follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Delicious Tuning
Register Garage Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing

Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-07-2014, 10:39 AM   #1
transition
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ
Location: Earth
Posts: 206
Thanks: 43
Thanked 77 Times in 47 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Rubbing after an alignment w/ RCE Yellows?

So i got an alignment last week and i'm now for the first time noticing that a sudden hard turn left is generating what sounds like rubbing when driving on the stock wheels/tires. I never heard the sound previously when on my other wheels (17x8 235/40/17 +35). I was just prepping for a long road trip so that's why i'm back on the stock wheels. Suspension changes are only RCE Yellows on stock struts and Whiteline camber bolts up front. I'm not hearing the noise anywhere except what seems to be the driver front wheel. A sudden hard turn right isn't generating the same noise.

transition is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 01:34 PM   #2
enjoyminutemaid
Senior Member
 
enjoyminutemaid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: Subaru BRZ Limited WRB Manual
Location: RI/MA
Posts: 212
Thanks: 185
Thanked 46 Times in 29 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Rear camber look wonky. Doesn't make much sense as to why they would have such a big difference from left to right. If car is rolling hard and you have that much negative camber on the right, that might be the source of the sound.
enjoyminutemaid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:18 PM   #3
7thgear
i'm sorry, what?
 
7thgear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: Canada
Location: I rock a beat harder than you can beat it with rocks
Posts: 4,399
Thanks: 357
Thanked 2,506 Times in 1,268 Posts
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
your SAI is 1 degree different left to right, this is odd, and your caster is off by a little left to right as well

something was not aligned properly.
__________________
don't you think if I was wrong, I'd know it?
7thgear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:23 PM   #4
transition
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ
Location: Earth
Posts: 206
Thanks: 43
Thanked 77 Times in 47 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7thgear View Post
your SAI is 1 degree different left to right, this is odd, and your caster is off by a little left to right as well

something was not aligned properly.
Huh, so apparently the alignment guy did more harm then good. Still can't find the source of the rubbing sound. Took off all 4 wheels to inspect and no obvious wear points.
transition is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:25 PM   #5
7thgear
i'm sorry, what?
 
7thgear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: Canada
Location: I rock a beat harder than you can beat it with rocks
Posts: 4,399
Thanks: 357
Thanked 2,506 Times in 1,268 Posts
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
is this your first ever alignment on the FRS or have you done some before? Same shop? Do you have previous print outs?
__________________
don't you think if I was wrong, I'd know it?
7thgear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:27 PM   #6
transition
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ
Location: Earth
Posts: 206
Thanks: 43
Thanked 77 Times in 47 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7thgear View Post
is this your first ever alignment on the FRS or have you done some before? Same shop? Do you have previous print outs?
First alignment. The alignment was done by a one man shop that only does alignments for around 10 years. He had a hunter alignment machine although i guess that doesn't do you any good if you don't know what you're doing.
transition is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:34 PM   #7
supramkivtt2jz
PROUD OF BOXER
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: Raven FR-S
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 668
Thanks: 221
Thanked 356 Times in 169 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoyminutemaid View Post
Rear camber look wonky. Doesn't make much sense as to why they would have such a big difference from left to right. If car is rolling hard and you have that much negative camber on the right, that might be the source of the sound.
The cars are like this off the factory floor.

Im at -1.8 LR, -2.8 RR
__________________
supramkivtt2jz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:39 PM   #8
transition
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ
Location: Earth
Posts: 206
Thanks: 43
Thanked 77 Times in 47 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by supramkivtt2jz View Post
The cars are like this off the factory floor.

Im at -1.8 LR, -2.8 RR
How about the SAI? Is that within spec?
transition is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 03:02 PM   #9
supramkivtt2jz
PROUD OF BOXER
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: Raven FR-S
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 668
Thanks: 221
Thanked 356 Times in 169 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by transition View Post
How about the SAI? Is that within spec?
I dont have a print out so i couldnt even begin to guess.
__________________
supramkivtt2jz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 03:14 PM   #10
brz7400
Senior Member
 
brz7400's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: Subaru BRZ
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 138
Thanks: 84
Thanked 30 Times in 22 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
maybe your right side camber bolt was not tightened enough?
i have oem crash bolt and the torque spec on them were pretty high like 130 ft lb or something, i remember working the torque wrench wondering when it would click.
not sure of torque spec on whiteline, but i assume it should be high to keep it in place as well.
brz7400 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 03:27 PM   #11
transition
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ
Location: Earth
Posts: 206
Thanks: 43
Thanked 77 Times in 47 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by brz7400 View Post
maybe your right side camber bolt was not tightened enough?
i have oem crash bolt and the torque spec on them were pretty high like 130 ft lb or something, i remember working the torque wrench wondering when it would click.
not sure of torque spec on whiteline, but i assume it should be high to keep it in place as well.
I'm going to throw the other wheels/tires on the car to see if the sound still exists. Otherwise i'm getting another alignment this friday.
transition is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 04:01 PM   #12
darthwong1138
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: Raven FR-S
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 71
Thanks: 17
Thanked 21 Times in 10 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoyminutemaid View Post
Rear camber look wonky. Doesn't make much sense as to why they would have such a big difference from left to right. If car is rolling hard and you have that much negative camber on the right, that might be the source of the sound.
Every lowered FRS/BRZ i have seen has this problem. Its always the right side that has more camber too.
darthwong1138 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 04:03 PM   #13
TrqlessWonder
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Drives: 2014 FR-S
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 287
Thanks: 127
Thanked 148 Times in 93 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by transition View Post
I'm going to throw the other wheels/tires on the car to see if the sound still exists. Otherwise i'm getting another alignment this friday.

That alignment doesn't actually look too bad. The rear camber looks weird, but he doesn't have much he can do with that, unless you bought parts specifically for him to install to correct the rear camber. Otherwise, you can only adjust toe back there.

While typing out a much longer reply, I did remember something, and am starting to think it might be something for you to look into. My first ever autocross with this particular car was a couple weeks ago, in the rain. So, one run, I brain farted and didn't turn off the traction and stability control. Result? Well, I didn't spin, and I was slower, and at just about every turn that required any bravery to speak of, lots of DSC/TC intervention. Noisy, grinding/rubbing/scrubbing noises as the brakes ruined my run. The bonus? It being a counter-clockwise course, the intervention was much more severe when turning left. My alignment isn't that far off from yours, but my car isn't lowered.

Outside of that, put the factory wheels back on, jack up that corner and turn the wheel to full lock and see what it *might* contact if it were to. Car being lowered, and the stock wheels/offset could combine to put the wheel/tire enough farther inboard to contact something. Then look for a shiny spot if it's metal, and scuffs/scrapes if it's plastic.

In any event, save your money on the alignment for right now, particularly if it drives straight. You'll be extra irritated if you go and spend money on a good alignment (his place, or anywhere else), and it doesnt fix it. Solutions are much more effective when they are used on the problems they are intended for. No amount of alignment change is going to make the stability control stop interfering, you have to press the button for that. If you want the rear camber corrected, get a set of offset bushings or new LCAs.

tl;dr - Find that spot where you find yourself needing to yank hard left, and go there. Make the noises happen. Then - Turn off the TC/DSC, repeat test. I think it's the nannies interfering, not the alignment. More likely that the springs were installed incorrectly at this point.
__________________
-Mike
#24 CS/CSR
TrqlessWonder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 04:20 PM   #14
transition
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: BRZ
Location: Earth
Posts: 206
Thanks: 43
Thanked 77 Times in 47 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrqlessWonder View Post
That alignment doesn't actually look too bad. The rear camber looks weird, but he doesn't have much he can do with that, unless you bought parts specifically for him to install to correct the rear camber. Otherwise, you can only adjust toe back there.

While typing out a much longer reply, I did remember something, and am starting to think it might be something for you to look into. My first ever autocross with this particular car was a couple weeks ago, in the rain. So, one run, I brain farted and didn't turn off the traction and stability control. Result? Well, I didn't spin, and I was slower, and at just about every turn that required any bravery to speak of, lots of DSC/TC intervention. Noisy, grinding/rubbing/scrubbing noises as the brakes ruined my run. The bonus? It being a counter-clockwise course, the intervention was much more severe when turning left. My alignment isn't that far off from yours, but my car isn't lowered.

Outside of that, put the factory wheels back on, jack up that corner and turn the wheel to full lock and see what it *might* contact if it were to. Car being lowered, and the stock wheels/offset could combine to put the wheel/tire enough farther inboard to contact something. Then look for a shiny spot if it's metal, and scuffs/scrapes if it's plastic.

In any event, save your money on the alignment for right now, particularly if it drives straight. You'll be extra irritated if you go and spend money on a good alignment (his place, or anywhere else), and it doesnt fix it. Solutions are much more effective when they are used on the problems they are intended for. No amount of alignment change is going to make the stability control stop interfering, you have to press the button for that. If you want the rear camber corrected, get a set of offset bushings or new LCAs.

tl;dr - Find that spot where you find yourself needing to yank hard left, and go there. Make the noises happen. Then - Turn off the TC/DSC, repeat test. I think it's the nannies interfering, not the alignment. More likely that the springs were installed incorrectly at this point.
Thanks for the reply.

I always drive with all assists off so this shouldn't be the issue. I haven't tried the pedal dance yet.

I've taken off all four wheels multiple times now - haven't found anything yet. And i am on stock wheels / tires right now. I'm going to go back to my aftermarket wheels to see if i hear the rubbing noise as i never heard the sound before i went back to stock wheels. I just used some crayons to mark the inside of my front tires to see if it is actually rub that i've missed.

Will update again after switching to other wheel setup.
transition is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How much rubbing is too much rubbing? Pokeguyjai Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing 20 12-10-2013 08:04 PM
FS: RCE Yellows + Koni Yellows ***SOLD*** raul Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 0 10-22-2013 01:14 PM
Feeler: RCE Yellows + Koni Yellows *PRE-ASSEMBLED* raul Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 0 08-09-2013 03:22 PM
RCE Yellows + Koni Yellows + Whiteline Camber Adjustment Bushings raul Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing 15 05-24-2013 08:33 AM
Rubbing sound? Mo707 Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing 3 01-15-2013 11:06 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.