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06-13-2019, 01:45 AM | #1 |
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Cusco rear upper control arm
Hello everybody, i'm about to buy them, any advice?
I read they allow 15mm of adjustment over stock, is it enough to reduce rear negative camber from drop (let's say to 0 for drifting purpose)? For those who have them, any fitment issue? Thank you! Inviato dal mio LG-M320 utilizzando Tapatalk |
06-13-2019, 11:13 AM | #2 | |
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Quote:
http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/cusc...e-lca-100.html |
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06-13-2019, 12:38 PM | #3 |
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UCAs cost more. As LCA is sufficient to gain rear camber adjustment, it's what most get for these cars. Not sure of reasons why UCAs at premium cost will be better choice for that.
For drifting purpose .. better just use cheap not wide tires with high threadwear for limited grip and longer running .. and to further limit grip (if drifting with limited NA power) you can pump much higher pressures in rear. Though imho front will be that will limit you most for drifting. Preferably to have very high front negative camber eg. -4 or -5 for drifting, to get even contact on countersteering outer front tire. Another limiting factor, again in front - small max steering angle on these cars (due limited clearance from wide boxer layout engine). Maybe some megan racing end links will help for that, if budget is tight for true drifting front suspension such as from wisefab or parts shop max or fdf raceshop angle kits. And then limit of stock lack of NA power. Imho not worth to bother with serious flashy drifting at high angles and lot of smoke on these cars without high budget to redo suspension and add (forced induction) power. They excel for HPDE track use, better go with that as hobby. |
06-13-2019, 01:49 PM | #4 |
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I read multiple times that ruca adjustments doesn't affect toe significantly and this is a big win to me cause i'd like to be able to set camber at home or at the track by feel, take note of setting (mm) and then make my own presets for hpde and drifting
I've asked about 0 camber cause it's the most extreme setting i'd like to try, if i can get there with the car lowered let's say 50mm then i'll know for sure that i wont need to spend money again (at least for rear camber ) Inviato dal mio LG-M320 utilizzando Tapatalk |
06-13-2019, 03:11 PM | #6 |
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If you get threaded adjusters for both lower control arms you can learn how much to turn each to affect camber and not toe or change toe and not camber by practicing in the garage for example 2 flats on the rear lca, 1 flat on the 'toe' lca = a camber change.
Limited access to the upper control arm will be the disadvantage when trying to adjust at the track. |
The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | churchx (06-13-2019) |
06-13-2019, 03:41 PM | #7 | ||
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Quote:
I mean, let's assume i'm at -3 degree camber 0.1 total toe in and willing to bring camber up to -2...do you think toe will end up to be negative? Quote:
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06-13-2019, 03:44 PM | #8 |
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The toe arm attaches to the front of the knuckle, so increasing negative camber will toe it out. Positive camber will toe it in. I don't know how much a degree will change it. I have toe plates and a camber gauge so I just use those.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to NoHaveMSG For This Useful Post: | maregt (06-13-2019), strat61caster (06-13-2019) |
06-13-2019, 03:50 PM | #9 |
An adjustable toe arm is IMO worth it either way. I don't like the stock one.
Adjusting rear alignment is a little bit of a pain but it just takes some patience. - Andrew |
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