Nameless Performance Equal Length Stepped Header

[slava]

Originally Posted by raul

We're 13 hours into March 21st 2014, please don't torture us.

Im getting it done as we speak. Seeing some nice midrange gains.

[raul]

Mmmm midrange = autocross territory

[sato]

Originally Posted by slava

Im getting it done as we speak. Seeing some nice midrange gains.

Torture!!!!

Sent from my C6906 using Tapatalk

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by w00t692

When you do this with a header the torque completely changes in very specific spots. When you do this with an intake manifold it changes EVERYWHERE.

That will only be the case with a very flow restricted manifold. The acoustic properties do not magically change for the intake manifold. In fact from the higher energy from exhaust, will drive some acoustic events on the intake. This is probably what you are thinking about. Intake waves are driven by high velocity air suddenly smashing to a stop when the intake valve closes. Exhaust waves can transfer to the intake side during overlap creating a second wave set. But it is exhaust driven, and controlled. So you can get 3 wave driven humps (and sometimes corresponding dips), one from pure intake (actually possibly more because of runner, plenum and ram pipe sizing), one from pure exhaust (also possibly more from runner branches, branch resonator position, and overall system length), and one that is a mix of both.

The best intakes will be designed with exhaust in mind and vice versa.

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by RiskyTrousers

Won't be able to dyno on Friday, their header and overpipe isn't fitting quite right and it's causing the overpipe to to press against the head.

Here's a link to my post with a pic. Anybody else run into this?
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...99#post1612799

I ran into fitment issues with my 2.5 nameless over / front with my fa20club header, I hope it does not continue to be an issue with the nameless header, will be installing this weekend.

I think the best bet may be to hold off on torquing down the header to block bolts until the over pipe to header flange is bolted up. The over / front pipe also needs to be completely unbolted and free from everything else when you tighten up the header to over pipe flange.. trust me, i have had the flange leak on the top side every time I have worked on my current header or the

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by Sargy

Mine will arrive tomorrow.

interesting some people are saying the motor needs to be lifted 1-2 inches and some people are not lifting the motor at all.

?

Some people have better spacial awareness than others

[w00t692]

Originally Posted by Dimman

That will only be the case with a very flow restricted manifold. The acoustic properties do not magically change for the intake manifold. In fact from the higher energy from exhaust, will drive some acoustic events on the intake. This is probably what you are thinking about. Intake waves are driven by high velocity air suddenly smashing to a stop when the intake valve closes. Exhaust waves can transfer to the intake side during overlap creating a second wave set. But it is exhaust driven, and controlled. So you can get 3 wave driven humps (and sometimes corresponding dips), one from pure intake (actually possibly more because of runner, plenum and ram pipe sizing), one from pure exhaust (also possibly more from runner branches, branch resonator position, and overall system length), and one that is a mix of both.

The best intakes will be designed with exhaust in mind and vice versa.

Yep. Exhaust waves should be controlled greatly with stepped piping at specific intervals exactly to combat resonance waves that you don't want. It'll still be there, but ideally in a spot you don't necessarily give a damn about

Except in the exhaust case you've got negative pressure waves from the exhaust passing down the tubes and passing the other tubes at the merges, helping exhaust scavenging.

[FrsDuke]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

Some people have better spacial awareness than others

It certainly doesn't need to be lifted much (or at all if you are willing to kinda hammer it in,) but it is worth lifting just a bit to make it much easier. I unbolting the middle hanger on the front pipe to allow you to push the exhaust toward the rear also helps. Removing the fan clip and relocating it also makes life easier. The clip isn't easy to pull out and feels like you need to get in behind it to release it, but even pressure and persistence gets it loose.

How I shoulda woulda coulda

So from to top disconnect your o2 sensors and unclip their little harness so they can exit with the header. Unbolt the middle front pipe hanger and unbolt the flange by the cats. Shift the exhaust rearward. Now you unbolt the header from the heads and out it comes.. Loosen passenger engine mount and lift it without pulling it all the way off the bolt. From the top again pry the fan clip loose and decide on routing. Top requires more clip removal. Remove the resonator on the intake elbow and insert/clamp their plug. Make sure everything you need to secure from the top is done. Transfer your o2 sensors to the new header. Wipe the header down so you don't cook any finger prints onto it. Gloves are a good idea as usual. Now you can wiggle the header in place and snug it down on your hopefully new gaskets. I suggest fulling torquing them, but whatever. Shift the front pipe forward into position and make sure you will be able to at least get those bolts in the hanger started. Now it's op/header gasket/bolt time. Get it all started and see how much adjustment room you have. I used a new grimmspeed gasket on the op side and the nameless gasket on the header side. So two gaskets. No issues so far with leaks or fitment to the stock op.
Get everything snug/torqued plugged in etc. Before you replace the skid plate I would fire the car up and let it run up to temp and see if you hear or feel any leaks. Finally turn it off and let it cool down and make sure everything is still snug before you button up the skid plate.

Just my advise.

[slava]

Alright. First off I want to say I am very pleased with the results. Peak hp was not quite what I wanted, but mid range gains more than made up for it. Also I've been told that Dyno Dynamics reads lower than a Dynojet would.

Here is a stock BRZ (not mine, but done at same location) versus my car tuned.



As you could see, there is a 35hp increase at about 4600rpm's and a 39lbft tq increase at 4500rpm's.

Car feels soooooo much better. Throttle response has increased quite a bit and the it just feels MUCH quicker overall.

Here is my car before and after the tune.



Tune made a significant difference as you could see. All credit goes to Adam @Revolutions Performance.

And here's all three together.



Big thanks to Nameless @Ryan@Nameless @Jason@Nameless for a great quality product that made the car way more fun to drive.

Also want to say thank you to @Revolutions Performance for the tune. Provided great results and exceptional customer service, which is almost more important to me than the tuning. Really appreciate the hard work and the awesome experience. Would recommend them to anybody.

Can't wait to really test it out this Sunday at our first practice event of the year.

edit: forgot to list mods. Nameless EL Header, Nameless 3" downpipe, stock midpipe, Greddy SP Elite axleback, and HKS drop in filter.

[DatApex]

Originally Posted by slava

Alright. First off I want to say I am very pleased with the results. Peak hp was not quite what I wanted, but mid range gains more than made up for it. Also I've been told that Dyno Dynamics reads lower than a Dynojet would.

Here is a stock BRZ (not mine, but done at same location) versus my car tuned.

*SNIP ALL THE FANCY PICS IN THE MIDDLE*

Also want to say thank you to @Revolutions Performance for the tune. Provided great results and exceptional customer service, which is almost more important to me than the tuning. Really appreciate the hard work and the awesome experience. Would recommend them to anybody.

Can't wait to really test it out this Sunday at our first practice event of the year.

Hopefully everyone can relax now and understand quality parts are worth waiting for.

[FrsDuke]

And I don't see any mini torque valley aberration... Yay!
@slava this ecutek or brzedit or what? Any other supporting mods?

[slava]

Originally Posted by FrsDuke

And I don't see any mini torque valley aberration... Yay!
@slava this ecutek or brzedit or what? Any other supporting mods?

ecutek. I added the mods at the end of the post.

[cjcoupe]

*Clap Clap Clap*

Great to see! This is not the ecutek tune that Nameless is going to release?

[FrsDuke]

Originally Posted by slava

ecutek. I added the mods at the end of the post.

Looks great. @Revolution performance y'all want to share your cam phasing findings for the DIY crowd?