Suspension Review: Race Comp Yellow Springs

[cycleboy]

Just got my alignment done after RCE Yellows & SPL LCA install

Didn't put crash bolts in as of now.

Ft camber: -0.5 / -0.3
Ft caster: 5.4 / 5.9
Ft toe: 0 / 0

Rr camber: -1.5 / -1.4
Rr toe: 1/32" / 1/32"

A couple of things about the spring install instructions:

1. The rear bump stops in the online and printed instructions are conical on one side and flat on the other. Mine were conical on both sides. The fronts matched the instructions. There is also no way to push them into the dust covers enough so the protruding section goes in the groove in the cover. I tried!
2. There isn't a clear indication that the fronts get the tighter coils at bottom and rears at the top. The pics show it but there's not an idiot proof "this side up".
3. Both front and rear had black soft plastic adhered to part of them. This isn't in the install pics so I started to peel it off. I realized it was stuck pretty good, like it was meant to stay on. So I left it on there.

Might help if these were added to the instructions.

I'll find out tomorrow how they feel on the open road!

[cycleboy]

One more thing, my install time was nearly 7 hours. 1.5 for the fronts, the rest for the rear. The problem was I needed to bench press the LCA enough to get the bolts through the holes. This was VERY hard to do by myself. I finally succeeded by putting the bolt through the hub first, then strut, then pushing like hell to get the sway bar attached. That then made the inboard end of the LCA close enough that with another big struggle I got that bolt in.

If I'd only had a second jack to lift the arm with, which I learned later was a good way to go.

I've been sore all over for most of this week!

[Racecomp Engineering]

I commend you on taking on this project. We will for certain look into the bump stop things you mentioned.

As for the black liner on the springs being removed, that wasn't good to do as thats there for a reason. Your choice to remove makes no sense at all.

As for the spring orientation not being "idiot proof" we dont intend for this install to be done by just anyone. This can be a DIY install but only if one has sufficient experience at doing so. The Racecomp writing on the springs IS the clear indication of the orientation of the springs as is just about 99% of ALL lowering springs on the market in the last 25 years.

I will say it here, as I have said many times in the past, NOT everyone is cut out for doing installation work on automobiles. YES, some things are but many things are not. We always suggest that a buyer take the car and allow a ASE certified Subaru tech install anything suspension or brake related.

WITH THAT SAID…….yes we will take a good look at our instructions and try to add many extra bits of detail to ensure that if someone is in this situation again they will have more indications as to how to install the springs.

I do still stand by our suggestion of having a certified Subaru tech install any suspension or brake part as its critical to safety.

Myles

[Burrcold]

I see that there are recommended alignment settings, but if my car is just a regular daily driver would it be okay to stick with the OEM alignment specs? Also can the OEM alignment specs even be achieved without the crash bolts and an adjustable rear LCA?

[Bergen23]

Originally Posted by Burrcold

I see that there are recommended alignment settings, but if my car is just a regular daily driver would it be okay to stick with the OEM alignment specs? Also can the OEM alignment specs even be achieved without the crash bolts and an adjustable rear LCA?

Probably not. The springs will change the geometry of the suspension, but by how much, I'm not sure. I needed rear LCAs and I have camber bolts being shipped to be right now to give me a bit more front camber adjustment.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Burrcold

I see that there are recommended alignment settings, but if my car is just a regular daily driver would it be okay to stick with the OEM alignment specs? Also can the OEM alignment specs even be achieved without the crash bolts and an adjustable rear LCA?

Up front you'll be fine. In the rear you will have a little more rear camber than OEM, but nothing to be worried about.

I do recommend the OEM front camber bolt as it's super cheap and you get just a little bump in front camber to make a noticeable handling difference without getting remotely close to where tire wear becomes an issue.

- andy

[Bergen23]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Up front you'll be fine. In the rear you will have a little more rear camber than OEM, but nothing to be worried about.

I do recommend the OEM front camber bolt as it's super cheap and you get just a little bump in front camber to make a noticeable handling difference without getting remotely close to where tire wear becomes an issue.

- andy

Speaking of tire wear, on the FR-S, what would be the "limit" for camber before tire wear is an issue. I realize all situations are different, but could you give a rough estimate?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Bergen23

Speaking of tire wear, on the FR-S, what would be the "limit" for camber before tire wear is an issue. I realize all situations are different, but could you give a rough estimate?

It does depend on the type of driving...if you've got a long highway commute vs. one with backroads or city driving. But generally -1.5 will not give you problems at all...and up to -2.0 is usually fine. Past that you start making a little bit of a compromise. The key is keeping toe at 0 or very minimal.

Consider how much camber these cars (and others) run from the factory in the rear...

- Andrew

[Bergen23]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

It does depend on the type of driving...if you've got a long highway commute vs. one with backroads or city driving. But generally -1.5 will not give you problems at all...and up to -2.0 is usually fine. Past that you start making a little bit of a compromise. The key is keeping toe at 0 or very minimal.

Consider how much camber these cars (and others) run from the factory in the rear...

- Andrew

Cheers Andrew. I'm around -2 all around and am considering a bit more due to offset and tire size issues. I'll keep that in mind.

[Burrcold]

Originally Posted by Bergen23

Probably not. The springs will change the geometry of the suspension, but by how much, I'm not sure. I needed rear LCAs and I have camber bolts being shipped to be right now to give me a bit more front camber adjustment.

Did you go with the RCE Yellows? What LCA did you buy?

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Up front you'll be fine. In the rear you will have a little more rear camber than OEM, but nothing to be worried about.

I do recommend the OEM front camber bolt as it's super cheap and you get just a little bump in front camber to make a noticeable handling difference without getting remotely close to where tire wear becomes an issue.

- andy

Thanks! So the stock alignment settings are still okay to use? I only ask because I've lowered many cars in the past and always tried to achieve the original alignment specs.

[Bergen23]

Originally Posted by Burrcold

Did you go with the RCE Yellows? What LCA did you buy?

I didn't get springs, went with coils. I'm running the Megan Racing LCA and I'm quite happy with it.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Burrcold

Did you go with the RCE Yellows? What LCA did you buy?


Thanks! So the stock alignment settings are still okay to use? I only ask because I've lowered many cars in the past and always tried to achieve the original alignment specs.

They are okay to use. A little more front camber from that OEM bolt is just nice to have.

- Andrew

[D_Thissen]

I have 1.2* camber in the front (using whiteline camber bolts in the top hole) 0 toe in the front. 1.1* left rear, 1.5* right rear and 1.4mm toe in in the rear.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Since this seems to be the catch all RCE Yellow thread, I'll ask here. I know the yellows work with both stock and Bilstein's, but I was wondering what @Racecomp Engineering believes has the better damping curve for the yellows' 4.5k spring rate, stock or Bilsteins (specifically in the front)?

All I can gather after hours of reading is both are great, but I assume one has to have an advantage over the other; and, if so, why? I'm not concerned about redampening the Bilsteins, but out of the box, are they better suited for the RCE Yellows? I would venture to think they're a bit over dampened for 4.5k.

@Racecomp Engineering, any input on this? Yellows, better on stock or Bilsteins? I already broke an axle, so I'm looking at higher ride height spring options.