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Old 10-13-2019, 10:35 PM   #211
86TOYO2k17
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They probably would. It isn't the first time I've seen it happen. In fact, I'm pretty sure @kch had the same happen to him if memory serves.

I actually like the sound better with the stock FP. I probably lose a few ponies though.




I need cats for both volume and emissions reasons, else I'd just get the Ace FP. But that said, I like the sound of the stock FP and wouldn't love the rasp of a catless/unresonated FP.

I had a great experience with Zach when he was at DT. My NA JDL and A350 tunes were both rock solid. I'd work with him again in a heartbeat. It's just that driving out to distant areas where I can go 100mph repeatedly is a huge hassle. I'd rather just take it in and be done with it in a day.
Do you mean reducing pollution? Because WA doesn't do emissions. It ends in 2020 and even if it didn't end you’d have like 8 years before it mattered.

I wanted to have drift office tune my car but they refuse to tune sprintex sc. still been happy with my e-tune though. But definitely a reputable shop for this platform and should be able to really dial in not only WOT but drive ability.
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Old 10-14-2019, 12:08 AM   #212
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Since I had a track day this past Friday, I took Thursday off to install my Jackson Racing NA Oil Cooler that has been waiting patiently in my garage for over a month now. I didn't take any photos of the kit before the install, but I can assure you everything is of incredible quality. The packaging alone speaks volumes about the kind of company Jackson Racing is. They are one of maybe two or three companies I would trust with such a critical component like an oil cooler.

Installation

To be perfectly honest, this install was somewhat intimidating for me, as it was the first time I would be tinkering around with something that could cause serious harm to my engine if I made a wrong move.

Luckily everything went perfectly fine spare a single mistake on my end. Part of the kit's instructions call for the installer to relocate on of the horns towards a mounting point on the passenger side of the car. The instructions say this now empty mounting point will be used later, but they don't say for what. When it came time to install on of the two studs that the Setrab unit will sit on, the instructions didn't specify very clearly that you are supposed to use that empty mounting point for the stud. There is another unused hole directly to the right of that, so I mistakenly installed the kit's stud in the wrong hole (with Loctite) and ended up spending an hour with pliers trying to revert my mistake. Luckily I was able to reuse the bolt that the horn originally used since the stud included in the kit was beyond destroyed from me trying to rip it out, but it isn't ideal, and I'll have to find a replacement eventually. In any case, the Setrab unit is solidly mounted, and I had no worries about its stability.

The rest of the install's difficulty was mostly removing the bodywork. Having not done it before, it took me a while to figure out how to properly remove the sidemarkers (I broke one clip...sigh) and then struggling with replacing the bumper by myself. It was trial an error, but it all worked out in the end.

It took me about 6 hours, but if I had to do it again, I think I could do it in 2 or 3. Just like every first time install, I was going slowly and working methodically so I didn't mess anything up. That didn't exactly pan out, but I'm happy with the result regardless.

First impressions

Initial startup had no issues. No leaks, no surprises. I admit I expected at least a small leak, but there was literally no drama. It started right up, and started funneling some oil through the cooler shortly afterwards. The lines were warm, so I could tell even under low temps the thermostatic plate was designed to route some oil through the system at all times.

Taking the car our for a 10 min drive around town yielded the same result. No leaks, no drama. Around town, I could easily hit 210-230 (on dash temps) without the cooler in a handful of minutes. The kit obviously resulted in a longer warm up time, but I never went above 185-190 (again, dash temps—probably more like 200 in reality). I believe the kit was designed to never over cool the oil, so I have no plans of blocking it off in the winter.

On the highway, it was clear the kit was doing its job, as the higher speeds resulted in slightly lower temps. At stoplights, I could see the temps creeping back up. Again, never over 190ish.

Track use

The very next day, I drove the car 1.5hrs from Seattle to the Ridge, where I hammered the car all day in 75-80 deg heat. I never once saw the temps rise above ~220. I was laughing every time I hit the back straight given that I had seen my oil sitting around 250-260 at the last two events. Again, no leaks, no drama. The unit functioned perfectly, and I couldn't be happier. I can't tell you what a relief it is to be able to drive the car at 10/10 and not worry about the oil. Its one less thing to worry about on track. I could focus on my technique without worrying about the car's status on every lap.

I highly recommend this unit to anyone tracking their car. I know there are other great options out there, but this one checked all the boxes for me. The size of the Setrab unit alone makes it a no-brainer for me. I couldn't be happier.

Install photos











It looks like it's lopsided here. It isn't. I just hadn't tightened everything up yet.

any other lubricate used while u r install it?

and how much oil u add in to the engine ?
do we really need to take off the headlight?

i got same thing, the user manual saw bit less in detail
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Old 10-14-2019, 04:13 PM   #213
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Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com View Post
any other lubricate used while u r install it?

and how much oil u add in to the engine ?
do we really need to take off the headlight?

i got same thing, the user manual saw bit less in detail
Not sure what you mean by lubricant. I believe everything that was needed was included in the kit besides the extra quart of engine oil required.

Definitely need to remove the headlight to fit the hoses through.
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:38 PM   #214
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Quick update. I'm working with Bob at @Drift-Office to schedule a proper dyno tune. Really excited to improve the drivability and finally have some peace of mind. I'm hoping to also have them double check my JRSC install to just make sure everything is still looking good. Looking forward to sharing the results.

I've also placed an order for STi motor mounts, Whiteline subframe bushings, and Whiteline diff inserts. I've had the Whiteline transmission mount installed for almost two years and have been meaning to complete the story for a while. Since this car is still used on the street, I opted for a less-than-hardcore mount setup than I might have otherwise picked. If this was a trailered track car, I'd go straight for the Cusco stuff.

While I'm excited about having a more direct feel in the drivetrain, I'm also trying to kill two birds with one stone since my A350 is hitting the subframe under load. Not a fun sound to hear when blipping for downshifts.

As soon as I can find a second hood, I'll pick up some Trackspec hood vents to use during the track season. I want to make sure the car is rock solid reliable, running cool, and is relatively worry-free next season. I spent too much time this past season fixing exhaust leaks in the pits and fighting overheating issues and too little time working on my actual driving. Totally takes the fun out of track days when you're worried about the car in every session.

Last edited by mistople; 10-17-2019 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 10-17-2019, 03:56 PM   #215
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I've also placed an order for STi motor mounts, Whiteline subframe bushings, and Whiteline diff inserts.
That's a funny way to spell Porsche Cayman

Edit: so since you're keeping the BRZ, wanna buy my stuff? ����
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Old 10-17-2019, 10:35 PM   #216
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That's a funny way to spell Porsche Cayman

Edit: so since you're keeping the BRZ, wanna buy my stuff? ����
Ha. Yeah, decided it was best to stay with the bucket of bolts for now

What do you have left? PM me!
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Old 11-08-2019, 01:38 AM   #217
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JRSC Dyno Results

Last week I took the BRZ down to Drift Office to get a long overdue dyno tune. After a rather negative experience with the original DT tune, I decided to cut my losses and fork over the (not unsubstantial) cash to get it sorted once and for all.

Bill at Drift Office was super professional and took the time to learn about my car, what had been done to it, and any problems I've had or was currently having with it. Bob was out of town, so I didn't get a chance to meet him. But I was really impressed by the level of care they gave for a new customer. They certainly didn't give me the impression they were trying to make a quick buck.

Bill did a baseline with existing DT tune before jumping in and working off their own files. I want to note clearly that I rolled back to a previous version of the DT tune months ago as some of the final revisions were just undrivable given the low rpm bucking that has plagued me since installing the kid. I'm sure had I continued to log and flash revisions from DT that their tune would have made more power than displayed below.

A stock BRZ makes around 165whp on their Dynojet. I don't recall the exact peak torque numbers for their stock pulls, but that should give a general sense of the delta from stock.

Here is the before an after. Blue is DT, Red is Drift Office



While I expected slightly higher numbers (I've seen 285/220 on a stock header on this dyno), they don't really matter to me. It's not a competition car, and it feels plenty fast enough.

My immediate impressions are that the car runs much smoother overall. It feels noticeably faster after 4000rpm. However, it feels somewhat slower from idle to 3000rpm as confirmed by the chart. It doesn't seem as urgent to get going anymore. Their FI tune comes with launch control with an option to raise and lower the limiter by 500rpm using the cruise control stalk. They also give you two "maps", one of which is normal, and the other is a pseudo-burble tune which I haven't played with much. It doesn't feel all that natural to me as the revs drop suddenly quickly when it pops/bangs.

Now for the not so great part. The car still bucks under light throttle loads where the supercharger is just starting to suck in air. Bill told me this is a somewhat common occurrence with the kit. Although I couldn't feel it during the test drive down at the shop, it's clearly still happening. I can't blame Drift Office or Bill as the same issue has been present with both tuners. It could easily just be a mechanical issue that hasn't been diagnosed.

At this point, I'm very seriously removing the kit and going back to the beautiful simplicity that was just the NA A350 setup. At a certain point one just has to cut their losses and go back to the tried and true. The bucking issue combined with the unexpected heat issues on track have somewhat dampened the whole FI experience. It's not fun to feel like you can't just totally beat on the car and to not really worry about things going wrong. There's also just something about the car that feels unnatural that I can't shake. It doesn't quite have the same throttle response, the same immediacy when heel-toeing or blipping the throttle. It's hard to explain. The speed and power are amazing, but the car's character changed in a way that hasn't sat well with me. I'm obviously a minority as most seem to be quite happy with their kits. For me, I think I was happier when the car was closer to stock with just headers, tune, and an oil cooler.

I'll give it a few more days, but I may have a stock engine bay once again soon.
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Old 11-08-2019, 07:19 PM   #218
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That sucks.. but I really think for you to enjoy the car NA is the way to go and just your loss. As you said it's not a competition car and it's more about fun and putting down good lap times for your setup. Also it paves the way for you to sell the car and move on of need as you have talked about before. My innovate kit while not the best for the track drives perfect on the street. Super smooth and the car still feels na till the boost kicks in. Just feels like a 3L V6 with most of it's power up top.

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Old 11-09-2019, 04:41 AM   #219
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I can't help but wonder if Jackson Racing should chime in. The hesitation/bucking under light throttle doesn't seem to be a common issue in the JRSC thread in the Forced Induction forum, correct? At least I've never heard/read about it before.



It would probably be a good idea to check in with Jackson Racing themselves and also with CSG Mike perhaps.
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Old 11-09-2019, 09:14 AM   #220
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I can't help but wonder if Jackson Racing should chime in. The hesitation/bucking under light throttle doesn't seem to be a common issue in the JRSC thread in the Forced Induction forum, correct? At least I've never heard/read about it before.



It would probably be a good idea to check in with Jackson Racing themselves and also with CSG Mike perhaps.
JR and others showed many times and I have the same experience (if you care) that JRSC maintains factory daily driving and also track performance with proper preps. These are problems for a specific configuration.

Mistople, hope you don't take this wrong way but, imho, here is what I would do

- remove the ACE header and go back to stock header
- buy factory tune from JR
- check and fix all boost and vacuum leaks, replace MAF with a brand new one
- it should be so much better than the stock after these

JRSC with stock header is so much better than NA with ACE header
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Old 11-09-2019, 06:06 PM   #221
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I can't help but wonder if Jackson Racing should chime in. The hesitation/bucking under light throttle doesn't seem to be a common issue in the JRSC thread in the Forced Induction forum, correct? At least I've never heard/read about it before.

It would probably be a good idea to check in with Jackson Racing themselves and also with CSG Mike perhaps.
It's not common, but I've heard of others having the same sort of problems. Drift Office said they've seen it before too. I had them check the install and everything looked good. Not sure what else I could do as of now.


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JR and others showed many times and I have the same experience (if you care) that JRSC maintains factory daily driving and also track performance with proper preps. These are problems for a specific configuration.

Mistople, hope you don't take this wrong way but, imho, here is what I would do

- remove the ACE header and go back to stock header
- buy factory tune from JR
- check and fix all boost and vacuum leaks, replace MAF with a brand new one
- it should be so much better than the stock after these

JRSC with stock header is so much better than NA with ACE header
Even if I had all the tune issues sorted I'm still somewhat unhappy with the kit for other reasons. Temperatures and throttle response characteristics alone have soured the experience for me. I realize I am an outlier here.

I'm not interested in going back to the stock header right now. I'd blow the cats on track in no time. I'm also not super excited about spending more money on this kit. Buying two tunes was painful enough. Anyway, I'm not making any knee jerk changes quite yet. I'll give the tune a bit more time—I recall that previous DT tunes had bucking/hesitation issues for a while and then they went away. All I know is that the car wasn't any less fun NA. The peace of mind from having a stock engine, fewer moving parts, and less heat can't be overlooked on a tracked car either.
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Old 11-09-2019, 07:18 PM   #222
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It's not common, but I've heard of others having the same sort of problems. Drift Office said they've seen it before too. I had them check the install and everything looked good. Not sure what else I could do as of now.




Even if I had all the tune issues sorted I'm still somewhat unhappy with the kit for other reasons. Temperatures and throttle response characteristics alone have soured the experience for me. I realize I am an outlier here.

I'm not interested in going back to the stock header right now. I'd blow the cats on track in no time. I'm also not super excited about spending more money on this kit. Buying two tunes was painful enough. Anyway, I'm not making any knee jerk changes quite yet. I'll give the tune a bit more time—I recall that previous DT tunes had bucking/hesitation issues for a while and then they went away. All I know is that the car wasn't any less fun NA. The peace of mind from having a stock engine, fewer moving parts, and less heat can't be overlooked on a tracked car either.
I would suggest an adjustable recirculation valve to adjust the throttle response. I used a cheap RKX valve with stiffer springs and it has been a big improvement for me ... but mpg decreased. You just have to make sure that compressor surge is controlled and be aware that those adjustable valves need constant maintenance/cleaning/rebuilding. Just listen the whistle and watch throttle response, you will know when to rebuild the valve.
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