GM LFX 3.6L V6 Motor Swap

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

It may be nothing but I wonder, with the mounts so far inboard, if the bar will respond to the moment couple by bending more than twisting.

It's certainly a concern for me, I don't really like where they ended up. The mounts are right at 8" inside and it might be possible to move them out about 4" which would help. To do that I'd need to fill in that dished out area in the crossmember with a top and side plate so there's something to weld the mount to. Why was that dished out like that?? Cylinder head maybe?? Something to chew on this week.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by gtpvette

It's certainly a concern for me, I don't really like where they ended up.

I don't envy your dilemma. I've been looking at your photos since you first identified the need. Wish I had some magic-bullet idea to share. :/


If I was in your area I'd offer to lend a hand for sure!

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I don't envy your dilemma. I've been looking at your photos since you first identified the need. Wish I had some magic-bullet idea to share. :/


If I was in your area I'd offer to lend a hand for sure!

Thanks for the offer,, you're welcome anytime. I posted on Corner Carvers asking for input. A guy came back asking why I didn't install the bar inside a tube. A very good idea and they are installed that way all the time. Just ordered a 2" tube .188 wall 36" long,, speedway sells nylon inserts for the 1" sway bar 1 5/8 OD.


The only question is if I weld the tube in,, how tough will it be to get the bar inside of it?? As an alternative,,make the tube bolt in.


Stay tuned....

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by gtpvette

A guy came back asking why I didn't install the bar inside a tube. A very good idea and they are installed that way all the time. Just ordered a 2" tube .188 wall 36" long,, speedway sells nylon inserts for the 1" sway bar 1 5/8 OD.

Wow. Last weekend I thought about the torsion springs on my old VWs and immediately dismissed the idea because of how complicated it would be. Maybe split the tube and bolt it together? I tend to overdesign in my head and whittle down from there.

[gtpvette]

One step forward,,,, two back. So dropped the motor back in a week or so ago,,, bar mock up hits the oil pan. SHIT! The problem stems from the original mock up using the OEM bar. First the OEM bar is much small than a 1" bar and it also has U shaped bend in the middle leaving lots of room around the pan. Not so much with a 1" straight bar.



OK,, so I cut out the sway bar mounts I just added. I also got in a 2" tube that will span across the front of the cross member the new bar can fit within (nylon bushing on both ends),, or I can go back with original mounts. I will say that 2" tube is heavy though,,but would be plenty strong. Waiting for my bar to come in before I decide. Should be here this week (FINALLY!).



Another while I'm here and as the front end is ripped apart,, ordered a set of Koni one way adjustable shocks at a really good price. Scope creep is expensive.
+

As a backup plan to the current sway bar plan ,,, I have almost secured another oil pan from Australia,, it's a pain getting someone to ship to the US. I could cut part of the back of the sump out to make a bit more room for the bar. Maybe.

[gtpvette]

Been some time since an update. Well, new sway bar is done. Got the 2" tube the sway bar rides in welded in place. I also cut a section out of the middle getting the sway bar really close to the oil pan. Maybe 1/8” clearance. I do believe I could cut out this center section now that everything is welded up,, I left it one piece to start to keep the ends aligned so there would be no binding in the nylon bushings.

Cut and welded up the sway bar arms basically ended up as an ‘L’. Looks to clear everything in full range of motion although it’s tight at full droop. 5” arm length plus one hole closer which would stiffen it more. I had one additional hole farther away but had to cut it off as it hit the steering rack.

Next up is to disassemble the front end and put it back together with new shocks. Will try to get a basic alignment but it’ll need to get it done professionally. There’s a guy here locally that does a couple of buddies race cars so I’m sure he can dial in the Racer-x Control Arms. I’m interested in getting it on the scales to see what it weighs as compared to a stock car. I think it’ll be close.

I was also able to finally get someone to ship me another oil pan from Australia. Good god it's dirty. Shipping was almost as much as the pan. Go figure. Good to have a backup in case I end up cutting one up some.

Scope creep got me again. The tires I have on the car are all but shot so I needed a new set. Well hell,, rims are on sale (black Friday) so bought 18”x10” +10 F14 Forgestar’s and 285/30 tires. Coming from 17x9’s. Going to need some small flares now.

[gtpvette]

a few more

[Zer0]

Looks like you are making good progress on your sway bar setup. I like your solution.

[Erik Dlux]

What year, car and auto/manual PCM did you get? Have you been able to check that it will work yet?

On that trans pan, if you get in a real bind, I could help you cut it and weld it up like I had to with mine. Also, not sure if it helps but you could have my old pan for shipping cost to see if it would work with some effort? I dont know if you read my build thread but it warped too much for me to use. I didnt put any effort into stretching it back out though.

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by Erik Dlux

What year, car and auto/manual PCM did you get? Have you been able to check that it will work yet?

On that trans pan, if you get in a real bind, I could help you cut it and weld it up like I had to with mine. Also, not sure if it helps but you could have my old pan for shipping cost to see if it would work with some effort? I dont know if you read my build thread but it warped too much for me to use. I didnt put any effort into stretching it back out though.

Hey there,,,,
Originally went with the PCM that came with the motor but a 2015 PCM is an E39A and V8Roadsters wont/cant flash that (E39 only) and it was for an automatic and I needed the VSS signal from the manual trans. Got a 2012 E39 for a manual transmission car off of Car-Parts.com for $100 or so. Had V8Roadsters flash it (VATS and Tune).


I think I'm OK for now on the pan. When I mocked up the current setup the motor was in the car. It was tight but it fit. That said,,, motor hasn't been back in since I welded everything up so you never know. I'm in the middle of wiring,,, dash is pulled apart. Once that's done motor goes back in as I need to do AC hoses (got my crimper in this week!).


Here's where I learned about the E39 PCM,, nice build.


https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...x-build-87186/

[Erik Dlux]

Yeah, read that build 2x. I even posted on there asking about the pcm. One guy in that thread had issues and finally got it to work. Same year, car and trans as his motor. It was a 2015 so I don't get why he got it to work?

So that PCM you have, is it from a Camaro or does it not matter what car? I have a e39 pcm from a 2012 ctv so it would be nice if I could use that. I have no idea of it was auto or manual though.

Searching for a 2015 Camaro with an manual was horrible. I hope I don't have to do similar again.

I talked to the guy at Overkill. He said I can buy hp tuners for personal use and then he can do the tuning thru email for me. Kinda cool as he can tweak things and then I can mess with them also. He also does free tuning whenever you want after the first time, like if you were to change something on the motor.

[Zer0]

Originally Posted by gtpvette

It's certainly a concern for me, I don't really like where they ended up. The mounts are right at 8" inside and it might be possible to move them out about 4" which would help. To do that I'd need to fill in that dished out area in the crossmember with a top and side plate so there's something to weld the mount to. Why was that dished out like that?? Cylinder head maybe?? Something to chew on this week.

I made a lower mount base plate from 1/4" steel to move my passenger side mount further out. It goes over the dished out area, and is supported with 1/4" thick steel gussets over the dished out area. Maybe this will give you some new ideas. Here is a picture of it when it was tacked up and bolted in.

[Icecreamtruk]

Not trying to start a fire or revive old threads for nothing as I assume you already found a solution to your sway bar problem. But I wonder why everyone swapping in bigger engines (LS and LFX seem more problematic here) get hung up on the front sway bar. You can run the car without a sway bar, and you can make it handle well without one, it will be a matter of having stiffer springs that would essentially offset the extra roll you would get without a bar. As an added bonus it will simplify fab work and reduce weight (no bar, no supports, no endlinks).

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by Erik Dlux

Yeah, read that build 2x. I even posted on there asking about the pcm. One guy in that thread had issues and finally got it to work. Same year, car and trans as his motor. It was a 2015 so I don't get why he got it to work?

So that PCM you have, is it from a Camaro or does it not matter what car? I have a e39 pcm from a 2012 ctv so it would be nice if I could use that. I have no idea of it was auto or manual though.

Searching for a 2015 Camaro with an manual was horrible. I hope I don't have to do similar again.

I talked to the guy at Overkill. He said I can buy hp tuners for personal use and then he can do the tuning thru email for me. Kinda cool as he can tweak things and then I can mess with them also. He also does free tuning whenever you want after the first time, like if you were to change something on the motor.

Not 100% sure but think the PCM was from a Camaro. I know Overkill tunes are pretty popular with the Camaro guys. In the end I'll probably get his E85 tune as I'm plumbed for it now and have good access to it as well.

Originally Posted by Zer0

I made a lower mount base plate from 1/4" steel to move my passenger side mount further out. It goes over the dished out area, and is supported with 1/4" thick steel gussets over the dished out area. Maybe this will give you some new ideas. Here is a picture of it when it was tacked up and bolted in.

If not for the tube,,, this is very close to what I imagine I'd would of ended up with. Just a bit shorter as I used the OEM mount

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

Not trying to start a fire or revive old threads for nothing as I assume you already found a solution to your sway bar problem. But I wonder why everyone swapping in bigger engines (LS and LFX seem more problematic here) get hung up on the front sway bar. You can run the car without a sway bar, and you can make it handle well without one, it will be a matter of having stiffer springs that would essentially offset the extra roll you would get without a bar. As an added bonus it will simplify fab work and reduce weight (no bar, no supports, no endlinks).

You certainly have a point but I think the bar was worth the effort.


I have a buddy who is an SCCA guy and his mantra is 'Big Bar,, Soft Springs'