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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 11-13-2015, 11:18 PM   #9661
Shiv@Openflash
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Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain View Post
@Shiv@Openflash, any update on my PM that purchasing Procede?
Sorry, would you mind email sales@openflashperformance.com instead?
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:22 PM   #9662
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Originally Posted by Shiv@Openflash View Post
Hi guys,
Just thought some might be interested.... We are finalizing the ESC kit for the new 2016 Mazda MX5. Info and pics here:


http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=593688
andu
https://www.facebook.com/OpenFlash-P...3431676670350/


Noooo! You have plenty of people here itching to purchase the kit!
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:11 AM   #9663
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Kit should be expanded with electric generator turbo spooled up by exhaust. This way one should never worry about battery draining or extra power usage to generate electricity via normal generator. And if one goes on high-rpms/high-load for long periods of time, it will at same time also generate more power in turbo, to compensate more power usage by electric SC.
Yes, simple mechanical directly linked turbo on exhaust-intake probably will have less mechanical energy losses, but electric one due no direct link will keep all pros of ESC like fine tunable to any rpms/loads, full forced induction in low rpms too, no need for blow off valves and alike things to workaround classic turbo cons. Imho that (ESC+Eturbo generator) should be future of motoring.
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Old 11-15-2015, 03:08 PM   #9664
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Kit should be expanded with electric generator turbo spooled up by exhaust. This way one should never worry about battery draining or extra power usage to generate electricity via normal generator. And if one goes on high-rpms/high-load for long periods of time, it will at same time also generate more power in turbo, to compensate more power usage by electric SC.
Yes, simple mechanical directly linked turbo on exhaust-intake probably will have less mechanical energy losses, but electric one due no direct link will keep all pros of ESC like fine tunable to any rpms/loads, full forced induction in low rpms too, no need for blow off valves and alike things to workaround classic turbo cons. Imho that (ESC+Eturbo generator) should be future of motoring.

Cool. Make it and post your progress. Can't wait.
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:40 PM   #9665
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Originally Posted by churchx View Post
Kit should be expanded with electric generator turbo spooled up by exhaust. This way one should never worry about battery draining or extra power usage to generate electricity via normal generator. And if one goes on high-rpms/high-load for long periods of time, it will at same time also generate more power in turbo, to compensate more power usage by electric SC.
Yes, simple mechanical directly linked turbo on exhaust-intake probably will have less mechanical energy losses, but electric one due no direct link will keep all pros of ESC like fine tunable to any rpms/loads, full forced induction in low rpms too, no need for blow off valves and alike things to workaround classic turbo cons. Imho that (ESC+Eturbo generator) should be future of motoring.
There's already an alternator providing enough power to recharge. The problem is the batteries can't be recharged quickly. It's a speed problem rather than an amperage problem. You want quick recharge and quick drain, you need to convert it all to capacitors. A turbine-spun generator would also produce way more than 12 volts, which the batteries couldn't handle quickly. A capacitor bank could handle high voltage/high amperage charges and loads.
How about this; twin turbo's at the tailpipes, feeding into a Phantom ESC in front of the radiator, which in turn feeds into a front-mounted intercooler, and then past the MAF and into the engine. A high-pressure cutout switch before the ESC turns it off when it's not needed.
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:32 AM   #9666
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Cool. That's really my question here: can you make this track ready.

I have not taken it to the track.
I have noticed that I get this fail safe after 5 or 6 pulls, totalling around 45secs of full throttle.


From the Phantom supercharger website install guide:
--------------24.X – 28.X volts. Throttle switch activated but no boost. Thermal motor control protection. * Resets in 2-10 seconds *let unit recharge and cool.-------------

Anyone else get this so easily? Has anyone put cooling on the electric motor?


I assume I have no problems with the batteries because I don't get any other problems listed in the install guide.
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Old 11-16-2015, 06:52 AM   #9667
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Originally Posted by churchx View Post
Kit should be expanded with electric generator turbo spooled up by exhaust. This way one should never worry about battery draining or extra power usage to generate electricity via normal generator. And if one goes on high-rpms/high-load for long periods of time, it will at same time also generate more power in turbo, to compensate more power usage by electric SC.
Yes, simple mechanical directly linked turbo on exhaust-intake probably will have less mechanical energy losses, but electric one due no direct link will keep all pros of ESC like fine tunable to any rpms/loads, full forced induction in low rpms too, no need for blow off valves and alike things to workaround classic turbo cons. Imho that (ESC+Eturbo generator) should be future of motoring.
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Old 11-16-2015, 02:17 PM   #9668
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Originally Posted by keen as View Post
I have not taken it to the track.
I have noticed that I get this fail safe after 5 or 6 pulls, totalling around 45secs of full throttle.


From the Phantom supercharger website install guide:
--------------24.X – 28.X volts. Throttle switch activated but no boost. Thermal motor control protection. * Resets in 2-10 seconds *let unit recharge and cool.-------------

Anyone else get this so easily? Has anyone put cooling on the electric motor?


I assume I have no problems with the batteries because I don't get any other problems listed in the install guide.
Does your controller have the fan on it? Not all controllers came with the same cooling setup. I would recommend first checking your cables to the motor. A cable could be loose and arcing, causing the controller to work that much harder, and overheat. Second, does your header create a lot of heat near the motor?
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Old 11-16-2015, 02:45 PM   #9669
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The fan on my aux charger has started making a pretty loud humming sound when the car is first turned on when cold. Goes away after it warms up a bit. I've checked to make sure nothing is resting on it that could cause that sound. Is there an easy way to replace that fan or should I just try tightening it down?
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Old 11-16-2015, 03:59 PM   #9670
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Originally Posted by KoolBRZ View Post
Does your controller have the fan on it? Not all controllers came with the same cooling setup. I would recommend first checking your cables to the motor. A cable could be loose and arcing, causing the controller to work that much harder, and overheat. Second, does your header create a lot of heat near the motor?

My controller was updated to latest cooling specs and has a fan. According to the install guide, the controller is not triggering the failsafe
http://www.phantomsuperchargers.com/.../frs-brz4a.pdf


Fail safes




-26.X volts peak.Thermal battery de-rate. Boost can be used but is slightly reduced.




* Resets 5-20min depending on engine bay temps.




-24.X –28.Xvolts. Throttle switch activated but no boost. Thermal motor control protection.






* Resets in 2-10 seconds *let unit recharge and cool.




-17.0 volts, no boost, low voltage cut-off. Tripped if batteries are poor quality.






-Triggering fail safes is normal, position box away from direct heat and expose all surfaces to air.




-Intermittent use times: Duty cycle, up to 20%. Continuous, up to 60 secs. (30 seconds recommended).
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Old 11-20-2015, 11:26 PM   #9671
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My kit is still running strong (dual chargers and the procede controller box).

BUT 2 Cdn winters have killed my starter battery where I've had to jump it twice (I have a portable lithium jumper). What's the best/most amp replacement battery I can fit in there without relocating to the trunk?
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Old 11-20-2015, 11:29 PM   #9672
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My kit is still running strong (dual chargers and the procede controller box).



BUT 2 Cdn winters have killed my starter battery where I've had to jump it twice (I have a portable lithium jumper). What's the best/most amp replacement battery I can fit in there without relocating to the trunk?

Were you using the odyssey battery?


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Old 11-21-2015, 02:06 PM   #9673
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Don't think so - Rob sold me some batteries when I bought the kit.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0h...E2dXJtSGs/view

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0h...IwVGpqb00/view
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:56 PM   #9674
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Snag the odyssey battery that is recommended now with the heat shield. Should do you fine.


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