. You can fit the biggest tire on a 9" wheel just as much as you can on a 10".



Not sure what you mean by it going off on you, but adding extra weight will surely affect handling.

I would recommend going to a staggered setup so you can maximize the looks if that is what you're going for. Something like a 8.5F/9.5R will fit nicely.

Won't fatter rears cause understeer?

[jshadeck]

Originally Posted by Aydhayeth

Won't fatter rears cause understeer?

Depends on tire size. 8.5/9.5 rims with a 245 tire on all 4 is almost the same handling as 8.5/8.5 with 245 on all 4.

[Slick]

Originally Posted by Aydhayeth

Won't fatter rears cause understeer?

To an extent sure, but add sticky tires (non-OEM) and you won't notice the difference, especially is daily driving unless you're being a hooligan, lol.

Also, stock suspension is over-steery, so staggered can help neutralize it a bit.

For the track and street I personally prefer a square setup, makes it easier to rotate tires for even wear.

[Aydhayeth]

And what ET would be recommended in the rear with 9.5? Don't want it sticking out.

That's a lot of rubber, I like a little stretch for the looks. But keep wheelgap the same or less as stock.