BRZ Battery died, when I tried starting it it made a terrible noise.

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by billwot

How can you "over-rev" an engine with an electronic rev-limiter?

You should be able to ounce it off the rev limiter all day long and not do any damage.

Shifting into the wrong gear. Redline in 3rd and then shifting into second instead of 4th for example.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by cmspooner

They ordered all of the parts; and are building it with all new parts. I am going to live with the dealership assembled engine and assume it will have a full warranty on it.

I have had an outback on loan for the last 3 weeks; it's alright. Bad gas mileage and not nearly as fun; but it does the job.

Don't assume before you let them. Make sure it's warrantied very well & then get their warranty agreement in writing on motors that they built. This way if it fails, you can hold them accountable.

They owe you a brand new subaru certified (as in, subaru built, assembled, and certified) long block. Not one they built. Subaru pays them for the part replacement.

So if that's not what they're doing, but building an fa20 for you, you be sure to have the legally binding documentation from them on the engine warranty, otherwise you insist on waiting for a long block to be shipped from Japan.

On phone I am. Therefore, if mistakes I make, Frank Oz blame you should.

[Ross]

Subaru will just supply them a short block and heads most likely. The tech will not be doing anything out the norm of what he should be able to do. As bad as it sounds it is kind of a routine thing at a dealership to do something like that.

[cmspooner]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

When do they think they'll have all the parts and get it back to you??

I'm hoping gaskets come in this week; if so, I'll have it by the end of the week.

[cmspooner]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

Don't assume before you let them. Make sure it's warrantied very well & then get their warranty agreement in writing on motors that they built. This way if it fails, you can hold them accountable.

They owe you a brand new subaru certified (as in, subaru built, assembled, and certified) long block. Not one they built. Subaru pays them for the part replacement.

So if that's not what they're doing, but building an fa20 for you, you be sure to have the legally binding documentation from them on the engine warranty, otherwise you insist on waiting for a long block to be shipped from Japan.

On phone I am. Therefore, if mistakes I make, Frank Oz blame you should.

I will confirm the warranty when I check up with them on Wednesday.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by cmspooner

I will confirm the warranty when I check up with them on Wednesday.

Yeah, in writing.

[cmspooner]

Got the BRZ back today. It seems that all replacements under warranty are only covered under the standard 60,000 mile power-train warranty.

I missed it so much!

[HunterGreene]

Been almost a month--still going strong?

[extrashaky]

Originally Posted by Dipstik-sportech

Judging by that damage that was over revved by possibly someone missing a shift..... No way that happened at idle, we're not getting the real story

I'm coming to this story late, but I wanted to point out that there are other ways a valve can hit a piston besides over-revving. I had a TR6 that once that had a valve spring break and take out the retaining clip at the top of the valve stem, allowing it to drop right into the cylinder. This was under light acceleration and was nowhere near the rev limit. The valve made contact because the part holding it in place failed, not because of interference while over-revving.

Obviously this engine is set up differently, but the first thing I thought when I saw that bit of ejected bearing way back on the first page was that there was a catastrophic failure in the head that allowed the valves to travel too far. That could certainly happen from a cold start.

My gut tells me the OP did absolutely nothing wrong here and just had a freak failure. Or at least I HOPE it was a freak failure.

[cmspooner]

Well it started making noises again and shaking;so it's back in the shop. I think it has to do with the Right Exhaust AVCS. I don't think they touched the timing system and the last code I got was p000a. I also got a coupe of codes a few weeks ago for what they said was the oil control valve.