01-21-2019, 04:46 PM | #29 | |
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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01-21-2019, 05:29 PM | #30 |
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Update part is on back order and it's about 2-3 weeks to get in and then schedule for repair. The advisor already has dealt with 2 frs on the recall. The advisor willing to work on charging part only for the TOB.
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01-21-2019, 06:11 PM | #31 | |
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I recall back-in-the-day, I drove this 1948 Chev for over 10 years. My main parts supplier was the local junk yard. So, when something went out (like a fuel pump) I would pull two of them off junk cars. One I would replace the one that had gone bad and I kept the other one in the trunk as a "spare". Guess what? The same thing never went bad the second time - In my basement I still have a used fuel pump for a stovebolt 6 chevy engine, if you are interested - humfrz |
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01-21-2019, 10:30 PM | #32 | |
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In my 60 years of driving cars, I've never had a water pump go bad - However, I've never owned or driven a BMW - humfrz |
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01-21-2019, 10:59 PM | #33 |
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I think Bimmers get new water pumps with every other oil change.
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01-22-2019, 01:23 AM | #34 |
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Water pumps, bah-humbug.
The aftermarket and tuners sure did complicate the cooling of the internal combustion gasoline engine. With the exception of the first year or two, during the 18 years that Ford produced the Model T, Ford didn't install a water pump for the engine. They discovered it ran better without a water pump. Why didn't it overheat? Hint, look at the size of the radiator. Yes, it IS my med time - humfrz |
01-22-2019, 08:01 AM | #35 | |
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Driving down the highway and it started to squeal. Before I could get pulled over it went BANG GRIND BANG. The bearing had let go and the shaft wobbled which totally destroyed the impeller. The whole shaft then shot forward about 6 inches. The problem with that was the rad was only 4 inches away. It was a mess. Unfortunately there was no running to the local wreckers for 58 Chev parts in 1983 and since the internet was still a dream it meant hours on the phone looking for parts. Managed to get a pump from a dealer with old stock but had to have the rad re-cored which took some time. I was very aware of water pumps from that day on.
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01-22-2019, 10:42 AM | #36 |
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I had the water pump give up on my 1960 Willys CJ5 on a Sunday afternoon when I was still 40 miles from home. I pulled into a Chinese restaurant, turned it off and heard a pop then the coolant started draining out the front of the motor. What a mess. I pulled the pump out, took about 20 minutes because I had never done one before, then I went next door to the very conveniently placed Napa and they had a reman in stock. 20 minutes later it was all buttoned up so we ate lunch and continued on our way. It was one of those no harm no foul things but there was all sorts of room in that engine compartment and that old Dauntless 225 V6 was a piece of cake to work on.
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01-22-2019, 11:34 AM | #37 |
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I once took a wheel off and put it back on again.
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01-22-2019, 11:36 AM | #38 |
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For free? It's just weird. I'd want someone who knows what they're doing. The number of built and blown motors is high.
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01-22-2019, 11:47 AM | #39 |
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For free? It's just weird. I'd want someone who knows what they're doing. The number of built and blown motors is high.
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01-22-2019, 12:16 PM | #40 |
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Missed the chance to take pics with the heads off, but still got some with the motor out, since I'm having them do the clutch and TOB while it's apart.
Still a fair amount of life left in the old clutch - that's only 50'ish thousand miles. I'm a little annoyed that they buggered some of the mating surface up on the motor-side (the timing chain cover is clean). Comes from using steel prytools on aluminum. Fortunately, nothing cuts clear across the surface, so I'm thinking it will still get a good seal. If it does leak though, I've brought it up with the service dept, so there's a record of it. |
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01-22-2019, 12:47 PM | #41 | |
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01-22-2019, 12:56 PM | #42 | |
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