Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by ajcarson11

Thanks!

I've read through a lot of posts thus far and am still trying to determine: Should I be using the MAP sensor that comes with the kit for non-intercooled, or should I be using the OEM map sensor?

Thanks!

OEM sensor

[Dream20b]

Originally Posted by sam69

Soooo do you think I would be better off going for near stock compression and not 10:1 pistons ??

Safety vs Power.

[nmastereal]

Originally Posted by ajcarson11

Thanks!

I've read through a lot of posts thus far and am still trying to determine: Should I be using the MAP sensor that comes with the kit for non-intercooled, or should I be using the OEM map sensor?

Thanks!

Oem Map sensor, others have reported problems with getting timing right on aftermarket map sensors.

Also about the hose you can test fit on the evap sensor once you get it off.

[nmastereal]

Originally Posted by gouldfish

Let me know if that does it for you. I've been struggling with this CEL code for awhile now. My car is currently in the shop and they are having trouble diagnosing the leak. They found a leak, but apparently Sprintex says it's a "known leak" with the supercharger and is nothing out of the ordinary. I am thinking about having the brass fittings put on anyways just to make sure.

After 4 days the light hasnt come back. Looking like resealing the fitting (or replacing) and the check valve has cured my problem. Hope I didnt just jinx myself.

Thanks @whataboutbob

[nmastereal]

Alright guys, problem after problem. Loosing supercharger coolant. From everything I have read in the thread I could have the following:

-Leaky T connection
-Leaky o ring at the core in the supercharger
-Leak somewhere else

Pretty much after installing the intercooler a year ago I saw the water pump developing dried radiator fluid but fluids remained mostly stable. After noticing it at the low line a few weeks ago, i filled it up again but am back down to slightly below the low line.

Questions:
-Could it just be since i touched the natural dried fluid seal on the pump it is needing to redevelop? I will be adding a clamp to the hoses but the seal on the pump itself has always been weak.
-Will check t joint via shop towel test (not a question)
-How can I check if its the core without removing the entire manifold? Are people still against removing the supercharger while keeping the manifold attached?

Other than that I am not seeing any notable drying of coolant at any of the connections. Any other advised testing would be appreciated, will update as I find more.

Update 1: Definitely seeing a power loss. Going to do some data logging tonight. No connections were leaking and pump was running fine. Felt current along the hoses in almost all places. Least felt was hose directly under the pulley but felt it further down the same hose.
Update 2: Unplugged the pump and car felt the same. Current thesis: car is acting normal i am just being paranoid after reading that guys bad core. Feeling like its just the pump and i messed with the seal that accumulated over a very long time. Resealing with dried radiator fluid probably takes alot. Going to order a new pump.
Update 3: Convinced there is a power loss. Waiting on pump to come in today so I can swap that and see if it solves my problems.

[brianhj]

Originally Posted by Dream20b

Okay, So I hit 300/300 on my tune at the wheels on a "Heartbreaker Dyno."

Supposedly I could have had 350-370 on the same dyno on stock compression, but that would be maxing out the engine and then some imo.

300whp?? I had that with the 210 on E85. Or at least very close to it. Maybe 280-285. I don't think building the motor and buying the 335 would be worth a ~15hp bump

I'm gonna go a different route, probably a TVS1320 blower with a small pulley... somewhere around 19 PSI

[Dream20b]

Originally Posted by brianhj

300whp?? I had that with the 210 on E85. Or at least very close to it. Maybe 280-285. I don't think building the motor and buying the 335 would be worth a ~15hp bump

I'm gonna go a different route, probably a TVS1320 blower with a small pulley... somewhere around 19 PSI

remember that I dropped the compression by 3.5 points. you could hit 350 on stock compression, maybe a tad more.

[ajcarson11]

Morning All --

Have a quick question:

Step 5.16 in install mentions:

"Manual Transmission Vehicle: attach brake booster hose supplied to supercharger intake and attach other end to brake booster. Ensure that vacuum check valve supplied with this hose is oriented correctly ('To Motor' arrow on the check valve is installed towards the engine)"

I'm getting prepared for install and notice that I don't have the aforementioned brake booster hose/check valve. However, on the inventory page of the instructions the brake booster hose is listed as 'RHD' (right hand drive?). I'm LHD, so perhaps I don't need the innovate booster hose and I can utilize the stock OEM booster hose which I assume has a built in check valve?

Thanks!

[nmastereal]

Originally Posted by ajcarson11

Morning All --

Have a quick question:

Step 5.16 in install mentions:

"Manual Transmission Vehicle: attach brake booster hose supplied to supercharger intake and attach other end to brake booster. Ensure that vacuum check valve supplied with this hose is oriented correctly ('To Motor' arrow on the check valve is installed towards the engine)"

I'm getting prepared for install and notice that I don't have the aforementioned brake booster hose/check valve. However, on the inventory page of the instructions the brake booster hose is listed as 'RHD' (right hand drive?). I'm LHD, so perhaps I don't need the innovate booster hose and I can utilize the stock OEM booster hose which I assume has a built in check valve?

Thanks!

Is your car manual? If so you need a brake booster hose. What the instructions show is that if you are LHD you have to rotate one part of the hose so that way it lines up to both connections. I know you need a check valve I just dont remember the oem hose. If you take a pic it might help.

[ajcarson11]

Originally Posted by nmastereal

Is your car manual? If so you need a brake booster hose. What the instructions show is that if you are LHD you have to rotate one part of the hose so that way it lines up to both connections. I know you need a check valve I just dont remember the oem hose. If you take a pic it might help.

Thanks!

I am indeed manual.



You can see the OEM hose traced in red, with what I assume is the check-valve surrounded in the light blue box?

The OEM brake booster hose looks like it'll be long enough. And it has a check valve. If the OEM hose is not long enough, do I just need to source a hose that can go from the blue box to the back of manifold?

EDIT: Here is a higher-resolution version of the picture above for more detail: https://s16.postimg.org/okf5380zp/Sc...4_103206_1.png

[brianhj]

Originally Posted by Dream20b

remember that I dropped the compression by 3.5 points. you could hit 350 on stock compression, maybe a tad more.

Right.. I guess I just don't see the point of it all if you're still at 300

[stockysnail]

Torque should really be the number we are looking at not hp.

[brianhj]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

Torque should really be the number we are looking at not hp.

Yeah, that's true

[ajcarson11]

Originally Posted by brianhj

Right.. I guess I just don't see the point of it all if you're still at 300

I agree... The area under the curve is sort of the point of the innovate/sprintex blower. Might as well go centrifugal if you're worried about peak HP.