08-15-2017, 10:27 AM | #141 | |
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Good question,, not sure I have a good answer. I would guess the tailshaft housing might work,,, wonder if measuring off crank pulley would be the same??
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08-15-2017, 11:23 AM | #142 |
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At least that would get you pretty close I'd think.
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08-15-2017, 05:27 PM | #143 |
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It's not rocket surgery, get it close and call it good. Off the back of the transmission works fine. The balancer darn well better be the same angle!
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08-20-2017, 07:05 PM | #144 |
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OK,,, some good news. Yes,,, the Holden pan bolts right up. It straddles the cross member and the motor mounts plates should work. I will need to make a new hood.
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08-20-2017, 07:19 PM | #145 |
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pics
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08-21-2017, 07:31 AM | #146 |
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Couple of additional thoughts. Inside of motor is super clean which is good. I didn't seal the pan as of yet,,, just in case it needs mods. BTW,, getting the crank pulley off was a complete pain.
Clutch master will be an issue as the HP pump stuff is right there. It'll be the next thing I work on. Not exactly sure what will happen,,, recess it maybe with a remote fill. AC expansion valve location should be OK,, I'll just skip the heat stuff for now. Don't need it here anyway. Trans isn't in yet but based on my measurements the stock cross member location may just work with the way the mount on the trans is. It be a whole lot easier to fab the mounts with a bare block. Having the motor hooked to the picker makes it tough getting in there The motor is still a little high in these pics. I'm guessing I'll shoot for about an inch between the cross member/rack and the pan. How much space are you guys ending up with?? Exhaust on the drivers side will be tight with the starter there.
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08-21-2017, 09:53 AM | #147 |
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Looks a little tall
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08-21-2017, 03:35 PM | #148 |
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It is no doubt. Modding or making a hood is doable,,, but I worry about the aesthetics as I tend to like a more stock exterior. I'll do some quick measurements tonight. Still diggiing this one. Fender shape is simular to FRS so it works pretty good. I'd certinally want the smallest version possible though.
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08-27-2017, 08:28 PM | #149 |
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Peek-a-Boo Clutch MC,,, recessed 2",,, will start on motor mounts next week
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09-03-2017, 06:56 PM | #150 |
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Well,, had to finish up the clutch master which I did. All seems to be good. It's 4 1/4" from the face that bolts to the firewall to the leading edge of the clevis. I opted to drill out the OEM clevis and weld in a 5/16 24 bolt. Everything seems to fit just right.
I've ordered some filler, primer and spray paint to cover the firewall where I've taken out the brace support. I had thought I'd start on the motor mounts but opted to blow apart the wiring harness. I have a bunch of question for the guys that came before me,, but I'm short on time tonight. Off to Las Vegas tomorrow for the Ron Fellows driving school. Thrashing someone else's Corvette for a few days sounds like lots of fun!!!
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09-03-2017, 10:41 PM | #151 |
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looks good bud. I need to start my log soon. I just removed the trans mount brace which sucks ass!
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09-04-2017, 05:22 AM | #152 | |
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Quote:
I tried using the spot weld bit on that brace mount. Broke 3. Ended up using the cut off wheel to finish it off. Not looking forward to the trans brace,,, hoping it can stay.
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09-05-2017, 09:28 AM | #153 |
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That was a really good ideal recessing the clutch master like that. Didn't even think about that on mine. I really like it.
Assuming you got the spot weld bits from harbor freight? They suck pretty bad, I went through quite a few. Using a center punch and starting slow seemed to work best for me. I also found that they would either break early, or do well until they got dull. Pretty sure I wore two of them out.
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09-05-2017, 10:16 AM | #154 |
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I will tell you guys. When I did the trans tunnel brace, I swapped back and forth with the drill and I actually bought a 3/8" belt sander at HF and sanded the welds enough to separate them with a screwdriver and hammer. Worked pretty well. Do you have any pictures of what it looks like on the other side of the engine bay for the clutch master?
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