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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires. |
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10-11-2018, 11:33 AM | #15 | |
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10-11-2018, 11:37 AM | #16 | |
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10-11-2018, 11:37 AM | #17 |
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I agree with everyone that I need to check my tire pressure. Regardless, last time the PSI was 40, I did not have this issue. Is it possible I waited to long to rotate the tires and it screwed up the belts inside the tire?
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10-11-2018, 11:41 AM | #18 | |
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Edit: The car is stock height |
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10-11-2018, 11:44 AM | #19 | |
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Is it possible? Sure, but it's unlikely. Tire rotation is around evening out wear because the stresses on each tire are slightly different, which means the wear on each tire is slightly different. Evening out wear helps improve tire lifespan. But unless you have evidence of uneven wear, I wouldn't suspect that first. Pressures could cause odd behavior even if the wear is even. I'd recommend you do the following: 1) Check your tire pressure in all 4 tires 2) If necessary, set it to 35psi cold pressure (as recommended in your door card) 3) Jack up your car, secure it on jack stands, and take off one of your wheels so that you can examine the tread with a tread-depth gauge. You can take tread depth readings in a straight line perpendicular to the wheel face, which will let you see if the wear is even on the inside, center, and outside tread. 4) If you removed a wheel, make sure to properly torque your lug nuts to spec using a torque wrench (89 lb/ft) |
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10-11-2018, 11:48 AM | #20 |
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Regarding tire size... what size are your wheels? Diameter, width, offset?
If they're 17x7 or 17x7.5 you can run 215 or 225 section width tires, if they're 17x8 or 17x8.5 you can run 225 or 235 section width tires, if they're 17x8.5 to 17x9.5 you can run 245 section width tires... Offset + width determine if they'll rub On the stock wheels (17x7 ET48) you should be running 215/45/17 tires, of which there are absolutely tons of options. I would recommend buying high quality tires... don't cheap out on tires, they're perhaps the most important thing on your vehicle to maintain beyond basic oil change intervals and brake service. EDIT: Let me be clear, if I was on a very limited budget I'd emphasize doing other maintenance work myself so I can afford high quality tires and installation at a tire shop over pretty much any other thing I could do to my car. It's that important, and is not even specific to this platform. You can buy 6x1quart cases of Mobil 1 at Costco or Sam's Club for under $30 and an oil filter at any parts store for less than $6. Doing it yourself, then is less than $40 for a high quality synthetic oil. By the same token any parts store will sell brake pads which are serviceable for less than $50 for a pair. The labor on these sorts of jobs is what is expensive, and is worth doing yourself if you are budget limited so you can afford to buy quality tires. Personally, brand does matter when it comes to tires, not for scene points but because at the end of the day it's not brakes that stop your car, it's the tires, it's not your suspension that gets you through a turn or an evasive manuever or determines performance when it's raining or snowing, it's your tires. The tires are the most important part of a car after the engine, because that's all that holding you to the ground. I would only trust tires from Toyo, Yokohama, Michelin, Continental, Bridgestone, or Kumho personally. There may be other acceptable brands, but whatever the cheapest option at Walmart or your local Discount Tire is, that's not what I'd put on my car. Don't bet your life on Chinese rubber. |
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10-11-2018, 11:51 AM | #21 | ||
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If you do it at the right time, only should have to rotate tires *once* in their lifetime. Basically, when the *average* front and rear wear is halfway to the indicators, rotate. One thing that occurs to me: If pressures are different between left and right rear tires, the diff will act funny and you'll get a slight pull on accel and on decel. So, again, check pressures before you decide anything is really wrong with the tires. Quote:
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10-11-2018, 11:55 AM | #22 | |
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So I just checked the pressure on my tires and they were all 35-37. They are all now at 35 PSI. |
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10-11-2018, 11:57 AM | #23 | |
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Rays Gram Lights 57Xtreme 17x9 +40 |
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10-11-2018, 12:00 PM | #24 |
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I forgot how nice people are on this site when you ask a question. Fun times. lol
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10-11-2018, 12:07 PM | #25 |
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On 17x9 wheels you should be running 245/40/17 tires. Different make/models of tires are slightly different measured width on rim even with the same rated section width, but they shouldn't rub. Some 245s do rub on stock suspension, but most don't. If you can add some mild negative camber it'll prevent any rubbing though. +38-+40 ET is fine for that width of wheel though, so you should be fine.
@Leonardo may have better advice, he's a tire-sizing guru. |
10-11-2018, 12:31 PM | #26 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to finch1750 For This Useful Post: | Riftur (10-11-2018) |
10-11-2018, 12:42 PM | #27 |
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Thanks for the vote of confidence! @Tristor
OP, Rotating your tires is not needed. I was staggered for a few years and never rotated mine. My alignment was good, so my tire wear was very even. In my honest & humble opinion, you have inexpensive all season tires that are better suited for a non-performance car. I would suggest getting a quality 300 UTQG tire. (280-320 UTQG is a great compromise between stickiness and tire life) Or, if you must have A/S tires, get Michelin A/S3 tires. You will be able to tell the difference. Better tires improve: handling, braking, road noise, comfort, preciseness of steering, cornering confidence, and generally look better. ( not that looking better is very important) 245/40/17 fits great on a 17x9 +40. Though, your tire will be close to the spring perch in the front if you lower your car with springs.
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10-11-2018, 12:42 PM | #28 |
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