How-To: Hardwiring Uniden Radar Detector

[ajaxburger]

Hey Everyone, recently embarked on this journey and it was one of the easiest things I've done to my car recently. Writing this so that maybe someone else feels like they can tackle that project that they've been putting off.

My R4 looks nice and tidy tucked away in the upper windshield. Now I just need a cleaner mounting solution.

This same work flow can be applied to hardwiring a dashcam; there's a few threads here that have gone over this with some great information in them and are where I got a lot of mine from:

Thread in question: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152750

There's a member here (@removedonut) that produces his own tap kit for the 3-pin cable that the auto-dimming / HomeLink mirror uses. This, fortunately, brings quite a bit of accessory-only power right to the spot that I wanted to mount my radar detector (left of mirror).

You can either use his premade kit that comes with a USB port installed (https://hachielectronics.myshopify.c...rror-connector) as I did ($25), or buy another cable from Subaru (H501SAJ010, $10) to accomplish this without splicing the factory connection.

The only additional piece you'll need (if you don't want to cut up your detectors power cable) is an RJ11 connector or pre-terminated landline wire. I went the pre-terminated route as this means I won't need to crimp a new head and can simply connect the 12v leads from the mirror tap cable to the correct wires on the RJ11 cable.

In my case, using donut's cable, the yellow lead is + and the black is -. I connected these to the red and green wires, + and - respectively.

Look up a wiring diagram for your detector to be sure but in my case, Pin 2 and 3 were these positions.

Although the Uniden's own power cable is a 6P6C connector (6 position, 6 contacts), the detector only requires two of those for power and an additional bridge to ground for remote mute (if you want it) so you can happily get away with a 6P4C cable as is common for landlines.

I've attached some images so you can see the install, how I connected it and pin orientation for mapping. Pardon my shitty wiring connection, I lost my soldering iron in a move but this is plenty secure until I pick up a new one.

For reference, this is on a '17 BRZ but if you have an auto dimming mirror, this same process applies to all of the Twins; even second gen.

[RickyBobby]

I used the 12V socket behind the glove box with a 6' straight power cord and a Radenso visor mount for my Uniden R3. I have since upgraded to the R4.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=101

I moved the R3 over to my Ford Escape. I don't use it that much with it so I mount it on a sticky dash pad with the cord it came with. Easy to mount and dismount. https://www.amazon.com/BLAU-GRUN-Das...01&sr=8-3&th=1

[ajaxburger]

Originally Posted by RickyBobby

I used the 12V socket behind the glove box with a 6' straight power cord and a Radenso visor mount for my Uniden R3. I have since upgraded to the R4.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...&postcount=101

I moved the R3 over to my Ford Escape. I don't use it that much with it so I mount it on a sticky dash pad with the cord it came with. Easy to mount and dismount. https://www.amazon.com/BLAU-GRUN-Das...01&sr=8-3&th=1

I considered using the 12V socket but am running non-OE footwell lighting and that socket is used up. Ideally, I'll hardwire that light kit as well but one thing at a time on this car. Just finished up sound deadening so I'm taking a bit of a break before I dive into headlight blackouts.