Installed/How-To: 2014 Forester XT OEM Oil Cooler(pics!)

[Model Citizen]

Finally got around to implementing my adaptation.

Picked up a 08+ sti oil cooler and bolt on ebay for $55 shipped, let it spend a week cycling in an ultrasonic cleaner to make sure it was cleaned out. Also got a couple radiator t fittings and a set of silicone radiator hoses. Without the silicon hoses it was around $110 for the oil cooler and 2x radiator tee.

Pitfalls: There is a nub on the bottom of the oil cooler shown in the first picture, probably for alignment in its original use, it needs to be shaved or you end up with a massive oil spray. That really sucked.

Tweaks: fuel rail cover needs a bit of massaging to make clearance. Removing the cover also would work if you want some "weight reduction"


The line from the upper radiator hose runs out between the frame rail and ecu then behind the intake manifold where it is zip tied to the plastic clip points, it then runs under the manifold into the cooler, I did use a larger diameter hose as a sleeve for when it crossed under the manifold.

The line to the lower radiator hose basically just drops down.


Haven't done anything other than daily driving with it since installing, have an autocross or two this weekend. Previously i'd hit 240 on the oil (via scangauge) on one run, I'm not expecting much out of the oem plate, but hopefully a small reduction in peak temps and a faster return to running temperatures will be found.

Assuming the thermostat opens at 200 degrees that means this isn't functioning till that point, though at 70 degrees ambient pretty much any sitting still or hard throttle uses provides for 200+ coolant.

image by utekineir, on Flickr

image by utekineir, on Flickr

image by utekineir, on Flickr

image by utekineir, on Flickr

image by utekineir, on Flickr

Kraftwerks kit clearance

[CARNZ]

So you used an oil cooler without the little "pan" to catch oil when you remove the filter, and had to cut into your rad hoses?

Seems like a lot of trouble to go thru to use the incorrect parts.

Not trying to be a ****, just scratching my head

[keen as]

I am interested if there was any reason why you copied the Cusco kit method of cutting into radiator pipes compared to this thread suggestion of connection.


Is there a difference in the flow or temp of coolant with either method.


I think it is OK you use any type of Subaru oil cooler. The lip is not crucial.


Thanks

[Model Citizen]

Originally Posted by CARNZ

So you used an oil cooler without the little "pan" to catch oil when you remove the filter, and had to cut into your rad hoses?

Seems like a lot of trouble to go thru to use the incorrect parts.

Not trying to be a ****, just scratching my head

1) gravity drains the filter of oil after a few minutes of sitting, when I change the oil I try let the car be sitting long enough for the oil to go back from the heads into the pan (but still hot). None of the 5+ times I've pulled the filter has it ever spilt unless I pulled the filter right after stopping the car. My usual routine has the filter pulled after extracting the oil.

So basically for someone besides a tech in a service bay where there is no time to let the filter drain the lip is just about irrelevant. I did find that the k&n filter I had did have a small seep (hour of driving just a small wipable amount at ridge) and the bosh filter here worked fine. From what I've googled it seems like I'm not the only person whos ever had a given brand of filter seep on a Subaru.

2) I listed the prices paid. Counting the price of the silicon hoses I'm still under the cost of using all new oem parts from the original list.

3). I felt like seeing how it would work? Really it was mostly this, this thread has produced a few viable interpretations off the original idea, chalk this up as one more. The installation itself was incredibly easy.


Prices paid: $55 oil cooler and bolt, $48 for 2radiator tee fittings, $105 ish for unnecessary silicon radiator hoses, another lets say 10-15 for hose clamps and some heater hose.

Total <$250 nearly half of which was unnecessary.

[Model Citizen]

Originally Posted by keen as

I am interested if there was any reason why you copied the Cusco kit method of cutting into radiator pipes compared to this thread suggestion of connection.


Is there a difference in the flow or temp of coolant with either method.


I think it is OK you use any type of Subaru oil cooler. The lip is not crucial.


Thanks

Matching the proper bolt seems to be the important part with cooler choice.


Far as why I took this route, why not? I'll see this weekend if the temps or cooling time improve on autox runs. From the results I've found searching it looks like the cusco hose method or the oem implementations produce similar results I.e. Bound by the cooler unit more than "flow".

[CARNZ]

Cool, if it works, so be it lol

[Model Citizen]

Had an autox today. Temps mid 70s outside.

Car is on kw sc kit. Temp viewed via scangauge.

On runs oil got to low 230 range, easily cooled tonstandard running temps between runs.

Pre cooler would see 240+ on runs and it would take far longer for temps to return to normal.

My hackjob works.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

The fan temp change really helped stabilize temps over longer runs glad you did it. Also it helps keep the coolant out of the 212 zone. When coolant is fresh its OK but eventually as coolant starts to lose its ability to raise boiling point of water having fan activation set at 212F means accelerated water evap. The lower fan temp eliminates some of that.

quick question about the KoyoRad:

How did you burp the coolant system? Since my coolant temps were higher than the OEM radiator (204 F vs 230 F) I suspect that I might have left some air in the system.

Thanks in advance

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by glamcem

quick question about the KoyoRad:

How did you burp the coolant system? Since my coolant temps were higher than the OEM radiator (204 F vs 230 F) I suspect that I might have left some air in the system.

Thanks in advance

Drain radiator, refill cold. Attach burp funnel to radiator. Start car with heat on high, fan setting on high and let idle until temp gauge hits 1/4th. Turn off car open bleed screw then close. Add coolant as needed. Restart car. Let run until fans kick on. Turn off open bleed screw, then close. Hopefully coolant is coming out now from it. Repeat a few more times. Note, heater temp should go from mild to hot a balls.

Refill coolant as needed. Cap it and monitor idle coolant temps. If you have stock fan activation set, should be bouncing between 200-212 anr back down.

[The Slow One]

Does anyone know the part number of the allen plug if there is one? I'm going to go to a external oil cooler that came with my JRSC. I'm not home to make sure I still have that plug so I just want to be sure by just ordering that. Thanks!

[M1K3]

Originally Posted by The Slow One

Does anyone know the part number of the allen plug if there is one? I'm going to go to a external oil cooler that came with my JRSC. I'm not home to make sure I still have that plug so I just want to be sure by just ordering that. Thanks!

Here is the scion part# and link: SU00300106

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by glamcem

quick question about the KoyoRad:

How did you burp the coolant system? Since my coolant temps were higher than the OEM radiator (204 F vs 230 F) I suspect that I might have left some air in the system.

Thanks in advance

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0"]Amazon.com: Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive[/ame]

Best investment you'll ever make.

Fill radiator, fill funnel, let engine run.

-alex

[CARNZ]

^true statement. I use that thing everyday at work.

On another note, I'm glad so many of you have found this DIY Guide to be so useful, and all of the discussion regarding different approaches is awesome.

I had some more ideas for diy guides adapting parts off the DIT cars, but I've since sold the BRZ. I'll make sure these pictures stay hosted for future reference for all.

[Turkish]

Originally Posted by CARNZ

^true statement. I use that thing everyday at work.

On another note, I'm glad so many of you have found this DIY Guide to be so useful, and all of the discussion regarding different approaches is awesome.

I had some more ideas for diy guides adapting parts off the DIT cars, but I've since sold the BRZ. I'll make sure these pictures stay hosted for future reference for all.

Sad to see ya go, but thanks for committing to hosting the pictures! Two thumbs up sir! Best of luck with your next platform!

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