Oil change after break in?

[lordtakuban]

Here's some info on the factory fill from BobIsTheOilGuy forums:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...60#Post2660460

It features Blackstone Labs reports. Notice that there is a LOT of MOLY added to the FF. Mobil 1 is really light on MOLY. It was likely used to help with break-in. If possible, grab an oil that also contains a high moly count for your first oil change just to be safe. Might be extra over cautious, but couldn't hurt.

I'll be putting in 300V along with a Power Enterprise magnetic filter in a few hundred miles or so (maybe around 2K miles) and have the FF oil analyzed to get a solid baseline. Yes, that will be an expensive oil change. But it will handle any heat thrown its way from autox or regular old fashioned driving as well as giving solid protection. I plan to continue using 300V in the future as well.

[mediumbrown]

Where does it say in the manual that an oil change is REQUIRED after the break-in period?

[blu_]

No where. It's not required at all.

[blu_]

Originally Posted by lordtakuban

It features Blackstone Labs reports. Notice that there is a LOT of MOLY added to the FF. Mobil 1 is really light on MOLY. It was likely used to help with break-in. If possible, grab an oil that also contains a high moly count for your first oil change just to be safe. Might be extra over cautious, but couldn't hurt.

Someone mentioned that the moly in the FF is there to help with mileage during break in. To support this, I did notice my mileage decrease after changing my oil. Hopefully as the engine breaks in more that will change.

See here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...83&postcount=1

[michaelahess]

Originally Posted by lordtakuban

You should return the Royal Purple ASAP and buy some Redline Full synthetic oil. It's Ester based and not crappy oil with good marketing hype like Royal Purple. If you really want to go baller, get some Motul 300V. If you want more budget minded oil that is still really good, get Amsoil. Basically, just about anything is going to be better than Royal Purple. Good luck.

Proof to back this claim? My brother-in-law is a diesel mechanic and he swears by it.

[mediumbrown]

Originally Posted by blu_

No where. It's not required at all.

Thank you, i don't understand the paranoia with having to change the oil immediately after the break-in period... but to each his own!

Personally, i'm going by the recommended interval suggested by the manufacturer based on the driving conditions. Also, i'll definitely take advantage of the Scion Service Boost

[blu_]

Originally Posted by mediumbrown

Thank you, i don't understand the paranoia with having to change the oil immediately after the break-in period... but to each his own!

Personally, i'm going by the recommended interval suggested by the manufacturer based on the driving conditions. Also, i'll definitely take advantage of the Scion Service Boost

It's just something that is probably more relevant on older cars. I don't think its a big deal either way. IN FACT, the dealership I go to only carries, besides the factory synthetic, Valvoline, which has very low Moly levels. So in theory I might be doing my engine more harm than good by changing it early according to the linked post.

Part of the reason I bought this car though is that its basic enough I shouldnt have to worry about this engine as much as my turbo'd cars in the past.

[blu_]

Originally Posted by michaelahess

Proof to back this claim? My brother-in-law is a diesel mechanic and he swears by it.

The Royal Purple debate is never ending. But according to a decent amount of people its an overrated oil compared to what its marketed as. Research it on bobistheoilguy. No offense to your brother, but mechanics all swear by certain products and they usually aren't correct in all of their recommendations. Whether or not its a good oil is beyond me though. I don;t use it because of the criticism I have heard of it, nothing more.

For a DD though, I don't think it really matters that much.

[TRD_86]

Mine at 4k now. I called dealer to request oil change but they said only bring it in at 5k for free oil change maintenance service per manual ! I really want to flush it out now for just the 1st one. Then I will hit 5k in just another 2 weeks ( 1k/2wk driving) !

[blu_]

I don't drive much because I have a short commute. I'm only at 1700 miles after 2+ months.

[trifenix]

I did research on RP and found its supposr to be grade 4 oil...higher than m1. Got good ratings on load bearing test. Im sure if an oil is high level, they should all perform similarly. I tried RP 5w-30 and it actually allowed my engine to rev faster (thinner slicker viscosity?) Than m1. Not sure. It also protected my engine when it overheated twice from constant redlining (hoses blew) I assume oil helps protect the engine in these cases.

I know amsoil is great too but dont see a reason to knock another good oil. I say, Invest in good oil if you plan on tracking or spirited driving and change it often. If you dont hit redline daily...normal oil is perfectly fine.

[xwd]

I used the Motul 8100 X-Lite 0w-30 which is also Ester based. It's a little too early to tell if my mileage has dropped at all, I'm hoping it doesn't.

I changed my oil at 1250 miles but maybe it wasn't needed, who knows.

I changed the oil and filter in my 2012 Wrangler at 500 miles after I saw all the metal deposits other folks were getting in their filters, and mine was no exception. The BRZ I had nothing really.

[philstar]

I just hit my break in mileage

going to change my oil this weekend with Amsoil 0w20 and oem filter.

[CBR600RR]

Any opinions on Quakerstate 100% syn 0w20????