Electric Power Steering (EPS) noisy

[QuickieSilver143]

Originally Posted by ermax

Okay I posted directions here:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3199017

If anyone has any suggestions, corrections or needs a photo of something let me know. I wrote these directions from memory so I may have the socket sizes off.

I just wanted to come back and confirm this fix worked for me as well!

Two confirmed fixes to power steering clunk.

ErMax I ran into an issue you may want warn others of in your write up.

Seems I may have bent the bracket on the back of eps when trying to get enough space to remove that bolt. It was very difficult for me.

The problem this created was when reinstalling that bolt the threads ended up not lining up properly and I cross threaded the bolt. I had to just go ahead and bolt it all the way through cross thread. Thank God I didn't break it. Going to be hell if I have to take it out in future.

Any i would just add to be careful not to bend that bracket
Be careful not to cross thread that bolt.

And to help with reinstalling that bolt after if the bracket isn't lined up a C-clamp around the bracket would help line everything back up.

It was to late for me to try the c-clamp

I actually think I effed the bolt when trying to get it out.


Thank a lot again. Saving grace.

[HRTROB]

Yup the rear bolt was a huge PITA to reinstall. I removed the steering column side of the assembly but I still had a hard time reinstalling the bolt. I would imagine it being a lot harder with the steering assembly in place. There’s just one philips screw that you need to remove plus a couple of connectors then you can pull the whole steering wheel assembly out. If you decide to remove the assembly, make sure the steering wheel is centered and locked when you pull it out so you can easily reinstall it in the correct position.

I also ran into another problem during my road test. ABS and traction control lights were lit up. I thought there was a yaw or angle sensor that just had to be calibrated with techstream but it turns out I forgot to reconnect the brake light switch. So make sure you you plug it back in after reinstalling the bolt.

[ermax]

It takes a good bit of man handling to get the bolt out of there. I could see it being easy to widen that bracket. I’m trying to remember if that bracket can be removed. If I recall there is a trapped bolt behind the steering shaft that I think holds that bracket. I guess it wouldn’t hurt to pull the bracket and put it in a vice if it looks like it isn’t square. I just don’t understand why they couldn’t have give the extra 1mm to clear that bolt. I almost took a hammer to that little flap of metal that blocks the bolt but had visions of an airbag exploding.

I will add a warning to my instructions about this.

[Ultramaroon]

This has become my favorite thread. 10/10 guerilla fix FTW. Almost looking forward to mine fragging so I have an excuse to replace it.

You guys rock.

[QuickieSilver143]

Originally Posted by ermax

It takes a good bit of man handling to get the bolt out of there. I could see it being easy to widen that bracket. I’m trying to remember if that bracket can be removed. If I recall there is a trapped bolt behind the steering shaft that I think holds that bracket. I guess it wouldn’t hurt to pull the bracket and put it in a vice if it looks like it isn’t square. I just don’t understand why they couldn’t have give the extra 1mm to clear that bolt. I almost took a hammer to that little flap of metal that blocks the bolt but had visions of an airbag exploding.

I will add a warning to my instructions about this.

Yeah man I had the same thought with the hammer and came to the same conclusion. Then I thought I would take my dremel to it and thoughts of it slipping and cutting through some harness.

There is bolt in the top of that bracket but it seems to be just for stabilization purposes because the bracket is welded to the sub assembly of the dash. Which really sucks cause I cross threaded mine and there is no way to replace it.

Another issue I ran into which I haven't had time to look for is now when I turn the wheel I can like a "scratching or rubbing" sound somewhere but have no idea what it is. It's not very loud can only hear when parking or turning the wheel sitting still as my exhaust is to loud to hear it any other time. I'm sure it's not a very big deal and could be something stupid like a cable rubbing the column as it turns. Just annoying to fix one sound to hear another haha.

Aside from that the steering actually feels more connected after fixing. With the rattling sound I always felt like wheel was disconnected from the rack.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by QuickieSilver143

Yeah man I had the same thought with the hammer and came to the same conclusion. Then I thought I would take my dremel to it and thoughts of it slipping and cutting through some harness.

There is bolt in the top of that bracket but it seems to be just for stabilization purposes because the bracket is welded to the sub assembly of the dash. Which really sucks cause I cross threaded mine and there is no way to replace it.

Another issue I ran into which I haven't had time to look for is now when I turn the wheel I can like a "scratching or rubbing" sound somewhere but have no idea what it is. It's not very loud can only hear when parking or turning the wheel sitting still as my exhaust is to loud to hear it any other time. I'm sure it's not a very big deal and could be something stupid like a cable rubbing the column as it turns. Just annoying to fix one sound to hear another haha.

Aside from that the steering actually feels more connected after fixing. With the rattling sound I always felt like wheel was disconnected from the rack.

That's a bummer that it's welded. There are also two torx bolts on the brake that I considered removing to see if I could get that out of the way.

The sound you are getting on your car, is it simply the column cover not seated properly? That thing seems to just flop around. I'm amazed it isn't a huge source of rattles.

I also feel like the steering is improved but I wrote it off as a placebo of it no longer sounding like it was falling apart.

[CK155]

Wondering if this Toyota part will fit instead of the coupler from Hyundai.

[QuickieSilver143]

Originally Posted by CK155

Wondering if this Toyota part will fit instead of the coupler from Hyundai.

Lol wow. How'd you find that. We were all convinced you couldn't buy that part. That's the exact part that falls apart that we are replacing.

That being said the Hyundai is all rubber I'm hoping it holds up a little longer.

[QuickieSilver143]

Originally Posted by ermax

That's a bummer that it's welded. There are also two torx bolts on the brake that I considered removing to see if I could get that out of the way.

The sound you are getting on your car, is it simply the column cover not seated properly? That thing seems to just flop around. I'm amazed it isn't a huge source of rattles.

I also feel like the steering is improved but I wrote it off as a placebo of it no longer sounding like it was falling apart.

The column cover like behind the wheel? I don't think so but in suppose it could be. Seems like the sound is coming from farther down but definitely related to turning the wheel. Not like out clunk noise. I'm just hoping it's not the coupler inside the eps making the noise. I doubt I would be able hear that. It's just rubber I imagine it's making the noise I'm hearing. The column cover seems likely.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by QuickieSilver143

The column cover like behind the wheel? I don't think so but in suppose it could be. Seems like the sound is coming from farther down but definitely related to turning the wheel. Not like out clunk noise. I'm just hoping it's not the coupler inside the eps making the noise. I doubt I would be able hear that. It's just rubber I imagine it's making the noise I'm hearing. The column cover seems likely.

I’m talking about the cover that has the top and bottom half that wraps the column. I could see it being lopsided and running on the wheel but that sound wouldn’t come from down below so maybe that isn’t it.

I hope it isn’t the coupler seeing as you are cross threaded. If you could get it out you could maybe get a cut off saw in there to cut the flange nut off and replace the stripped bolt with a new bolt and standard nut. Maybe you could even get it in from the opposite direction and not have to fight with clearance anymore.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by CK155

Wondering if this Toyota part will fit instead of the coupler from Hyundai.

Nice find! Looks like Toyota sells this for a bunch of Lexus and Toyota vehicles. Just not for our car for some reason. I didn’t throw out my old coupler so I will order this Toyota coupler to verify its size and if it’s a match I will add it to my instructions.

[churchx]

ermax: my guess is that due mostly this car being subaru, toyota just issued own part numbers for most subaru parts and left it at that, but finding potentially compatible partial replacements instead of assemblies sold as a whole is up to us ourselves. Official dealerships will just replace whole thing, as it is in inventory system.

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by churchx

ermax: my guess is that due mostly this car being subaru, toyota just issued own part numbers for most subaru parts and left it at that, but finding potentially compatible partial replacements instead of assemblies sold as a whole is up to us ourselves. Official dealerships will just replace whole thing, as it is in inventory system.

But it’s the same thing with the EPS in the Corolla which is almost identical to the EPS in our cars. The coupler in the Corolla isn’t listed separately in the parts diagrams either. Thanks @CK155 for posting the Toyota coupler. It’s great to be able to get the OEM part, although I might try out the Hyundai coupler first since my original coupler disintegrated at only 18,000km (11k miles).

[ermax]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

But it’s the same thing with the EPS in the Corolla which is almost identical to the EPS in our cars. The coupler in the Corolla isn’t listed separately in the parts diagrams either. Thanks @CK155 for posting the Toyota coupler. It’s great to be able to get the OEM part, although I might try out the Hyundai coupler first since my original coupler disintegrated at only 18,000km (11k miles).

Yeah I searched the parts catalog for the Corolla and the Lexus C200h as both of those seem to use the same EPS but they didn't list a coupler. I just made the assumption that Toyota didn't sell it seperate for any of their cars. I should have done a generic search without specifying a car which is probably what @CK155 did.

Now I'm curious if there are any TSBs about rattle on other Toyota's.