Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[toast]

Did my install today. Stuck on literally the last thing - I can't find the MAP harness. Anyone happen to know what color the connector is on the end? It must be under there somewhere but vision is highly limited.

[B T]

Driver's side rear end of the supercharger, black end I believe

[toast]

That's where I was looking. Turns out it comes off the front harness that goes to the throttle; it was sticking up against the underbelly of the supercharger.

Finished everything up last night and turned the ignition to ON to check for fuel leaks. Rails were fine, but there was a super fine stream of fuel (about .1mm) shooting out of the banjo bolt fitting to the frame rail. It was so small and perfect that I actually thought it was a single piece of spider silk until I put my hand in it.

A head's up to anyone doing a fresh install. The machined banjo fitting for the high pressure fuel pump was not machined perfectly in my instance. Holding the fitting vertically (with the fuel line connection at the bottom) there was a v-shaped cut at 3 and 9 o'clock in both sides of the face of the fitting. It was a little over a thousandth deep, but it was enough that no amount of torque on the bolt would make the crush washer seal it (you're also threading into aluminum so you can't go very high). I wound up putting a piece of 400 grit sandpaper on my granite block and rubbing the face of the fitting in a figure 8 for about 60-90 seconds on each side before the mark went away.

Also, the directions tell you to remove the lower 2 bolts of the vertical radiator support rod in order to loosen the support bar to fit the filter housing. They don't say to put them back but I would think if you don't you will have things rattling like crazy.

[toast]

Also, the LTR coolant bottle - should it be at 'Full' when running or when the car is off? After a few start ups I have added enough that when the car is off it is sitting at full but when running the level drops down close to the bottom of the bottle.

[BirdTRD]

So after <500 miles on the new belt, the symptom returned. Obviously something is causing this to happen, I suspect one of the idler pulleys is cattywampus or the bearing in one is failing causing the belt to walk forward.

[86fun]

Originally Posted by toast

Also, the LTR coolant bottle - should it be at 'Full' when running or when the car is off? After a few start ups I have added enough that when the car is off it is sitting at full but when running the level drops down close to the bottom of the bottle.

Full when off, it goes down when on, but still on the scale. This is how my car/install is anyway.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by toast

Also, the LTR coolant bottle - should it be at 'Full' when running or when the car is off? After a few start ups I have added enough that when the car is off it is sitting at full but when running the level drops down close to the bottom of the bottle.

It's a self-bleeding system. Top off if under full at cold and not running.

[toast]

Still in the process of dialing in the tune with Zach, but this thing is a hoot so far and I've only used about 40% throttle.

Couple things I've noticed after climbing all over the car post install:

Had a pretty terrible rattling sound when pulling away from a stop. My car is particularly bad with the throttle deadband after a reflash so things were not exactly smooth as I relearn how to drive it, but the rattling was bad enough that I thought I dropped a wrench down on the metal underbody panel. Turns out it was the stamped metal piece that covers up the back of the rotor opening in the casting. It has a stupid 1/2" stub sticking out that is really close to the aluminum piping for the AC line. I could see marks on the piping, so when the engine flopped around on the mounts this would rub. I bend the stub away from the line with pliers and massaged the AC line by hand to get extra clearance.

The coolant pipe that runs vertically off the throttlebody is pinned right against the AC compressor. That seems less than ideal. I'm going to loosen the four throttlebody bolts to see if I can't move/rotate the throttlebody a bit to avoid this.

When the car is running the stock tensioning pulley bounces periodically - does anyone else see this? I'm just wondering if I should put a new one in there.

The Edelbrock idler pulley has about .5mm of axial slop. It isn't a lot, but none of the other stock pulley have any slop. Others' experience?

[BertoFT]

Originally Posted by toast

When the car is running the stock tensioning pulley bounces periodically - does anyone else see this? I'm just wondering if I should put a new one in there.

I've noticed this as well, although I didn't check l to see if the tensioner pulley bounced before the install. It isn't making any noise, nor have I had any issues with the EBSC.

Sent from my SM-G9600 using Tapatalk

[B T]

my idler pulley jumps a bit as well, have not noticed slop in the supercharger pulley though.

[BertoFT]

This link shows the tensioner pulley bouncing a bit, similar to mine. Some forum members are saying it's normal, and no one is speaking to the contrary. I think I'll be leaving mine alone.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127195

Sent from my SM-G9600 using Tapatalk

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by toast

Still in the process of dialing in the tune with Zach, but this thing is a hoot so far and I've only used about 40% throttle.

Couple things I've noticed after climbing all over the car post install:

Had a pretty terrible rattling sound when pulling away from a stop. My car is particularly bad with the throttle deadband after a reflash so things were not exactly smooth as I relearn how to drive it, but the rattling was bad enough that I thought I dropped a wrench down on the metal underbody panel. Turns out it was the stamped metal piece that covers up the back of the rotor opening in the casting. It has a stupid 1/2" stub sticking out that is really close to the aluminum piping for the AC line. I could see marks on the piping, so when the engine flopped around on the mounts this would rub. I bend the stub away from the line with pliers and massaged the AC line by hand to get extra clearance.

The coolant pipe that runs vertically off the throttlebody is pinned right against the AC compressor. That seems less than ideal. I'm going to loosen the four throttlebody bolts to see if I can't move/rotate the throttlebody a bit to avoid this.

When the car is running the stock tensioning pulley bounces periodically - does anyone else see this? I'm just wondering if I should put a new one in there.

The Edelbrock idler pulley has about .5mm of axial slop. It isn't a lot, but none of the other stock pulley have any slop. Others' experience?

Just throwing this out there, but would things like stiffer engine mounts and the fluidampr harmonic dampener thingy help with something like this?

[toast]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Just throwing this out there, but would things like stiffer engine mounts and the fluidampr harmonic dampener thingy help with something like this?

I'm going to start with a transmission mount insert. I'd like less slop but don't want more NVH.

Some pics of what I was talking about:

This is after I bent the black tab away from the AC line. Tough to see the marks in the AC line but you can feel them with your fingernail.


Vertical coolant line is right up against AC compressor.

[toast]

Has anyone connected the LTR pump to another switched current source? Car is going to be sitting for a week in freezing weather in an airport parking lot and I don't want the pump running every time the car does a pressure check on the EVAP system and come back to a dead battery.