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Old 04-29-2019, 06:45 PM   #43
e1_griego
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STX competition at Crow's was fun, and we had a class of 23!

I went with -4.3* of camber in front and it definitely worked better on the concrete. Shoulders of the tires still wore (obviously) but they didn't look near as thrashed as I'm used to. We'll see how that much camber translates to the much-lower-grip Packwood surface this weekend.
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:33 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by smg1138 View Post
@H1C How much caster can you get with the GC camber plates?



I can't say for sure, but I would guess somewhere between 0.5 and 1 deg more than stock. As soon as I installed mine I slid them to the minimal setting, and that got me 5.7 - 5.8. I would say the slotted holes are around 0.75 inch long. I prefer OEM caster for the reasons given here:


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...postcount=3440



Sorry I can't be more specific!
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Old 05-01-2019, 10:09 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
STX competition at Crow's was fun, and we had a class of 23!

I went with -4.3* of camber in front and it definitely worked better on the concrete. Shoulders of the tires still wore (obviously) but they didn't look near as thrashed as I'm used to. We'll see how that much camber translates to the much-lower-grip Packwood surface this weekend.
I'm kind of wishing I went with more front camber for Crow's. Definitely don't want it for Packwood though so that's why I only went with -3.5. All of that is moot is I can't decide on compression/rebound settings though.
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:42 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by H1C View Post
I can't say for sure, but I would guess somewhere between 0.5 and 1 deg more than stock. As soon as I installed mine I slid them to the minimal setting, and that got me 5.7 - 5.8. I would say the slotted holes are around 0.75 inch long. I prefer OEM caster for the reasons given here:


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...postcount=3440



Sorry I can't be more specific!
I have the GC camber plates, I got very minimal caster gains.
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:51 AM   #47
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I have the GC camber plates, I got very minimal caster gains.
I'd mostly just use the adjustment to even out the caster. For whatever reason there's about a 0.5 degree difference from side to side on my FRS. On a different note, the GC camber plates are non-raising, right? Like they don't reduce suspension travel like some other designs?
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:00 PM   #48
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Yes, the camber plate features are all "above" the standard strut mount.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:24 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Locust View Post
I'm kind of wishing I went with more front camber for Crow's. Definitely don't want it for Packwood though so that's why I only went with -3.5. All of that is moot is I can't decide on compression/rebound settings though.
Last time I was at Packwood the car worked great at my settings. Just had to make sure to use Stones and not BFG's.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:49 PM   #50
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Car hasn't change much through the years.

Engine:
Perrin inlet tube
Perrin crank pulley
Perrin engine mounts
JDL UEL Header (Maybe JDL 4-2-1 later)
Perrin over pipe
Perrin mid pipe with high flow cat
Perrin 2.5 resonated cat back (Maybe single exit exhaust)
Shorai battery
Moto East ECUTEK tune (Still 91, probably retune if we go EL)
Radium PCV catch-can

Drivetrain:
Kartboy short shifter
Kartboy trans mount insert
OS Giken diff (re-tuned last year, may try OEM diff later)
Whiteline differential bushings

Suspension
MCS 2WNR (300/450 springs) rear shocks revalved by ProParts
-4.5/-3 (Probably need to lower rear camber, can't launch but probably user error)
Perrin front bar
Mann rear bar
Whiteline sub frame bushing inserts
PLM front end links
Whiteline rear end links
Vorshlag camber plates
SPC lower control arms w/ DIF bushing
OEM rear shock mounts

Wheels/Tires:
3 x Weds Sport TC105N 17x9 +35 (BFG Rival S 1.5, RE-71R, Conti ECS 245/40/17)

Interior:
Sparco Pro2000 seat
Custom aluminum seat base and slider
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:26 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justint5387 View Post
Car hasn't change much through the years.

Engine:
Perrin inlet tube
Perrin crank pulley
Perrin engine mounts
JDL UEL Header (Maybe JDL 4-2-1 later)
Perrin over pipe
Perrin mid pipe with high flow cat
Perrin 2.5 resonated cat back (Maybe single exit exhaust)
Shorai battery
Moto East ECUTEK tune (Still 91, probably retune if we go EL)
Radium PCV catch-can

Drivetrain:
Kartboy short shifter
Kartboy trans mount insert
OS Giken diff (re-tuned last year, may try OEM diff later)
Whiteline differential bushings

Suspension
MCS 2WNR (300/450 springs) rear shocks revalved by ProParts
-4.5/-3 (Probably need to lower rear camber, can't launch but probably user error)
Perrin front bar
Mann rear bar
Whiteline sub frame bushing inserts
PLM front end links
Whiteline rear end links
Vorshlag camber plates
SPC lower control arms w/ DIF bushing
OEM rear shock mounts

Wheels/Tires:
3 x Weds Sport TC105N 17x9 +35 (BFG Rival S 1.5, RE-71R, Conti ECS 245/40/17)

Interior:
Sparco Pro2000 seat
Custom aluminum seat base and slider
JDL 4-2-1 sucks, don't waste your time with a retune at all. Just don't buy the header either

What's interesting though is you're thinking about OEM Diff again....
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:40 PM   #52
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JDL 4-2-1 sucks, don't waste your time with a retune at all. Just don't buy the header either
What makes the JDL 4-2-1 suck? I thought it provided noticeable gains over their UEL version.
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:32 PM   #53
strat61caster
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What makes the JDL 4-2-1 suck? I thought it provided noticeable gains over their UEL version.
Eh I'm bored waiting for Kyle to respond, it was talked about in the big STX thread, I bet there's a bunch of 'marginal gains for big bucks' a touch of 'maybe ACE would've been better' or maybe a full dose of "imma be facetious so maybe Tsang doesn't get any more powah by September"


When it comes to the long tube headers I liked Justin's review, a lot of people saw that as validation for the performance/money, I saw that and thought I'd be better off spending the $2k+ on another set of tires or two and as much seat time and test and tuning as I can schedule. I'm certainly not losing because of 15 hp at X.X rpm.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125559
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:24 PM   #54
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Eh I'm bored waiting for Kyle to respond, it was talked about in the big STX thread, I bet there's a bunch of 'marginal gains for big bucks' a touch of 'maybe ACE would've been better' or maybe a full dose of "imma be facetious so maybe Tsang doesn't get any more powah by September"


When it comes to the long tube headers I liked Justin's review, a lot of people saw that as validation for the performance/money, I saw that and thought I'd be better off spending the $2k+ on another set of tires or two and as much seat time and test and tuning as I can schedule. I'm certainly not losing because of 15 hp at X.X rpm.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125559
I think Kyle is trolling me. lol
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:52 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by M0nk3y View Post
JDL 4-2-1 sucks, don't waste your time with a retune at all. Just don't buy the header either

What's interesting though is you're thinking about OEM Diff again....
They bought the car with the diff and never ran stock. They're too cheap to buy an OS outright
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Old 05-03-2019, 02:02 PM   #56
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Finally got my car back from the chassis alignment shack,

Front Camber: -2.25 * ( stock top hats whiteline camber bolts only)
Rear Camber: -2.0 rear ( cusco rear could dial in 3.25 from what the guy said)
Front Total Toe: 1/16 out
Rear Total Toe: 1/16 in
Front Caster Matched: 8 Degrees (again stock top hats)
Endlinks reset with no preload at full rest. and draw stiffeners also reduced preload to neutral at rest.

The car handles like a dream now and its extremely manageable. Im shocked by how archaic the suspension is ( the rear subframe is literally a 11 wrx) and the front is macpherson, but it does so well
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